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  1. #21
    Seasoned Camper Big Blue's Avatar
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    2019 230RL Reflection ..... 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins still pulling just as hard as the day I brought her home November 1995...3.6 Onan. 2 battleborns 300 watts solar, 1500 watt aims inverter....(Convictions are a far greater foe of truth than lies) {Nietztche}

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blue View Post
    Outside remove the lower panel... on the circuit board unplug the wire to the thermister...if the fridge cools down overnight.. replace the thermister.. I would guess some tech attached the thermister to the ceiling rather than replace it.
    I could be wrong but I believe on the Dometic RM 1350 if you unplug the thermistor it won’t default to continuous cooling but will instead think the unit has failed and shutdown. I believe the way to test it is to run a thermistor outside of the fridge therefore it will never sense it getting cold. Also the ceiling inside the fridge is the correct placement for it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dometic RM1350 Troubleshooting Flowchart.pdf  
    Last edited by Justa5th; 05-25-2020 at 09:56 PM.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

  3. #23
    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justa5th View Post
    I could be wrong but I believe on the Dometic RM 1350 if you unplug the thermistor it won’t default to continuous cooling but will instead think the unit has failed and shutdown. I believe the way to test it is to run a thermistor outside of the fridge therefore it will never sense it getting cold. Also the ceiling inside the fridge is the correct placement for it.
    How would you test it outside the fridge? The wire isn’t long enough to reach outside the door.
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
    Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
    2019 F350 Lariat (Diesel) 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
    Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
    Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

  4. #24
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richter View Post
    How would you test it outside the fridge? The wire isn’t long enough to reach outside the door.
    Haven’t tried it myself but I believe the easiest to do is buy a second one (that is what I have seen mentioned by several others). Unplug the original and leave it in place, plug in the new one outside.

    I believe you can also use an ohm meter to confirm yours is working. I saw a chart that shows temp vs ohms. I’ll see if I can dig it up.

    I don’t want to post the link but if you type in “dometic thermistor ohm chart”
    You will see directions on how to test it.

    As I understand it a failed thermistor will usually default to allowing the fridge to run non stop.
    Last edited by Justa5th; 05-25-2020 at 10:26 PM.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

  5. #25
    Seasoned Camper Big Blue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justa5th View Post
    I could be wrong but I believe on the Dometic RM 1350 if you unplug the thermistor it won’t default to continuous cooling but will instead think the unit has failed and shutdown. I believe the way to test it is to run a thermistor outside of the fridge therefore it will never sense it getting cold. Also the ceiling inside the fridge is the correct placement for it.
    You are correct RM1350 will not run with thermister disconnected.... I didn't notice that we were no longer talking about a Reflection 230RL...
    2019 230RL Reflection ..... 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins still pulling just as hard as the day I brought her home November 1995...3.6 Onan. 2 battleborns 300 watts solar, 1500 watt aims inverter....(Convictions are a far greater foe of truth than lies) {Nietztche}

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justa5th View Post
    I could be wrong but I believe on the Dometic RM 1350 if you unplug the thermistor it won’t default to continuous cooling but will instead think the unit has failed and shutdown. I believe the way to test it is to run a thermistor outside of the fridge therefore it will never sense it getting cold. Also the ceiling inside the fridge is the correct placement for it.
    Is this flowchart a document that was produced/provided by Dometic?

    Thanks
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
    Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
    2019 F350 Lariat (Diesel) 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
    Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
    Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

  7. #27
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richter View Post
    Is this flowchart a document that was produced/provided by Dometic?

    Thanks
    I honestly do not know. Stumbled upon it on another site that had lots of resources for repair of different rv items.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

  8. #28
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richter View Post
    I just took my rig to the dealer, yesterday, for a fan bracket replacement. While there, I spoke to the tech and told him that the freezer doesn’t stay cold enough. It often got up to 20 degrees during the heat of summer last year. We talked about the only sensor being in the fridge, and when it is cold enough, the whole unit shuts off. The freezer then warms up faster than the fridge, and that’s an issue. While he had it out to repair the fans, he did some poking around the freezer area.

