Upgrade to Litium Batteries

[Dalek20]

Nice job ! So what are those sized batts called, ie. Group 24, etc...looks like a good mod. You mind telling the cost per batt ?

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You can go on their website for dimensions (I think size 24, isn't 27 longer than 24).

Got the batteries at an RV show for show price $849 each. They sound pricy but consider the following 100% exchange the first 8 years and prorated for the next 2. Price out $200 for a lead-acid battery. You would need 8 batteries for the amount of usable power. Lead-acid batteries are good for like 5 years. So comparable cost is $3,396 for lithium to $3,200 for lead-acid. For $196 (19.60 a year) I like the convenience of lighter weight, smaller area they take up, no need to fill (or check regularly) the water, no gassing, and not having to make sure I did not draw down below 50% capacity, therefore, damaging the battery capacity and lifespan. Worth every penny I put into the upgrade.

Upgrades I have done and would not do without: lithium batteries, See Level II, redesign of my light/slide switch panel, 450 watts of solar, Micro Aire boxes for my A/C, and slide out Line-x tool tray in basement!!

[oconnelljen2]

What converter charger inverter did you get?

[Dalek20]

What converter charger inverter did you get?

Battle Born recommends the Progressive Dynamics line. I went onto the Progressive site and this is the one they recommended to replace my current 55 Amp converter. Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger - Lithium - 12V - 60 Amps. Item # PD9160ALV

I bought it from ETrailer.com

[Lance Glogowsky]

I have had my Safari Lithium batteries for awhile now, just waiting for my PD converter/charger and Voltron battery monitor. Just received everything yesterday and am ready to go. I'll have to wait to my next days off sometime next week. While waiting for everything to arrive, Iv'e been reading all the different threads and opinions/options when it comes to upgrading everything and asking a few questions here and there. This thread provided good information on Lithium battery placement and positioning, and a good link from Mark on best wiring configurations.

The other day I tested the voltage from my WFCO converter and then at my battery bank that I figure is about 16' of 6 gauge wire away. (A lot of waisted wire run to get to the front compartment) 13.6 output volts at the converter and 13.2 volts at the front compartment battery busbar.

After all of this, my current thought is to put the new converter where WFCO one is now. Upgrade to a 4 gauge wire from the converter to the DC panel and then reroute the upgraded 4 gauge wire along the ceiling of the basement compartment to the front battery compartment, (More of a straight shot then what the current wire is running) attaching it to the battery cutoff switch on the way. By rerouting the wire, I figure on eliminating a good third of the wire length that's on there now. Any thoughts on my plans or what I could do better or should not do.

Thanks
Lance

[Dalek20]

I have had my Safari Lithium batteries for awhile now, just waiting for my PD converter/charger and Voltron battery monitor. Just received everything yesterday and am ready to go. I'll have to wait to my next days off sometime next week. While waiting for everything to arrive, Iv'e been reading all the different threads and opinions/options when it comes to upgrading everything and asking a few questions here and there. This thread provided good information on Lithium battery placement and positioning, and a good link from Mark on best wiring configurations.

The other day I tested the voltage from my WFCO converter and then at my battery bank that I figure is about 16' of 6 gauge wire away. (A lot of waisted wire run to get to the front compartment) 13.6 output volts at the converter and 13.2 volts at the front compartment battery busbar.

After all of this, my current thought is to put the new converter where WFCO one is now. Upgrade to a 4 gauge wire from the converter to the DC panel and then reroute the upgraded 4 gauge wire along the ceiling of the basement compartment to the front battery compartment, (More of a straight shot then what the current wire is running) attaching it to the battery cutoff switch on the way. By rerouting the wire, I figure on eliminating a good third of the wire length that's on there now. Any thoughts on my plans or what I could do better or should not do.

Thanks
Lance

Looks like a good plan

[GTedford]

Welcome to the horizontal battery club. I love the flexibility that Lithium batteries give.

Attachment 25929

I love your setup in the 337 Reflection. Did you install yourself and did you have to change over the converter? We also have a 337 RLS.

Thanks,
Gary

[Lance Glogowsky]

Looks like a good plan

What’s the thoughts. Do I need to run a four gauge negative wire from as well from my DC panel to the battery bank or just having it grounded to the trailer would be good enough?

[NASCAR9]

Thanks folks. I've seen the light, I need to upgrade. Already sent an email to Battle Born.

[DaveMatthewsBand]

Got tired of filling the water, making sure I didn't fall below 50% charge, and the gassing of the lead acid bateries. So, I decided it was time for a change.

I installed 4 Battle Born batteries vertically against the back wall of my front compartment. My inverter is mounter at the top of the box. I built the box out of a sheet of MDF plywood and went to the local Line-X dealer. For $100, they coated the whole box. The batteries are secured by horizontal 1" Velcro straps. In case I have to brake sharply, I installed vertical threaded rods (covered with plastic tubing). I used a connector in order to split the rod in 2 pieces, so I may remove the rods and a battery. I had custom made cabling so there would be no looping in the cables. Finally, I ordered online a 1/4 x 3/4 brass bar (the same size and material that battle born uses for the battery posts). I used them in the 4 areas that needed a 90° angle turn. I covered those pieces with heat shrink tubing.

I now have 4X the available power that I had with 4 6-volt batteries. Another plus is that the weight of the lithium batteries is only 31 pounds each!!!

The cost is upfront but the batteries come with a 10 year guarantee, the first 8 years the batteries have 100% replacement coverage.

Attachment 25854

One thing I would like to mention is this...

The warranty on any product from any manufacturer is typically the absolute minimum amount of time that company thinks that product will last. No company wants to lose money down the road paying for products that didn’t last through to the end of the warranty period. That’s a given. Common sense.
That being said, my opinion is that a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery, under normal RV use, will VERY likely last 15 to 20 years. Perhaps longer. I’ve had mine over 2 years and a typical “cycle” for mine isn’t 100% to 0% to 100% it is 100% to 60% to 100% about 8 months out of the year and 100 to 90 the remainder of the year. I expect to get far more than 10 years on this kind of regimen.

So the value is far greater than advertised.
The cost of lithium over the long haul is really more along the lines of one sixth to one eighth the cost of FLA or AGM.

If I sold tires made of a different compound than rubber, but they had better traction, were quieter,weighed 1/3 as much and they were warrantied to last 200,000 miles I wouldn’t be able to keep them in stock, even if they did cost $400 each!

It’s the same concept.


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[Outtahere]

I'm a fulltimer in my 310 GK. I upgraded to three Battle Born batteries, replaced the converter with a Victron 3000 watt inverter/120 amp charger and put 960 watts of solar on the roof. I've been running with that for about a year and a half, which included a trip from San Diego to Alaska and back with a lot of dry camping. I had to use the Honda 2200 twice during that time. Once, in glacier National Park last May the solar panels were covered with two inches of snow, and once after three solid days of rain. I do run the generator at least once a month just as part of maintaining it. The Honda allows me to put 100 amps into my batteries right up to the point they're fully charged, which is really nice.
Today is my first day after replacing the No Cold fridge with a KitchenAide household model. I'm in a park with full hookups, and since it's hot enough to need the air conditioning, I think I'll wait a bit to try turning off the shore power just to see how it does. I'll let people know after I see how things work.