Unfiltered Waterlines! Tell me it isn't so.

[CloseToRetirement]

Don,

Maybe I missed something in your description. If the "City" inlet runs all water through the filter, how will you bypass the filter when switching to "Winterize"? If all water from the "City" inlet passes through the filter any antifreeze you add either to the tank or directly to the RV lines will pass through the filter.

If I have not missed this connection, I would run a bypass around the filter in the utility center where you could easily turn a valve without having to remove the access panel. It appears the only thing correct in the plumbing is the hot side brass valve, the rest is a mess.

I would run a "T" with backflow preventers where the pump and the city connections feed the "RV" cold/drain line and a "T" into the pump with backflow preventer for the "Winterize" line coming from the top of the 4 way valve and the fresh water tank.

What a mess!!

I am very interested in what your final solution will be. Please keep us posted.

Thanks,
Lyle

[Don and Jean]

Even under the current configuration the antifreeze would run through the filtration system. I like your idea on the bypass for the filter since it's right at the filter and you're still getting the rest of the line. The backflow preventer on the pump line is also a good idea.

Thanks for the input;

Don

[CloseToRetirement]

Don,

I took another look at my diagram and found a challenge I cannot overcome....yet. The "Winterize" output and tank output go the the water pump which in turn goes to the cold-side feed to the RV and low-point drain. First, anti-freeze needs to reach the hot-side lines too without going through the hot water tank. Second the water pump needs to feed the hot water tank when dry camping.

I have not figured out how to tie the water pump into the hot-side value or lines to accommodate both scenarios. If you have some ideas once your get into the project, please pass them along.

Thanks,
Lyle

[Don and Jean]

So yours is routed differently than mine? How's that for consistency? With mine it's simply a matter of turning the water heater bypass valve to bypass and winterizer or for that matter any flow bypasses the water heater and flows directly into the hot water lines. Pictures?

[CloseToRetirement]

How many connections do you have to your hot water line that services the RV and low-point drain. It appears in the photo, just one, the double red white hose.

If you set the 4-way valve to "winterize" and the hot valve to "bypass", how do you get anti-freeze to the hot side line that services the RV. It appears the double blue white hose from the top of the 4-way (winterize) valve runs to the pump. If you set the 4-way valve to "winterize" the valve sends all the anti-freeze to the pump (desired outcome) to winterize the cold lines to the RV.

I'm still missing the connection to the hot side lines that service the RV for anti-freeze.

Cheers,
Lyle

[Don and Jean]

Lyle, you are correct. There is only one. If you look at the picture for the hose layout based on its current configuration when the pump is used the water is directed from the pump and through the white hose with the blue/yellow/tape. This line is now under pressure from the pump. The hose tees into the hose with the single blue tape. Since there is not a valve or any sort of backflow preventer at the tee, and there shouldn't be, the water will flow in two directions. Down to the water filter connected to the cold water line and up to the Kantleak valve. The Kantleak valve is set so the flow has to go through the brass fitting, which is actually a butterfly valve. When the valve is set to water heater it directs the flow down the hose with the blue and red tape, through the water heater and back to the valve through the hose with the single red tape. It is then directed up to the hose with the double red tape and to the hot water lines in the RV. When you turn the water heater to bypass it rotates the valve 90 degrees and shuts off the two hoses to the water heater directing the flow up to the hose with double red tape. I'm afraid I don't have my diagrams with me at work but will be glad to send them to you this evening when I get back to the RV. I have prepared a flow diagram for each scenario and this may help with your question.

Don

[CloseToRetirement]

Don,

I completely understand now. I did not realize the center outlet on the Kantleak was a butterfly valve. I altered my diagram to accommodate the scenario and it all makes sense.



This will be the first project in April when the coach comes out of storage.

Thanks,
Lyle

[Cate&Rob]

Don & Lyle:

A good discussion which I have been following (sort of).
I have a few questions . . .
What closes the draw from the tank when you are drawing from an antifreeze jug ? Doesn't this have to be part of the 4 way Kantleak valve ?
Why do you have to open a separate vent if gravity filling the tank ? Why wouldn't the overflow line do this ?
I have heard reference to some type of valve behind a panel in the shower wall (that can leak). What does this valve do and where is it in the system ?

