Need Some Advice

[Roll With The Changes]

I'm on the road and lost my coroplast. The front edge came loose it peeled a section back. I had to just remove it on the side of the road just to keep going.

I'll be stationary for a few days and need to do something. I have basic hand tools and I think I'm pretty handy. I've been wanting to do something better than the coroplast anyway, but I wasn't planning on doing it in the field.

I would like to make separate panels so it's not a major job to drop it and see all the bad things in the belly. This would inherently make it rigid which is a plus as well. The problems are the insulation issue as well as trying to support a panel between the frame rails with not much, if anything, to attach it to.

Ok. To the point. I'm thinking of corrugated metal roof material. Yes, unorthodox, but it just might work. With tall enough ribs, it may be ok spanning 6 feet between the frame rails. With rigid foam insulation glued to it, that will make it stiffer and give more insulation than the worthless wet bat they put in at the factory. Also, with the right foam filler pieces at the ends, the panel would be effectively thermally separated from the frame rail. It would also be a system that can be removed in pieces for inspection and that is a plus as well.

Remember this is a field repair. If its not a permanent solution thats not the end of the world, but I just might be able to pull that off too.... Thoughts?

[WhittleBurner]

I'm trying to vision this attached and see many holes to fill with each wave. Not sure if it'll work but if you try it be sure to take pics along the install.

[ThePowells]

I'm trying to vision this attached and see many holes to fill with each wave. Not sure if it'll work but if you try it be sure to take pics along the install.

They make filler strip that works as a gasket and will fill the voids. A little glue to hold it in place and.. My only thought is the weight.

[boyscout]

Ok. To the point. I'm thinking of corrugated metal roof material.

Interesting idea. However what about a massive drop in fuel economy as you disrupt the carefully-designed airflow-streaming under your trailer?

Like @ThePowells my first thought was about weight, but the first couple of products I looked at don't offer up that information, like this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fabral-1...8000/202285067

The other thought was about all the holes you'll have to drill in the steel frame. The instructions for the product linked above say that when it's lying down it needs to be screwed every third rib or about every 7 inches. Since it will be suspended in a frequently-flexing and -moving environment, and subject to prolonged 60mph+ winds, it might need even more screws in it. If one of the panels comes off at speed...

Foam-insulated easily-removable sections sure does sound seductively attractive! Good luck.

[gordofuchs]

I'm on the road and lost my coroplast. The front edge came loose it peeled a section back. I had to just remove it on the side of the road just to keep going.

I'll be stationary for a few days and need to do something. I have basic hand tools and I think I'm pretty handy. I've been wanting to do something better than the coroplast anyway, but I wasn't planning on doing it in the field.

I would like to make separate panels so it's not a major job to drop it and see all the bad things in the belly. This would inherently make it rigid which is a plus as well. The problems are the insulation issue as well as trying to support a panel between the frame rails with not much, if anything, to attach it to.

Ok. To the point. I'm thinking of corrugated metal roof material. Yes, unorthodox, but it just might work. With tall enough ribs, it may be ok spanning 6 feet between the frame rails. With rigid foam insulation glued to it, that will make it stiffer and give more insulation than the worthless wet bat they put in at the factory. Also, with the right foam filler pieces at the ends, the panel would be effectively thermally separated from the frame rail. It would also be a system that can be removed in pieces for inspection and that is a plus as well.

Remember this is a field repair. If its not a permanent solution thats not the end of the world, but I just might be able to pull that off too.... Thoughts?

I admire what you are trying to do, as I am trying to do the same thing, although not in the field. I wish you luck. Where are you located ?

[gordofuchs]

The other thought was about all the holes you'll have to drill in the steel frame. The instructions for the product linked above say that when it's lying down it needs to be screwed every third rib or about every 7 inches. Since it will be suspended in a frequently-flexing and -moving environment, and subject to prolonged 60mph+ winds, it might need even more screws in it. If one of the panels comes off at speed...




I would think that something similar to 1x1 inch aluminum angle strips under the panels and screwed to the frame might secure the panel to the frame.

[Dick Noble]

I did this about 6 or so years ago on a Keystone product. I did the entire underbelly. I attached it to the frame with self drilling screws and had to rivet the edges together. Hardest place was around the spring shackles.

[Dick Noble]

I did buy an air powered/hydraulic riveter. I also learned never to over fill the riveter with fluid. I used exploding rivets (google it).

[Roll With The Changes]

Thanks for all the replies. Just got to where I can spend a little time with it. Lowes is about twenty minutes away and that's usually where I realize that none of my great ideas will work and I come up with something different.

At least we're in south Florida and the weather is good this week. I'll keep you all posted.

[Roll With The Changes]

I did buy an air powered/hydraulic riveter. I also learned never to over fill the riveter with fluid. I used exploding rivets (google it).

I've never heard of these... They look pretty impressive.