Comfort Ride installed on 351M

**Overtaxed** · 03-10-2020, 01:36 PM

Well, I'm done. After getting an insane labor quote from my dealer (~1000 dollars) to install the ComfortRide shocks, I did the work myself. Took about 6 hours total, would have been 3-4 if I'd done it before and had all the right tools ready/available. It wasn't that bad, and I'm happy to answer any questions about what's involved/what's hard. The biggest thing, I needed my right angle drill a LOT doing this. It's hard to get into the location you need to drilling the holes. And a big impact wrench with a good articulating connection (so you can can bend the wrench around to get in there). It's not "hard", it's just a long/slow process. I also had to cut a drill bit using an angle grinder, I needed something really small to bore out the holes (I used a step drill to get "close" and then a normal bit (the cut down one) to bore the rest of the hole.

Results? It's significant. I have a Goosebox already, so not much "chucking" to deal with; and, of course, the GB already has air suspension in it. But it's certainly noticeable, the trailer is much better behaved on things like expansion joints, less back and forth motion. Also, less bouncing, for sure, I can see that in the rear view. The shocks really aren't that expensive, this is one of those "why didn't they just do this from the factory" questions. Anyway, happy to help others; my trailer is in trying to get my generator fixed, but, when it gets back, I'll update with some pictures so you can see what the install looks like.

Here's the kit I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Roadmaster-24...SSF2QPGTVJ5Z6W

**avidcamper** · 03-13-2020, 07:05 PM

Overtaxed, this is on my mod list. I have a reflection 303RLS. I think my frame is similar to yours but smaller. Question is is this a bolt on kit? did you have to remove the underbelly or cut it? What is your impression of the ride after?

**Overtaxed** · 03-13-2020, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by avidcamper

Overtaxed, this is on my mod list. I have a reflection 303RLS. I think my frame is similar to yours but smaller. Question is is this a bolt on kit? did you have to remove the underbelly or cut it? What is your impression of the ride after?

Yes, it's bolt on, but you do have to drill the holes into the frame for the mounts, and that is, by far, the worst part of the job. Have some really sharp bits available, a right angle drill and be in a good (not tool throwing) mood.

I had to cut a tiny bit of the underbelly away, very, very little. But I only needed to remove it in the area I was working to make room, no dropping the entire underbelly or anything like that.

The ride after is markedly better. It pulls smoother and takes bumps better, which is a big issue for me because the highway near me (I85) in my area is a nightmare, potholes, tramlines, expansion joints. Anything that can be wrong with a road other than "shelled by enemy artillery" seems to be about the "standard" road building in my area. It surges less, it's smoother, it's less jarring. Now, I do also have air ride on my hitch (Goosebox) and I'm sure that helps as well, but overall I'd say I'm to the point where it's "very comfortable" for me, I don't see the need for further improvement.

I just got my rig back from the dealer and am planning on taking some pictures, sorry, I will update as soon as I get that done.

**avidcamper** · 03-13-2020, 08:48 PM

Thanks overtaxed. I have the Andersen setup with the ball mount to the bed. I am fighting some chunking so looking for something to address it. I tried an Airborne pin assembly which only addresses the up and down motions. I am still getting the forward and back jerking. Looking at the Mor-ryde pin which has rubber isolation in both directions and the shocks on the trailer. Put the CRE 3000 and HD wetbolts on already.