Don, I would like to see your flow diagrams. I will send you a PM with my email address.

Rob

[CloseToRetirement]

Rob,

Good question!! I went back and revisited my diagram and made another correction. Don will hopefully confirm my revision.



The only connection to the water pump is from the top of the 4-way valve. The hose from the bottom of the 4-way value is the feed to the fresh water tank and is bi-directional. When the 4-way valve is set to Tank Fill, the water will be directed to the fresh water tank. When the 4-way valve is set to Normal, the water will be drawn from the fresh water tank by the pump through the lower inlet on the 4-way valve then pass through the 4-way to the top outlet to the water pump. When you set the 4-way to the Winterize position, this stops the connection to the fresh water tank and becomes the siphon for antifreeze to pass through the water pump to the RV water lines/faucets.

Lyle

[GDRV Service]

Due to my job I live in my 369RL during the week. It's permanently parked in a RV Park that has become my home away from home. I've had the Solitude for a little over 4 months after owning another for a couple of years. Last Friday I lost water pressure for my cold water lines. I didn't lose pressure for hot water so this one stumped me. Not really knowing where to start I contacted a RV service company here on the site to see if they could figure this one out. He came out and briefly did some checking around and said he'd probably reach out to Grand Design to see if there were some check valves on line that he couldn't find. While we were talking on the phone he mentioned he started to check the lines today but someone had come out to the park to work on the well. That got me thinking and I decided to do a little research on my own. First step was to open up the panel in the basement to see if I could figure out the waterlines. Have any of you done this? Wow, looks like a pile of spaghetti. Lines going everywhere. After looking at the system I started wondering if I was seeing something I didn't like. The main line coming into the RV splits in several directions with one of the lines working it's way to the canister filter which I assumed was online for the whole system. I opened up the canister and sure enough problem solved! The filter was totally clogged with sediment. I replaced the filter and low and behold I have cold water again. I'm a little embarrassed to be admitting that I overlooked this from the get go but there's a reason for me not checking it and it's now my overall concern. The reason I didn't check the filter was because I assumed (yes, I know what that means) the filter system was online for the whole water system NOT just a portion of it. Based on that assumption if the filter was clogged then I wouldn't have any water pressure, hot or cold. Apparently this isn't the case. So what this tells me is that the cold water to my kitchen sink (?) is filtered but possibly nothing else? Why? If you look at the box for a new filter it states the following: reduces the following contaminants - chlorine, RUST, SEDIMENT, TASTE and ODOR, Cryptosporidium, Giardia Cysts, Volatile Organic Chemicals, Cysts. So the other lines don't need to be protected from this? Based on what happened this weekend I'm now going to assume my water heater is probably full of sediment and will now need to be flushed. I'll also be purchasing an online filter for the main waterline to the RV, which is an expense I didn't expect since there's one built in. This also explains why I occasionally get an odor in the RV when I turn the hot water one. I'll also have to be careful when I fill the water tank as it will most likely be unfiltered.

Overall I've been pleased with the Solitude. Most of the issues I've had were minor and I've been able to either fix them myself or the Dealer has been able to fix them. This one is really disappointing and I felt I needed to share this.

Hi @Don and Jean,

CLARIFICATION! All water coming in through the city water fill is filtered. Filtered water (from the city fill) is used to fill the hot water tank, therefore your hot water is filtered water. The only exception is water pulled from the fresh water tank if it was filled through the gravity fill. Gravity fill water does not go through the filter.

01/23/15 @ 5:29 pm - Editing my reply as what was posted above is incorrect. Janice

CLARIFICATION! All water coming in - city water fill or gravity fill - is filtered if your unit has the Anderson Kantleak and a factory-installed water filter. Filtered water is used to fill the hot water tank, therefore your hot water is filtered water.

When your valve position is on winterize, and the inlet becomes a suction line you should always remove your filter as it will be contaminated with RV antifreeze.

Any residue or particles in the hot water tank most likely indicate a corroded anode rod, which should be pulled and periodically inspected.

Best regards,
~ Janice