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  1. #51
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Pelion, SC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richter View Post
    I just took my rig to the dealer, yesterday, for a fan bracket replacement. While there, I spoke to the tech and told him that the freezer doesn’t stay cold enough. It often got up to 20 degrees during the heat of summer last year. We talked about the only sensor being in the fridge, and when it is cold enough, the whole unit shuts off. The freezer then warms up faster than the fridge, and that’s an issue. While he had it out to repair the fans, he did some poking around the freezer area.

    He said that the upper baffle (metal, above the unit, not the wood one at the wall) wasn’t installed correctly. There was a small gap between it and the top of the freezer. He said that with that small gap, hot air was actually being forced over the top of the freezer and staying against the roof of the unit, which then warmed up the freezer much sooner than it should.

    He said that he was able to bend the baffle so that it was in contact with the roof of the freezer, and that he had put some metal tape over the area, to ensure that it was fully sealed. He said that there should now be a smooth flow of air up behind the fridge and freezer and out the upper vent. I will be plugging it in tomorrow to see if it keeps things cooler.
    We had similar issues with the Dometic DM2882 in our 2021 295RL - struggled to get fridge temps down to 40; temps would go to near 50 during the day. Moved thermistor around - no improvement.

    Took it to the dealer for service/testing; they proclaimed it working properly. After reading other posts on this forum, I did a little investigation and modifications of my own. I found that, like Richter, the area above the fridge was open; I didn't try to bend the metal baffle, but I did stuff it full of fiberglass insulation. I also ordered another cooling fan like the one in back of the fridge (Sunon, $14.98 online from some place in TX) and installed it myself, increasing the air flow from 75 cfm to 150 cfm.

    On the next trip out, the fridge did okay, but we monitored and limited the times, and for how long, the door was open. Managed to get temps into the 30's, and they only went up to about 42 degrees during the day. Went out again last week, and the fridge didn't perform as well as I'd like, but it did do okay - night time temps in the low 30's, but up to about 45 during the day. That said, we're in SC, and this summer has been hotter and more humid than the Devil's armpit.

    We're gonna give it a little more time and see if we can get it to work better. If not, I'll replace it with a compressor fridge. That will be at my expense, however, because I've already discovered that I will get no help from Dometic or my dealer.
    Hope this info helps someone else.

    Mike
    Last edited by Longshhm; 09-03-2020 at 06:27 PM.
    Mike 🏌️⛳️
    2017 Ram 2500 CC, 6.7L Cummins Diesel 🐏
    2022 Solitude S-Class 2930RL-R
    Full-time since 8/9/21

  2. #52
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Pelion, SC
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    143
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    Quote Originally Posted by driller View Post
    It is a Furrion 10 cf. 12volt compressor fridge. It fit in the original hole with no modifications. Had to run a designated wire run from the batteries. Ran 8ga wire.
    r
    Driller,
    What kind of wire (I see 8ga) did you use, how did you route it, and how is it hooked up (especially on the battery end). What you've done sounds like where I'm headed. Thanks.

    M
    Mike 🏌️⛳️
    2017 Ram 2500 CC, 6.7L Cummins Diesel 🐏
    2022 Solitude S-Class 2930RL-R
    Full-time since 8/9/21

  3. #53
    Fireside Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    On my Sportrec the fridge in slide out was never baffled or insulated properly. Lots of air space around sides and top of fridge and slide out would get real hot in sun.
    First thing I did was pull fridge out and packed pink foam all around so no air gaps almost 2 inches of foam on top!
    I redid baffle per mfg specs I used aluminum flashing. Installed a second fan on condenser with a thermo switch set to come on a few degrees higher than stock switch.
    All that helped but fan on inside of fridge blowing up on cooling fins made the biggest difference, I used 80mm PC 12 fan wired into supply circuit to interior light runs all the time.
    All I had to do on my 2670MK was but fan on inside and it works fine even in 5 degree heat.

    Tim in NC 2670MK

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