New-bee Suspension Questions

**BeerBrewer** · 04-14-2020, 02:38 PM

While I'm just sitting around the house due to the COVID 19 virus I thought that it would be a good time to prepare our one year old trailer (Transcend 26RLS) for our next trip which is planned for the end of June. We nixed the spring trip already.

I purchased 4 new new tires (Goodyear Endurance) but I haven't had them installed yet. When I do I was also planning to lube the wheel bearings at the same time. I've lubed the bearings on my little 14' boat trailer, so I assume that it won't be much different from that. I'm wondering what other maintenance I can do for the suspension system on our trailer, like lube or grease it, but there are no Zerk grease fittings on any of it. I've seen other posts and videos that show trailer suspensions that have "wet bolts" with zerk fittings so they can push grease right into the joints. I'm sure that we've got a mush cheaper suspension system by comparison and I'm sure has plastic bushings as well. How would I grease or maintain our cheapo suspension? Should I remove each bolt, coat it grease and reinsert it? Is it crazy expensive to upgrade it? In case you were wondering our trailer has just over 4100 miles on it.

**FT4NOW** · 04-14-2020, 05:41 PM

I know most boat trailers use zerk fittings for the bearings, that's not the way to do it on an RV. If you end up pushing too much grease in, it can get past the seal and contaminate your brakes. Once you get grease on the brakes they need to be replaced, you cant clean them. The proper way to grease RV bearings is to remove them and hand pack with grease and install a new grease seal. There is lots of discussion on this if you use the search function.

If you have wet bolts on your suspension they should be greased with a grease gun. If you dont have wet bolts and decide to upgrade them, I would recommend the Morryde wet bolts and HD shackle kit.

Other things are periodically checking the torque on the u-bolts.

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**BeerBrewer** · 04-15-2020, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by FT4NOW

I know most boat trailers use zerk fittings for the bearings, that's not the way to do it on an RV. If you end up pushing too much grease in, it can get past the seal and contaminate your brakes. Once you get grease on the brakes they need to be replaced, you cant clean them. The proper way to grease RV bearings is to remove them and hand pack with grease and install a new grease seal. There is lots of discussion on this if you use the search function.

If you have wet bolts on your suspension they should be greased with a grease gun. If you dont have wet bolts and decide to upgrade them, I would recommend the Morryde wet bolts and HD shackle kit.

Other things are periodically checking the torque on the u-bolts.

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My boat trailer does not have any zerk fittings. I have to pop the bearing cap off with a flat screw driver and remove the cotter pin and nut to get at the bearings and hub assembly. I assumed that I'd have to do something similar with the travel trailer.

Am I miss reading your post? I can change out the bolts and shackles on my trailer with the Morryde wet bolts and HD shackle kit, without changing my equalizers?

**FT4NOW** · 04-15-2020, 12:48 PM

Originally Posted by BeerBrewer

My boat trailer does not have any zerk fittings. I have to pop the bearing cap off with a flat screw driver and remove the cotter pin and nut to get at the bearings and hub assembly. I assumed that I'd have to do something similar with the travel trailer.

Am I miss reading your post? I can change out the bolts and shackles on my trailer with the Morryde wet bolts and HD shackle kit, without changing my equalizers?

You are correct, similar process on repacking RV bearings, and yes you do not need to swap out the equalizers. Best bet is to goto the Morryde web site or contact them and based on certain measurements they will tell you which wet bolt and HD shackle kit you will need.

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**jkwilson** · 04-15-2020, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by BeerBrewer

My boat trailer does not have any zerk fittings. I have to pop the bearing cap off with a flat screw driver and remove the cotter pin and nut to get at the bearings and hub assembly. I assumed that I'd have to do something similar with the travel trailer.

Am I miss reading your post? I can change out the bolts and shackles on my trailer with the Morryde wet bolts and HD shackle kit, without changing my equalizers?

Your travel trailer will have a brake hub that you’ll need to remove. This may require backing the brakes off. When you are done, you’ll need to adjust the brakes, which is an annual task anyway unless you upgraded to disc brakes or have self-adjusting drum brakes.

