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03-05-2020, 10:03 AM #11
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On some units it's possible to run a cord through a slide. Put the slide in/out halfway, feed the cord end through, then open slide. Don't plug the cord in while doing this, it is possible to cut the cord.
Another trick when using multi-heaters is to turn your refrigerator and water heater over to the propane side.
It took a while to get DW trained up on circuit load. She kept wondering why her hair dryer wouldn't work when she had a portable heater running in the bathroom.
+1 on the gas furnace running during temps below 25. In most GD products the bays and water tank areas are heated via the furnace, keeps them from freezing up.
Don't place an electric heater too close to the gas furnace thermostat...Dallas
2017 Momentum 376TH, 2019 Ford F450, Dual Rear Wheel, 4x4, diesel.
2015 Harley-Davidson Street, XG750
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03-08-2020, 08:40 AM #12
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I began doing this this year when we have free electricity; cheaper than propane for sure.
We got one of the heaters below last year and were very pleased with it. It and our fireplace coped pretty well with cool nights, but were not enough by themselves on colder nights so the furnace was required.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...ceramic-heater
Thinking that our fireplace if overworked would cost a lot more to replace than those heaters, I recently bought three more of the heaters and have run all four at the same time, without running the fireplace. I run them on their low setting, which is 1300 watts, and they've done well at maintaining temp when outside dropped to near-freezing. I plug them into the hutch near the door, the kitchen island, the dining slide, and the bedroom near the washer-dryer closet, but as @FT4NOW has pointed out there's no certainty that your trailer (or even another 310GK like ours!) would be wired the same way to support that.
One of the heaters - I don't know if it's last year's or one of the new ones - has a sometimes-noisy fan but so far that's my only complaint. At that price I feel like it has been a good move even if I have to replace them once in a while.Last edited by boyscout; 03-08-2020 at 08:44 AM.
Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch
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03-08-2020, 10:58 AM #13
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A: Be sure to use different circuits
B: Don't overload or continuously max out a circuit.
C: If you can't run it from the rig without doing the above, install a feedthrough electrical connector that allows you to run an extension cord to the post and utilize the additional outlets available without loading your rig. One thought: NOCO GCP1 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug Power Inlet with 16-Inch Integrated Extension Cord o Amazon)
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03-14-2020, 07:00 PM #14
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Our 2670MK has only 1 115V circuit breaker for all the outlets. The fireplace is on separate breaker. On cold but not below freezing nights we run 2 small heaters on low one near back and one in bedroom and leave bath door open. Below freezing we use propane furance to keep tanks from freezing. At Home I keep one electric heater in front compartment (tanks empty water lines drained,) and one towards rear all doors and drawers open below sink. Keep temps at 50 degrees.
Tim
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03-14-2020, 10:03 PM #15
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Your 311 should be like mine. 1 circuit is on your plugs in rooms, TV's, etc. The others circuit you can use is your GFCI in bathrooms and kitchen. You could also put the third on the microwave outlet.
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03-15-2020, 06:38 AM #16
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04-15-2020, 10:46 AM #17
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Yep! IMHO every RV owner needs to map out their circuits. Here in Texas, in the cooler weather I run a 1500/750W heater in the cabin and one in the basement. In the 337 I learned early on that where I had the basement plugged in and the cabin it blew the breaker. Put that one in the rear. Problem solved. YMMV and regards
Ken & Margie
2020 GD 337
2018 Ram 3500 DRW 4X4
B&W Companion
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