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  1. #1
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    Moving batteries (lithium install)

    This should be fairly simple but you folks have been good at spotting errors so here's my plan.

    I found 3 Lion Energy UT1300's (105AH) at a screaming good deal. My goal is to run our generator as little as possible. We only have a 120W portable solar panel, and will likely do a fixed system someday, but batteries first.

    A new charger is in order, and a beefy one will cut my recharge time. I'm seeing an 80A Progressive unit that will only pull 1300W from the AC side of life. My main issue is that GD used #6 wire from my 55A factory charger to the batteries. #6 tops out at 50A, no way it will handle 60 or 80! That cable runs under the pass through to the disconnect and then back under the wall to the front compartments and the batteries. Only a few things attach to 12V up in front (front legs, solar input, a single light). That means my disconnect really does shut down the rig. No drain while in storage.

    My solution is to move the batteries over by the charger. (behind the pass through wall, behind my electrical panel, right next to my EMS seems like a good spot) This will also but the lithiums into a heated space, which is nice for charging below freezing. This will also let me use some #4 wire between a new charger and batteries and 12V panel. Everything else will be happy with the existing wire. Add a fuse, disconnect, manage the physical space and I'm done!

    So what have I forgotten???
    Rick

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  2. #2
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    I assume you will reuse that #6 wire that is there to reconnect the loads that are live with the disconnect off?

    Check how the factory wired your ground connection and figure out what you want to do. My factory ground wiring job was awful and undersized in more spots that just at the battery I know you said you will use #4 wire, just saying you should ensure it is completely adequate on the wiring that you arent replacing.

    If you using 3 batteries, I assume you are looking into dry camping. Might be worthwhile to get some type of battery monitor. The Victron BMV-712 seems pretty popular and looks like a good product.

    I'm sure people with more experience in the solar area will you give you some other ideas.

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickLight View Post
    My solution is to move the batteries over by the charger. (behind the pass through wall, behind my electrical panel, right next to my EMS seems like a good spot) This will also but the lithiums into a heated space, which is nice for charging below freezing. This will also let me use some #4 wire between a new charger and batteries and 12V panel. Everything else will be happy with the existing wire. Add a fuse, disconnect, manage the physical space and I'm done!

    So what have I forgotten???
    Be careful how you reconnect the loads that feed from the breakers in the front storage compartment. There are a couple of connections that should always remain connected even when the master disconnect is off. Primarily the trailer brakes but also your LP gas detector.
    Rob, Chris and fur baby Maya - Follow us at rctravels.rmcd.ca
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  4. #4
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    I put 2 lithium in the passthru. Changed up the wiring some.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 317RST DC Wiring rev2020-02.pdf  
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
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  5. #5
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by KamFlyer View Post
    Be careful how you reconnect the loads that feed from the breakers in the front storage compartment. There are a couple of connections that should always remain connected even when the master disconnect is off. Primarily the trailer brakes but also your LP gas detector.
    Some pretty good discussion in the thread titled "All The Stuff On The Battery Side Of The Battery Switch".

    Of particular note... If you have a Schwinteck slide, that controller, as well as the leveling controller are likely on the battery side of the switch. Break away and power from the truck are also there. LP/CO detector is powered by the main fuse panel on mine.

    I'm working on fixing all that mess now. In mine it looks like I may be able to pull out the #6 wire and pull in a bigger one to the front bay. Something else I've noticed in poking around is that the #6 wire from the converter/charger actually goes up to the fuse panel where it splits off and goes back to the battery. This adds about 15ft of wire to the charging side in the stock setup.

    I'm also putting in a battery monitor. Victron 702 was my choice. Even if they were cheap you have a lot of $ in batteries so I would want to keep an eye on them.

  6. #6
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    Yes, I have a battery monitor. One of my first mods, as with mapping my parasitic loads. Several times we've done 5 days with 4 people on 300AH of LA. (I've also killed my LA)

    My slide is off the 12v panel as is the LP but I'll have to confirm my slide controller. Seems nothing is universal or simple in RV construction!

    That battery side thread keeps growing! So glad I don't have most of those issues.

    Looks like I might have to bypass my old disconnect. Brakes are nothing to accidentally disconnect! I'm 'sure' I would have thought of that without you folks, but at least 3/4 through the process. Thanks!

    So I'm seeing a bus bar off the + for both the existing line (brake, truck, solar) and a new disconnect. Then a fuse, then the panel.
    Rick

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  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    Where did you get the deal on the batteries? I’m interested in buy a couple.

    2018 F-250 6.7L Leveled, 35’s.
    2019 Imagine 2500RL, 640w Solar, Lion UT1300s, 3000w Inverter
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  8. #8
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    https://www.rnrrv.com/
    But the show price is long gone. They had a limited stock as well. You might check locally, they aren't on Amazon.
    Rick

    2019 Reflection 150 273MK
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  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up.

    2018 F-250 6.7L Leveled, 35’s.
    2019 Imagine 2500RL, 640w Solar, Lion UT1300s, 3000w Inverter
    CRE3000, Sumosprings

  10. #10
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    Costco has them for 699 online right now.

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