**BeerBrewer** · 04-16-2020, 01:28 PM

Originally Posted by jkwilson

Your travel trailer will have a brake hub that you’ll need to remove. This may require backing the brakes off. When you are done, you’ll need to adjust the brakes, which is an annual task anyway unless you upgraded to disc brakes or have self-adjusting drum brakes.

jkwilson... Thanks for the tip! This is the piece that I was worried about. I've since watched a few videos on this and I think I understand what I need to do.

During my quest for info I came across multiple posts on bearing and seal failures. Some people suggested going with Timken seals. Are these any better or worse? I typically buy original equipment, but the Dexter seals are made in China and I'd rather buy products made in the USA if possible. If Timken or some other brand is the way go, is there an easy way to cross reference between manufacturers?

**jkwilson** · 04-16-2020, 02:58 PM

Originally Posted by BeerBrewer

jkwilson... Thanks for the tip! This is the piece that I was worried about. I've since watched a few videos on this and I think I understand what I need to do.

During my quest for info I came across multiple posts on bearing and seal failures. Some people suggested going with Timken seals. Are these any better or worse? I typically buy original equipment, but the Dexter seals are made in China and I'd rather buy products made in the USA if possible. If Timken or some other brand is the way go, is there an easy way to cross reference between manufacturers?

Go to an auto parts place and ask for the best seals they have. Timken or National are likely what you’ll get.

**Gran Casita** · 04-16-2020, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by BeerBrewer

While I'm just sitting around the house due to the COVID 19 virus I thought that it would be a good time to prepare our one year old trailer (Transcend 26RLS) for our next trip which is planned for the end of June. We nixed the spring trip already.

I purchased 4 new new tires (Goodyear Endurance) but I haven't had them installed yet. When I do I was also planning to lube the wheel bearings at the same time. I've lubed the bearings on my little 14' boat trailer, so I assume that it won't be much different from that. I'm wondering what other maintenance I can do for the suspension system on our trailer, like lube or grease it, but there are no Zerk grease fittings on any of it. I've seen other posts and videos that show trailer suspensions that have "wet bolts" with zerk fittings so they can push grease right into the joints. I'm sure that we've got a mush cheaper suspension system by comparison and I'm sure has plastic bushings as well. How would I grease or maintain our cheapo suspension? Should I remove each bolt, coat it grease and reinsert it? Is it crazy expensive to upgrade it? In case you were wondering our trailer has just over 4100 miles on it.

As part of the inspection of your suspension, I would add a thorough visual inspection for:

1) cracks in the equalizer casing
2) cracks in your spring hangers, shackles, and leaf springs
3) look for bushings in your spring hangers that have deteriorated to the point where you have metal-on-metal contact
4) broken u-bolts
5) missing bolts on your wheel backing plate (I found one missing on one of mine! Thank goodness I found it!)
6) any broken welds

Just my "2 cents." -Diego

**BeerBrewer** · 04-16-2020, 03:47 PM

I was under the trailer the other day looking around at things and I did notice an odd gap between on one of the equalizer shackles and the leave spring. It wasn't too big, but none of the other shackles had anything like it, so I suspect that I have some sort of an issue. I plan on taking it apart to see if anything is going on. I suspect that the plastic bushing may have failed or the nut may be loose. So now I'm wrestling with what to do if the bushing has failed. I'm between replacing the old bolts, bushings and shackles with upgraded ones with wet bolts or just replacing it all with a Morryde 3000 and upgraded shackles, since its almost the same amount of work. All fun stuff!

**Gran Casita** · 04-16-2020, 04:38 PM

Originally Posted by BeerBrewer

I was under the trailer the other day looking around at things and I did notice an odd gap between on one of the equalizer shackles and the leave spring. It wasn't too big, but none of the other shackles had anything like it, so I suspect that I have some sort of an issue. I plan on taking it apart to see if anything is going on. I suspect that the plastic bushing may have failed or the nut may be loose. So now I'm wrestling with what to do if the bushing has failed. I'm between replacing the old bolts, bushings and shackles with upgraded ones with wet bolts or just replacing it all with a Morryde 3000 and upgraded shackles, since its almost the same amount of work. All fun stuff!

@Beer Brewer, IMO that's a great system. I ultimately had the same system installed on my coach, including the cross brace. The OEM components wore badly to an unsafe condition and several of the other components I replaced at the same time were in very bad shape. This experience was where I developed that visual inspection list I sent you. Your suspension is critical, so keeping it in good working order will serve you well! Good luck! -Diego