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Thread: 50 amp to 110 adapter
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05-09-2020, 08:06 PM #21
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Please make sure your extension cord is rated for 15 Amp
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05-09-2020, 09:41 PM #22
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I have a 2670mk and use a 50a to 15a adaptor on a 20a plug (on it’s own circuit) outside when at home. I can keep the battery charged as well as I keep one of the 2 AC units (the larger 15k btu unit) at 85 just to run occasionally, I am down here in South Florida it keeps the humidity down. Runs fine off of a 12ga extension cord. I actually have had one AC running at 77 as well as the main fridge on electric and the outside fridge, without issues, cord was only slightly warm close to the plug and have never popped the breaker in the house. I am sure that is maxed out for 20a but it is amazing that you can basically run everything needed if cautious with just 20a!
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05-10-2020, 07:50 AM #23
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05-11-2020, 09:34 AM #24
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Being anal about what is what I installed one of these volt/current meters on each phase of our Solitude's incoming power for about $9.00 each...
https://www.amazon.com/RUZYY-Digital...9209972&sr=8-2
I then used these meters to confirm that my loads were split evenly between the two phases. Also confirming as quoted above, the microwave is the single .largest current draw at 12.6 amps. The convection part of the oven was actually less.
Microwave oven......12.6 amps...Convection mode is less.
Gas/propane fridge...8.7 amps
Hot water tank............9 amps
Front AC..................7-9 amps
Rear AC/Heat Pump: 7-9 amps
The biggest load experienced with everything running is 32.8 amps on the highest phase. All of this was in an effort to verify that I was not overloading one of my extension cords for this unit...
Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,
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05-11-2020, 08:01 PM #25
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Frank,
I have a hard wired Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS. It will display total individual current on each leg.
I would question the accuracy of your $9 meters. They appear to be too low. The readings I get are higher than what you posted. For example when I run my AC units mine shows between 15-17 amps each.
Typical Dometic AC unit specs are 1,725 watts power consumption in cooling mode, which would be 14.3 amps, not 7-9 amps.
If you look at the specs for your water heater it will show it has a 1400 watt element. 1400 watts at 120 volts (1400/120) is 11.66 amps, not 9 amps.Last edited by Jerryr; 05-11-2020 at 08:03 PM.
Jerry & Linda
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05-11-2020, 09:00 PM #26
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Thanks for the response. I cross-checked the ammeters with a known good ammeter so I know they are close enough. What is not close enough is my memory... Your math is correct. My memory, not so much. I checked all of this months ago and forgot the exact numbers, however, with the numbers you provided I remember thinking at the time that the AC units don't draw as much as I would have expected. We were in Florida over the winter (we should have stayed another month!) and it was in the high 80's a lot of the time so everything was running. I bought the small indicators so I could have a ready reference as to what was going on, but mostly so I could confirm that the loads were balanced phase to phase. The largest amperage I have ever seen with everything running was in the low 30's. I was satisfied with that. Thanks again.
Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,
Do you consume anything on long...
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