How does this bearing look?

[Flip94ta]

3500lb axles, first lube job with about 2000 miles on the camper. Sorry if they’re rotated. I don’t love the burn marks. Area was smooth.

Inner bearing


Outer bearing



Overall I thought the axles didn’t have quite enough grease. Both bearings and their immediate surroundings were lined but there was nothing between the bearings or in the dust cover.
Also some crappy pitting on my spindles of the front axle.

[Calbar]

They look OK to me in the photos but really hard to tell in a picture. As long as the rollers are not discoloured, pitted or marked they should be fine. Just remember to clean all of the old grease out with solvent before you repack them. Clean and inspect the spindle as well. Make sure to follow the instruction for preload as well so you don't make the castle nut too tight.

Rob

[Flip94ta]

Yes the rollers looked fine, I ended up scribing The nut and setting preload close to factory settings other than on one hub, I loosened it maybe 1/8 turn since it was too tight.

[FT4NOW]

There is no need to have grease under the dust cover over the castle nut and the inner cavity doesnt need grease either. As long as both bearings are sufficiently coated in grease you are good to go.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Calbar]

Yes the rollers looked fine, I ended up scribing The nut and setting preload close to factory settings other than on one hub, I loosened it maybe 1/8 turn since it was too tight.

There is a process for setting the pre-load in the dexter manual. I would suggest that you follow that so your bearings are not too tight or too loose. Either can cause them to fail but too tight is much worse.

Here is the link to the Dexter manual. https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...vrsn=4dee048_0

Rob

[Flip94ta]

I’ll take a look at that, thanks!

[Wicked ace]

I'll take the contrary opinion and say that by the discoloration on the inside of that race you are holding, it has seen a lot of heat. It's curious how it favors the one side and back shoulder. Weather from incorrect installation, preload or lubrication these bearings are inexpensive and a new one is cheap insurance you won't end up on the side of the road.

[MJMCCAND]

I'll take the contrary opinion and say that by the discoloration on the inside of that race you are holding, it has seen a lot of heat. It's curious how it favors the one side and back shoulder. Weather from incorrect installation, preload or lubrication these bearings are inexpensive and a new one is cheap insurance you won't end up on the side of the road.

After 20+ years working with rotating equipment in chemical processing plants, I agree with Wicked Ace and would replace the discolored bearing(s). I've never been too keen on using any kind of solvent on roller or ball bearings, but rely solely on the repacking process (palm of the hand method using clean hands of course!) to push all the old grease out along with contaminants. Solvents are the enemy of lubrication.

[WhittleBurner]

After 20+ years working with rotating equipment in chemical processing plants, I agree with Wicked Ace and would replace the discolored bearing(s). I've never been too keen on using any kind of solvent on roller or ball bearings, but rely solely on the repacking process (palm of the hand method using clean hands of course!) to push all the old grease out along with contaminants. Solvents are the enemy of lubrication.

I agree. Ben awhile now but I was once a certified master mechanic. In school we were taught not to use chemicals onbearings as it will leave a residue on the bearing that will cause the grease to come off. If a solvent is used then denatured alcohol should be used afterward to get that residue off. Another thing is ti never use compressed air to blow dry the bearings as this will cause undue wear on the cages of the bearings.

[Rtshun]

In regards to MJMCCAND & WhittleBurners comments regarding solvents. Can one use brake cleaner to help degrease the existing bearings?