Converter/charger/power center replacement options

[Muskoka]

Why do you change the batteries to lithium?

[Steve & Sheryl]

Muskoka

The OEM battery supplied with your trailer is rated somewhere around 60 - 75 Amp hours. However, you really can only use about half of that before you start damaging the battery. Off the grid, I pull about 1 amp total each hour for the fridge, clock on the radio, and the CO detector. If we run the furnace, we pull about 20 amp hours overnight. Add in a few lights, running a vent fan, or playing the stereo, you can easily challenge a the 30 AH limit of a 60 AH battery in a 24 hour period.

The 7 prong connection to the TV won't recharge your battery, so you need to hook up to an alternate source (shore power, solar panel, or generator) to get the battery recharged. My normal travel pattern is two or three days dry camping (i.e. free), followed by one day in a park with electricity. I have an external solar panel, but I only hook it up if I'm staying in one place for a few days. Like almost everyone you will hear from, you will probably ruin your battery in the first two years. I did. I originally intended to replace it with a 100 AH lead acid battery, But after a little research I swallowed to cost and switched to a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. You get access to the full 100 AH without damaging the battery, it weighs less, and it theoretically lasts far longer.

On the flip side, if you're camping/travel strategy is to pretty much always be hooked up, I wouldn't spend the money.

[cgjog182]

I purchased a new Solitude in May and prepared it for boondocking. Took the charger/converter out/offline and purchased 3 Battleborns and an IC3000 from Go Power. It took me awhile given I have no electronics aptitude but all works well. The only hang up I’ve encountered is that charging the batteries with my existing Honda 2000w generator takes a long time. Working that bug out as we speak.

[bertschb]

On the flip side, if you're camping/travel strategy is to pretty much always be hooked up, I wouldn't spend the money.

Actually, I'd still spend the money and here's why...
With LiFePO4 batteries, you don't have to worry about the parasitic drain from the stereo and CO detector killing the battery while in storage. You also don't have to worry about leaving your RV at the dealer for work and having that kill the battery. No need to check the water level. No need to vent the batteries. If you have a lithium specific charger, LiFePO4 batteries charge much faster. LiFePO4 batteries are much lighter. Finally, if you get a decent LiFePO4 battery, it will have a BMS that will protect from under/over charging (among other things).

Although we plan to do some boondocking on a future trip, we currently spend all our time in the RV while on shore power. Even so, I switched to two LiFePO4 batteries for the reasons I mentioned.

[more tired since retired]

Why do you change the batteries to lithium?

Three main reasons:

First is weight (lithium batteries weight roughly 30 lbs vs lead acid at 60+) and you take that off the the tongue.

Second, you can only safely draw a lead acid or AGM battery down to 50% of it's amp rating. Going lower will shorten life and can destroy the battery. Lithium can be run to virtually zero and recharged. Much more time on batteries.

And third, you will be buying 2 or 3 lead acid batteries during the life of a lithium battery. Lead acid is good for 200-300 (roughly) recharges when drawn to 50%. Lithium can go 3500-5000 recharges from zero and still be at 80% of new output.

Also with lithium, you don't need to check water levels, they does out gas explosive gas (hydrogen), you can mount them on their sides or upside down.

[more tired since retired]

So picked up our trailer last weekend, it's a smaller 17MKE. Looking at replacing the batteries with Lithium, and basically the stock power center converter seems to be mostly worthless from all accounts I can find. WFCO 8735-P panel seems to come with an integrated converter on a board so is not one of the models with the tray for a separate converter underneath the distribution panel.

What are my options here? Replace the whole panel? Install a separate charger and somehow disconnect the on-board? I'm not electrically challenged, but I feel like I'd rather swap a single component over rewiring the entire panel if I can help it.

Thanks for any advice

Check out bestconverter.com. I found them to be a great source of information and help you determine what you need. Veteran owned. I just ordered a smart converter/charger to swap with the WFCO 8955PEC in my 2600RB.

[Fish Tank]

I purchased a new Solitude in May and prepared it for boondocking. Took the charger/converter out/offline and purchased 3 Battleborns and an IC3000 from Go Power. It took me awhile given I have no electronics aptitude but all works well. The only hang up I’ve encountered is that charging the batteries with my existing Honda 2000w generator takes a long time. Working that bug out as we speak.

Did you change the setting in the IC 3000 to 30 amp when charging off your generator?

[orbiker]

Why is a fuse used between the battery and the battery selector (on / off ) switch?

Would a re-settable breaker work there also?

Thanks, KEN

[cgjog182]

The EU2000i Honda only has output outlets for 15a and I did change the IC3000 for it. I have a 12kw charger that delivers 50a so I’ll try that (and, of course, change the inverter to 50a. The small Honda increases the charge 5% every hour. Way too slow!

[DaveMatthewsBand]

The EU2000i Honda only has output outlets for 15a and I did change the IC3000 for it. I have a 12kw charger that delivers 50a so I’ll try that (and, of course, change the inverter to 50a. The small Honda increases the charge 5% every hour. Way too slow!

You've got some serious wiring issues then. That IC3000 should be able to charge your batteries in a couple hours.
We have the Honda too and one more battery than you.
Our little Honda can take all 4 lithiums from 50% to 100% in about 2.5 hours.