User Tag List

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst ... 3456 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 53
  1. #41
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    27
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a 29RS. 8cf fridge in slideout. No problems now. I did have problems with it lighting on gas but new control valve fixed that. Fridge stays in 30's most of the time and freezer, well 5-10 is about it.
    Bill Skinner, Buford GA
    2015 Reflection 29 RS
    2019 Ford F250 gas; 4.3 Diff

  2. #42
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    South Jordan, Utah
    Posts
    3
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It is a Furrion 10 cf. 12volt compressor fridge. It fit in the original hole with no modifications. Had to run a designated wire run from the batteries. Ran 8ga wire.
    r

  3. #43
    Left The Driveway
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Clarkston, MI
    Posts
    14
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi Big Blue, do you have pics of your baffle install? just curious how you did that. Did you place the flashing in the lower vent or upper?
    2018 Solitude 375RES
    Reese Goosebox
    2020 Ford F-450 Platinum
    Clarkston, MI

  4. #44
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    103
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by tim-o-w4yn View Post
    This is very common issue when frig can not vent heat directly overhead, some GD's, my 2607MK is one, could have vented thru roof but chose not to.
    If you go on refrig mfg's site and find the actual install directions you will see the baffle referred to below.
    My old Sporttrek actually never installed any kind of baffle, that is how I discovered it, looking for answer to hot frig.
    I first upgraded insulation all around frig, used pink foam and FG all around. Then fabed a tight fitting baffle and added a second fan.
    Helped a lot but adding a small fan that circulated air all the time inside frig made the biggest difference. I wired it into 12V feed to door light before door switch.
    Hope this helps.
    Tim in NC
    I have the same RV. