battery disconnect key replacement

[Lance Glogowsky]

Gene:
I don’t know how you find these diagrams. This is exactly mine other than being backwards. I obviously messed up on my wiring someplace. I thought I replaced the six gauge wire with the four gauge wire following the same wire paths in the trailer but obviously not. I ran my four gauge wire from the DC panel to the cut off switch and then from the cut off switch to the reset breakers and then to the battery, which was obviously incorrect. I don’t know what I did to the other ends of the two black wires on the bottom left that feeds power to the wall slide. I’ll relook at it and hopefully get it fixed. Thank you.

I was figuring on maybe being able to drive the trailer a few weeks maybe three at the most after my surgery to go camping. My wife’s telling me the Internet states that I probably won’t be driving until up to eight weeks after the surgery. That is not what I expected. Was your experience the same?

Lance

[Lance Glogowsky]

[QUOTE=gbkims;296837]Lance,
By your description and looking at the various photos of front compartment DC wiring, which all look different, this one from beaumark looks the closest to what you might have.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post264950

So it was Battery + to copper bus bar to feed power to the 4 auto resetting CBs.
Large Red wire on bottom went to the Disconnect switch, then back to bottom of left CB as +12 Black wire and on same terminal +12V Black runs to the AC-DC Panel, and thru the CB to Bedroom Slide Controller.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Hope this helps some.

Wishing you speedy recovery from your hip surgery.

Been about 10yrs since I had lower back worked on. Now right shoulder getting some arthritis, just getting older.[/

Gene:
I don’t know how you find these diagrams. This is exactly mine other than being backwards. I obviously messed up on my wiring someplace. I thought I replaced the six gauge wire with the four gauge wire following the same wire paths in the trailer but obviously not. I ran my four gauge wire from the DC panel to the cut off switch and then from the cut off switch to the reset breakers and then to the battery, which was obviously incorrect. I don’t know what I did to the other ends of the two black wires on the bottom left that feeds power to the wall slide. I’ll relook at it and hopefully get it fixed. Thank you.

I was figuring on maybe being able to drive the trailer a few weeks maybe three at the most after my surgery to go camping. My wife’s telling me the Internet states that I probably won’t be driving until up to eight weeks after the surgery. That is not what I expected. Was your experience the same?

Lance

[Lance Glogowsky]

Sorry I doubled the above reply. Still learning how all this works. I wish there was a tutorial.

Lance

[Lance Glogowsky]

[QUOTE=Lance Glogowsky;296856]

Lance,
By your description and looking at the various photos of front compartment DC wiring, which all look different, this one from beaumark looks the closest to what you might have.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post264950

So it was Battery + to copper bus bar to feed power to the 4 auto resetting CBs.
Large Red wire on bottom went to the Disconnect switch, then back to bottom of left CB as +12 Black wire and on same terminal +12V Black runs to the AC-DC Panel, and thru the CB to Bedroom Slide Controller.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Hope this helps some.

Wishing you speedy recovery from your hip surgery.

Been about 10yrs since I had lower back worked on. Now right shoulder getting some arthritis, just getting older.[/

Gene:
I don’t know how you find these diagrams. This is exactly mine other than being backwards. I obviously messed up on my wiring someplace. I thought I replaced the six gauge wire with the four gauge wire following the same wire paths in the trailer but obviously not. I ran my four gauge wire from the DC panel to the cut off switch and then from the cut off switch to the reset breakers and then to the battery, which was obviously incorrect. I don’t know what I did to the other ends of the two black wires on the bottom left that feeds power to the wall slide. I’ll relook at it and hopefully get it fixed. Thank you.

I was figuring on maybe being able to drive the trailer a few weeks maybe three at the most after my surgery to go camping. My wife’s telling me the Internet states that I probably won’t be driving until up to eight weeks after the surgery. That is not what I expected. Was your experience the same?

Lance

Gene:

OK, using the diagram you posted, a few days before my surgery, I connected all the wires in the right spots. Unfortunately, the 4 gauge wire from the DC panel was too short to reach the auto resetting cb after disconnecting it from the battery cutoff, as well as then running the correct wire back from the auto reset busbar to the cutoff switch. I mickey moused the three wires together in the middle of that run using a cooper 2/0 size set screw wire clamp that connects to a battery post. I used the battery post hole and screwed it onto a small block of wood into the front compartment wall. Doing this three days before my surgery and being under quarantine until after the surgery didn't allow me to obtain a +busbar. I wanted it operational not knowing the shape I would be in when I could go camping after my new 6 million dollar hip was in place.

Now that I'm back home from the hospital, I need to order a 4 stud + busbar for it. I still have to finish wiring the BMV702 system up. I'm sure I will be asking the forum for help with it.

I made a 4 day reservation at Heber City Utah Mountain Valley RV resort for May 21st. I hope the therapist and doctor gives me a green light to be able to drive my trailer there.

Thanks for your continual help as well as from everyone else.

Lance

[Lance Glogowsky]

Lance,
By your description and looking at the various photos of front compartment DC wiring, which all look different, this one from beaumark looks the closest to what you might have.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post264950

So it was Battery + to copper bus bar to feed power to the 4 auto resetting CBs.
Large Red wire on bottom went to the Disconnect switch, then back to bottom of left CB as +12 Black wire and on same terminal +12V Black runs to the AC-DC Panel, and thru the CB to Bedroom Slide Controller.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Hope this helps some.

Wishing you speedy recovery from your hip surgery.
Been about 10yrs since I had lower back worked on. Now right shoulder getting some arthritis, just getting older.