    He said that the upper baffle (metal, above the unit, not the wood one at the wall) wasn’t installed correctly. There was a small gap between it and the top of the freezer. He said that with that small gap, hot air was actually being forced over the top of the freezer and staying against the roof of the unit, which then warmed up the freezer much sooner than it should.

    He said that he was able to bend the baffle so that it was in contact with the roof of the freezer, and that he had put some metal tape over the area, to ensure that it was fully sealed. He said that there should now be a smooth flow of air up behind the fridge and freezer and out the upper vent. I will be plugging it in tomorrow to see if it keeps things cooler.
    I did the same thing. I rebuilt the baffling from the top of the fridge to the top of the vent. Such refrigerators must also have a fan pushing air out the top. In Summer, the refrigerators put out an incredible amount of heat. My temps are very stable year round too.

  9. #29
    Fireside Member
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    This is very common issue when frig can not vent heat directly overhead, some GD's, my 2607MK is one, could have vented thru roof but chose not to.
    If you go on refrig mfg's site and find the actual install directions you will see the baffle referred to below.
    My old Sporttrek actually never installed any kind of baffle, that is how I discovered it, looking for answer to hot frig.
    I first upgraded insulation all around frig, used pink foam and FG all around. Then fabed a tight fitting baffle and added a second fan.
    Helped a lot but adding a small fan that circulated air all the time inside frig made the biggest difference. I wired it into 12V feed to door light before door switch.
    Hope this helps.
    Tim in NC

    Quote Originally Posted by Richter View Post
    I just took my rig to the dealer, yesterday, for a fan bracket replacement. While there, I spoke to the tech and told him that the freezer doesn’t stay cold enough. It often got up to 20 degrees during the heat of summer last year. We talked about the only sensor being in the fridge, and when it is cold enough, the whole unit shuts off. The freezer then warms up faster than the fridge, and that’s an issue. While he had it out to repair the fans, he did some poking around the freezer area.

    He said that the upper baffle (metal, above the unit, not the wood one at the wall) wasn’t installed correctly. There was a small gap between it and the top of the freezer. He said that with that small gap, hot air was actually being forced over the top of the freezer and staying against the roof of the unit, which then warmed up the freezer much sooner than it should.

    He said that he was able to bend the baffle so that it was in contact with the roof of the freezer, and that he had put some metal tape over the area, to ensure that it was fully sealed. He said that there should now be a smooth flow of air up behind the fridge and freezer and out the upper vent. I will be plugging it in tomorrow to see if it keeps things cooler.

  10. #30
    Left The Driveway Canmannc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim-o-w4yn View Post
    This is very common issue when frig can not vent heat directly overhead, some GD's, my 2607MK is one, could have vented thru roof but chose not to.
    If you go on refrig mfg's site and find the actual install directions you will see the baffle referred to below.
    My old Sporttrek actually never installed any kind of baffle, that is how I discovered it, looking for answer to hot frig.
    I first upgraded insulation all around frig, used pink foam and FG all around. Then fabed a tight fitting baffle and added a second fan.
    Helped a lot but adding a small fan that circulated air all the time inside frig made the biggest difference. I wired it into 12V feed to door light before door switch.
    Hope this helps.
    Tim in NC
    I feel your pain. I just pulled my 2020 Norcold 1210 12CF out today. It's not in the slide it's in the back. My new Samsung 18CF residential will be delivered to my house Friday. PD 1000W Invertor with built in auto transfer switch and 200Amp fuse and cables will be here tomorrow.

    I bought my 2020 Reflection 320MKS 5th wheel 1st of Dec. Between DW hip replacement and COVID I have researched and troubleshot and had $250 worth of techs on it. Temps up, down all over the place. Norcold tech service not much help. She (DW) was NOT having it! Tired of messing with it. Don't boondock much but when I do I have the generator.
    So I just advertised it for sale $2500 (they sell for $3600-4000!) Still 6-7 months warranty left. I'll be ready to go by Sunday!

    Good luck with yours though! I'm sure the right tech will figure it out and fix it.
    2021 Silverado 2500HD
    2020 Reflection 320MKS
    2006 Sandpiper - Gone! 2005 Silverado 2500HD - Gone!
    2017 Fleetwood Flair - Gone!

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