Hitch Height Question B&W Companion

[Roll With The Changes]

So if the rv is sitting level and you have 8 or 9 inches of bedrail clearance is there a reason to adjust it lower? Is there some benefit to being at the 7 inch clearance height or is it just that you don't want to be under 7 inches?

As others have said (kind of), the priority is getting the trailer to tow level. That will get the axles to be more evenly loaded which will make it more stable. It doesn't have to be perfect, but more level is better. The clearance over the bed rail is just about having enough to keep things from hitting each other. Too much clearance is not a problem.

I will also support what someone else said about your truck squatting. When the truck squats in the back, it changes the steering angle so the truck will handle differently. Looking at your pictures, it is not extreme but you would probably notice a difference in how it drives if you put some airbags on it.

[Steven@147]

Good advice going here. See our rig data in signature. We had the Companion set at the highest position. We were a little nose high but had 8 inches of bed clearance. Then we "Smart Weighed" at Escapees and found we were 600# more heavy on the rear RV axle than the front (partly because we were nose high) and we were at 13.6 feet in height. Now in Texas 13.6 feet in height is over the limit of 13.5, but who cares, who is going to measure it, I'm just saying. Our pin weight runs @ 2850 to 3000. Of course that depends on how many bowling balls or rocks the wife (like Lucy, Long Long Trailer) loads up front LOL, just kidding!

Reading on the Companion hitch each position changes the height approx 1 inch. I set the Companion down to the middle height position and now we have 7 inches of bed clearance and are level (not nose high anymore) with the RV loaded. Now we are right at 13.5 feet (or slightly under) in height and Also by changing to the middle height position it more evenly distributed the weight on the RV axles. It took some of that 600# difference on the rear axle and moved it to the RV front axle. Now we all love our RV axles and tires, right?
Like someone else eluded to - its a delicate dance getting the weight distributed, bed rail clearance, height, axle weight, truck squat, pin weight all in balance "the best you can".

I should add - when we took our Texas Class A Exempt drivers license driving test, (gross combined over 26,001#) you take your rig to the DPS testing facility. They did ask what our height was, they took our word for it, they did not measure it. Had I told them 13.6 feet, the rig would have failed. Just saying.

My advice - You can run her as she is, and at the first opportunity get her weighed/measured, see where you are at, get a baseline, then go from there.

Enjoy, Great Times Ahead

[Jackwagon]

That was first tow so we'll see how it all goes with a fully loaded trip. As for squat I'm not a fan of airbags and unless I get a lot more squat in the truck I'm not too worried. I do know the feeling of not enough weight on the front axle from previous setup with and without a wd hitch. I noticed the bumpers to engage the overload springs are really far from the spring when not hitched and I have to check still but from the hard hit we felt from the rear going over bumps I think it is just above the spring with the rv hitched and coming up and hitting when the bump in the road is big enough. I will probably be adding a spacer to close that gap and get engagement of the spring sooner. That should also take the slight sag I have out. Thanks for all the insight!

[Jackwagon]

Then we "Smart Weighed" at Escapees

What is Smart Weighing? I did go to the CAT scales with and without the rv. I got trailer weight but that was on both axles combined. I don't think I can get every axle on its own scale, but I guess I could put the entire truck on one section and the rv axles on their own. Would that be similar to smart weigh?

[Steven@147]

What is Smart Weighing? I did go to the CAT scales with and without the rv. I got trailer weight but that was on both axles combined. I don't think I can get every axle on its own scale, but I guess I could put the entire truck on one section and the rv axles on their own. Would that be similar to smart weigh?

Not really the same as. Smart Weigh is the trade mark of how they weigh RVs at the Escapees weigh sites. They weigh the rig by each individual tire/wheel. It costs a lot more but I believe you get better information and you get the added advantage of a certified weigh technician consultation. As a member of Escapees club it cost us $45 and a free re-weigh within a month. They also record each tires size and load rating and give you an evaluation of tire loading. Forgive the divergence from op.
https://www.escapees.com/education/smartweigh/

Here was our weights.
Weights Ram Actual W/O Trailer
Left Front = 2,700
Right Front = 2,700
Front Axle = 5,400

Left Rear = 1,900
Right Rear = 2,000
Rear Axle = 3,900

Ram Actual With Trailer
Left Front = 2,650
Right Front = 2,650
Front Axle = 5,300

Left Rear = 3,450
Right Rear = 3,400
Rear Axle = 6,850

Solitude 3350RL Actual
Left Front = 2,850
Right Front = 2,300
Front Axle Left to Right Variance = 550
Front Axle = 5,150
Front Axle Tire Pressures = 105 psi