I'm glade I changed my 6 gauge wiring to 4 gauge. My voltage meter shows 14.6 volts going out of the PD converter and 14.5 volts at the connection for the lithium batteries, which are about 10' away. The charged lithium batteries shows 13.7 / 13.8 volts. Is 13.7 / 13.8 volts the normal fully charge voltage for lithium batteries? What is your suggestion for the positive fuse amperage at the batteries positive post?

Thanks
Lance

[gbkims]

I'm glade I changed my 6 gauge wiring to 4 gauge. My voltage meter shows 14.6 volts going out of the PD converter and 14.5 volts at the connection for the lithium batteries, which are about 10' away. The charged lithium batteries shows 13.7 / 13.8 volts. Is 13.7 / 13.8 volts the normal fully charge voltage for lithium batteries? What is your suggestion for the positive fuse amperage at the batteries positive post?

Thanks
Lance

04-26-2020, 01:44 PM #19 https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post290875
Lance Glogowsky
Join Date
Oct 2016
Location
Utah
Posts
128

Thanks for your input and help. So just to make sure I have this down.

I'll run my upgraded 4 gauge + - wiring from my PD9160 to the panel (the way it is now). Then from the panel the + wire through the battery disconnect, to the front compartment bus bar where the old +6 gauge wire is attached that came from the panel. Then from the bus bar, where to old 6 gauge wiring is connected to the batteries positive post. For safety, place a fuse on the + wire near the battery. (I'm sure that bus bar is some type of CB, but I don't know the official name for it) Connect the - wire, from the panel, to a new - bus bar, or directly to the trailer (in the front compartment) and then onto the negative post of the battery, with the Monitor shunt in between close to the battery.
Regarding the inverter: You mentioned using larger wires then my 00 wires I have attached now? For safety, I need to add a class T type fuse on the 00+ side to the batteries. I need to use 00 wire from the battery side of the shunt to the - battery post to match the inverters 00 wire that will attach the non battery side of the shunt. I assume the 00 and 4 gauge wire will both fit on the shunt.
I will ensure the TT brake and slide wiring is on the battery side of the cutoff switch. I read in another post where the co2 detector is connected from the DC panel. If so, wouldn't it lose power if the battery cutoff is turned off?
Sorry for the long POST. Hopefully I'm closer to having it right.

Lynne and Lance
2018 Grand Design 303RLS
2015 Ram 2500 Diesel

05-25-2020, 05:06 PM #18 https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post296555
Lance Glogowsky
Join Date
Oct 2016
Location
Utah
Posts
128

Thanks for everyones help. I finished replacing my 6 gauge wire with 4 gauge and lithium batteries connected. I still have some cleaning up to do in adding a cutoff switch on the + cable to the battery and + busbar, and setting up my battery monitor.

I used a double fuse block on my +battery post, with a 200 amp fuse to the inverter and a 250 amp fuse to the reset circuit breaker board. I'm sure the 250 amp fuse is wrong. The voltage in the front battery compartment shows 14.5 volts from the converter, however the voltage directly on the batteries show 13.4 volts after I turned off the battery disconnect. Is that correct or maybe I didn't charge them enough?

I tested the 12 volt systems in the trailer, including my slides. 2 slides work with no problem. The bedroom wall slide has no power. The two 30 amp fuses are good. One fuse must work two slides. I traced the power wires from the slide controller to the front compartment automatic reset circuit bus board that is made up of 5 screw stubs on one side with a cooper backing connecting 4 of them together. The slide controller is connected to the stub without the cooper connection. There are five stubs adjacent to the other ones. The stub adjacent to the controller wire has two decent size black wires connected and going into the wall.(Maybe the electric brakes?) All the stubs show 14.5 volts, except the controller stub shows nothing, along with the adjacent stub. Is it possible those studs have a separate automatic reset breaker in the back of it that isn't working? Please give my your thoughts.

Besides for my rewiring project slowing down the start of my camping season, I have hip replacement surgery this coming Friday. Someone tell me I'll be good to go camping within two weeks of the surgery, while taking it very easy. The surgery is giving me about two weeks off work.

Thanks

Lance

Lynne and Lance
2018 Grand Design 303RLS
2015 Ram 2500 Diesel

Lance,

Is this the 4 Awg from the Battery + Post to the Auto Resetting CB Busbar via the Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block?


If so for 4 Awg I'd use a 100A fuse, it's enough for the battery charging amps and any loads pulled by the RV as well as below max ampacity of 4 Awg 105°c wire.

Correct Size DC Wire, Fuse, and Fuse Holder http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../980006450.pdf

Some photos would help with visualizing your setup.
I have used http://photoposting.is-great.net/ for posting as well as the forum's image posting function.

For the UT1300 being fully charged. The UT1300's internal BMS (Battery management System) controls when the batteries stop accepting charge.
I've seen 13.9V mention, so 13.8V is pretty close.

User Manual made it look like there some LEDs on the battery to check charge also.
User Manual - https://support.lionenergy.com/files...l_20191209.pdf

Lion Energy FAQ https://lionenergy.com/products/lion-safari-ut-1300#faq
Battery Charging Parameters:
We recommend setting all voltages to a max of 14.6 per UT in series or at least close to it.
End amps or tail amps need to be set as low as possible and inverter low voltage needs to be set to 11.5V.
Victron inverters charger and charge controllers should be set to 13.9 volts for a 12 volt inverter and 27.8 for 24 volt inverters.

Also Lion Energy sent andrewsteve charge info, it's for solar charger, but looks like 13.9V for fully charged.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...rge-controller