Breakaway Switch to Connect or Re-connect?

**first5th** · 03-03-2020, 06:45 PM

When I was attempting to re-connect to the 5th wheel for some reason I was having issues getting the Pull Rite Super Slide hitch to engage or lock. I ended up pushing the unit back a couple inches before finally getting it to engage. Anyway I went to the dealer to explain the isssue and the shop technician advised to always pull the trailer breakaway switch anytime connecting or re-connecting to insure trailer doesn't move. He went on to say to leave the breakaway switch pulled when trailer is parked. I thought is partly a good idea when connecting and re-connecting but what about always. Any thoughts on this tactic?

**GeoffnCheri** · 03-03-2020, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by first5th

When I was attempting to re-connect to the 5th wheel for some reason I was having issues getting the Pull Rite Super Slide hitch to engage or lock. I ended up pushing the unit back a couple inches before finally getting it to engage. Anyway I went to the dealer to explain the isssue and the shop technician advised to always pull the trailer breakaway switch anytime connecting or re-connecting to insure trailer doesn't move. He went on to say to leave the breakaway switch pulled when trailer is parked. I thought is partly a good idea when connecting and re-connecting but what about always. Any thoughts on this tactic?

I don't know if it is a good idea or not. We have a Pullrite Superglide but have not experienced the issue you stated. We chock our tires prior to unhitching and leave them in place when hitching. As part of our process, chocking the tires is one of the first things we do prior to unhitching and one of the last things we do after hitching up. I have never had to engage the breakaway switch to hookup or disconnect. If it works for you and gives you peace of mind I see no problems. Just make sure to reconnect the breakaway before departure.

Enjoy

**jkwilson** · 03-03-2020, 07:41 PM

The battery is powering the brake magnets when the switch is pulled. Battery will be dead in no time, and I doubt it does the magnets any favors.

**backtrack2015** · 03-03-2020, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by jkwilson

The battery is powering the brake magnets when the switch is pulled. Battery will be dead in no time, and I doubt it does the magnets any favors.

In addition, I believe the trailer has to actually move a short distance before the brakes will engage anyway.

**mntbikejack** · 03-04-2020, 07:12 AM

I have the Pullrite Superglide and had the same issues during hitch & unhitch. The cure was to remove the paint on the pin with a wire brush and liberally coat it with DuPont non stick dry teflon spray before hitching. WD40 works also but leaves a sticky mess. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wouldn't use the breakaway switch. I do hold the break controller after hitching for a pull test. When hitching it really does not need that much pressure when lubricated.

**JCR GD** · 03-04-2020, 07:34 AM

Do Not pull breakaway while parked. Full battery power going to brakes and possibly will over heat wiring (not designed for long periods of time) and will kill the battery very quickly.

As mentioned above the wheels have to rotate slightly before the brakes will lock so you are much better off just using wheel chocks.

Edit: The hitch should work without pushing the rig any distance. It needs to be "fixed"

**Canyonlight** · 03-04-2020, 07:34 AM

Have used our 16K 2700 series Superglide for 6 seasons and never had any issues when hitching or unhitching. High pinning (as with most any fifth wheel type hitch) and trying to hitch or unhitch at greater than 10 degrees with the superglides (which is very unusual for most of us) are the only 2 items that have shown to create some challenges for some folks as I recall over the years.

Is your hitch new or used and if used possibly damaged by previous owners ? Is it clean and lubricated per instructions ? Take some pictures next time you have challenges and post them so we can see what may be going on. A video would be even better if you have someone to do so.

Dan

**geotex1** · 03-04-2020, 10:54 AM

Here's your BEST piece of advice - find a new dealership with technicians that know something!

You should not need your trailer brakes engaged to hitch up. Not at all. Your PullRite needs to be inspected and serviced.

Now, your stock brakes are drum brakes. Energizer the magnet does not "set" the brakes." All it does is engage the mechanical linkage such that subsequent movement will lever the shoes to bear against the drum. Pulling the breakaway will energy the magnets to the maximum, and they are designed to take maximum power for VERY short bursts! If you were to pull the breakaway, camp a weekend, your brakes would be toast and perhaps your entire camper if you're on shorepower!

**first5th** · 03-04-2020, 12:15 PM

This hitch was purchased new and installed at the GD dealer where I bought the trailer and was still under warranty. Prior to this particular time I never had an issue re-connecting. The dealer said “they serviced the hitch and made some adjustments and it should be fine”. While in storage I connected and re-connected a couple times and worked fine. Hopefully the problem is behind me and won’t have to think about using the tactic again. Although, I do find using the brake controller idea from mntbikejack for the pull test interesting. Thanks for the feedback.

**DuffMan** · 03-06-2020, 11:50 PM

Are you using a Teflon pad/plate between the pin box and the hitch?

In my research, I called and asked specifically if it was “ok” to use one and was told yes. Fast forward to PDI and I give it a shot on the nice level floor with no issues. Go back a couple days later to pick up the unit and bring it home (bad weather day of PDI) and I can’t seem to hitch up. Long story short: No, you cannot use a lube plate with a Pull-Rite because the plate plus the capture plate causes a high pin in anything less than perfect alignment conditions. This was verified when I called back and spoke to a different rep who apologized for the bad info and confirmed you can’t use them.