Left Rear = 3,150
Right Rear 2,600
Rear Axle Left to Right Variance = 550
Rear Axle = 5,750
Rear Axle Tires Pressures = 105 psi

Trailer Height 13.6 feet

Trailer Weight = 10,900
Trailer Pin Weight 2,850
Trailer Total Weight 13,750

[[email protected]]

First time 5th wheel owner here. I have the B&W Companion hitch and set it to the highest position for picking up the RV from the dealer last weekend. Everything looks great, the rig sits level when hitched to the truck. It might be a slight half inch to 1 inch high in the front but this is with nothing in the rig except half tank of fresh water and more pin weight when we add all our crap to it might bring the front down that tiny bit.

I have about 8.5 or 9 inches between the rig and the bed rails. I have read you want it to be more like 7 inches and that is what the rv tech said too. Looking for opinions about lowering the hitch one setting to get that closer to the 7 inch above bed rails or leave it? Pictures below for reference, what would you do?

Attachment 26516

Attachment 26517

Attachment 26518

Whatever it takes for the trailer to ride level is what you need to do. It doesn't matter if its sitting 6" above your bed rail or 9" above your bed rail, often times the more clearance you have between the overhang and the bed rail the better as long as its level. The part that would make me nervous is from the side shot pictures you've included You have a lot of sag. I would definitely get airbags you got a lot of squat going on there and that will affect how the trailer handles on hills and uneven roads.

[Jackwagon]

Whatever it takes for the trailer to ride level is what you need to do. It doesn't matter if its sitting 6" above your bed rail or 9" above your bed rail, often times the more clearance you have between the overhang and the bed rail the better as long as its level. The part that would make me nervous is from the side shot pictures you've included You have a lot of sag. I would definitely get airbags you got a lot of squat going on there and that will affect how the trailer handles on hills and uneven roads.

Thanks for the input. We got her all loaded up and I measured the squat at 3.25 inches. I think it looks like more than it is from the rig sitting slightly high in the front. Either way I am getting rid of some of the squat soon by engaging the stock overload spring sooner with a spacer. Probably going to drop the hitch height one setting as well.

[Txfivver]

That was first tow so we'll see how it all goes with a fully loaded trip. As for squat I'm not a fan of airbags and unless I get a lot more squat in the truck I'm not too worried. I do know the feeling of not enough weight on the front axle from previous setup with and without a wd hitch. I noticed the bumpers to engage the overload springs are really far from the spring when not hitched and I have to check still but from the hard hit we felt from the rear going over bumps I think it is just above the spring with the rv hitched and coming up and hitting when the bump in the road is big enough. I will probably be adding a spacer to close that gap and get engagement of the spring sooner. That should also take the slight sag I have out. Thanks for all the insight!

You have a lot of squat, I'm betting your pin weight will come in a lot higher than you think. You may want to make sure the arms on your Companion hitch are slanted forward rather than rearward. This will shift the weight forward over the axle a little more and may help with the squat. I had Airlift 5000 bags on my 350 dually because it still had some below level squat but I had a lot more pin weight. 30 pounds in the bags kept it off the overload spring, you do not want to ride around on that, it's stiffer than hades! It's really designed as a last resort to keep you off the bump stops. Before the airbags mine would bounce down on it and it was a very noticeable bump when it hit.

[tgrinch]

[QUOTE=Jackwagon;294561]First time 5th wheel owner here. I have the B&W Companion hitch and set it to the highest position for picking up the RV from the dealer last weekend. Everything looks great, the rig sits level when hitched to the truck. It might be a slight half inch to 1 inch high in the front but this is with nothing in the rig except half tank of fresh water and more pin weight when we add all our crap to it might bring the front down that tiny bit.

I have about 8.5 or 9 inches between the rig and the bed rails. I have read you want it to be more like 7 inches and that is what the rv tech said too. Looking for opinions about lowering the hitch one setting to get that closer to the 7 inch above bed rails or leave it? Pictures below for reference, what would you do?
You Are great! you NEED at least 6-7 inches! Otherwise when you go over a dip or turn of the road if it is steep you will hit your bed. I wish I had 9" ( that's what she said).

[Rideblue51]

If I was you, I would put air bags on that truck and bring that rear end up to standard height. That'll bring that front end down and it'll drive better. Mine does. I once forgot to air up my bags and noticed the truck was driving like a boat, when I figured it out I put air in the bags while driving (on board pump underneath, and switch and gauge in the glove box) and had an obvious difference while going down the road.