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  1. #11
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    I get amazed that something some of us have done for 40-50 years becomes so convoluted. Of course these days tolerances have become so tight, changes to the standard tried and true methods have come along. Way way back in my high school days, Vocational Agriculture class taught us to just use a bearing packer to push new grease in and push the old grease out while constantly removing the old grease and throwing it away. Times have changed.

    Now days it just seems parts are not made with the same longevity (cheap) that they used to have. I do thoroughly clean the old bearing with brake cleaner. I do use compressed air to dry the bearing but never spin a dry bearing. After cleaning the bearing I slowly rotate the bearing in my hand to get a good look at the rollers and cage. Any discoloring, or unusual marring on the rollers or even a hint of pitting and I toss it. I inspect the old races as well.
    Like someone said new bearings and seals are readily available and inexpensive, but I don't use cheap bearings or seals. I also inspect new bearings just like inspecting an old one. The one you throw away maybe in better shape than a new one these days. You just never know. And yes if I install a new bearing I also use the new race that comes with the bearing.

    However you do it, the most important in my book is to properly grease the bearings with quality grease, and setting the correct preload when re-installing. Always use a new seal. Packing the drum or rotor and cap full of grease is just a waste of grease. In the use of ez-lube hubs, I don't use them. I guess they figure grease is inexpensive so why not just pack it in there. I guess they figure it is an easier way of doing it, (lazy and less messy) but it is not the most effective way and may even be bad if grease gets past the seal. In any event you will probably do a better job than most shops I've seen if you grease properly and set the preload correctly. Remember to readjust your brakes (if drum) after repacking the bearings!
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Bottom of spindles seemed to match race discoloration on my axles on a used rig, ~6000mi.



    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
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    Looks to me like the bearings were moving on the spindle...crocus cloth or similar to clean it up, new bearings are in order....check fit of new bearings on spindle before installation of hub, supposed to be tight.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    Jun 2019
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    UPDATE

    I ended up redoing the grease job on all the bearings. After I packed them last time I wanted to give the EZlube a try after knowing that I just packed the bearings. But I created a problem doing so. I only had Extra HD Lucas grease on hand. Packing all that super thick grease into the hub made them hard to turn, that grease works great on tractors but not so great on wheel hubs. Which in turn made it hard to adjust the brakes. I did crank down the castle nut and then backed it off. My preloads are set just about where the factory set them. If I go any looser I can feel the in-out play in the hub.

    So I pulled them all, the seals all stood up to an EZ lube but I trashed them. Luckily I had ordered a 10 pack. I did replace a couple of the bearings with some Timkens. They do seem higher quality. I had to buy them locally, pricey. I ordered the rest of them off amazon for next time. I’ll adjust the brakes in the morning and see how she goes. Most the stuff I used came from amazon. I’m trying to limit my exposure. I’ll post some part numbers here incase some one else needs help in the future.

    Parts needed for Dexter 3500lb EZlube axles.

    Lippert Seal 333961 10 pack

    Timken SET4, 4 total

    Timken SET17, 4 total

    About $110 for everything.

    I also purchased a bearing race driver set, hand bearing packer and vavoline synthetic grease.

    Everything else needed is just normal hand tools.

    2018 F-250 6.7L Leveled, 35’s.
    2019 Imagine 2500RL, 640w Solar, Lion UT1300s, 3000w Inverter
    CRE3000, Sumosprings

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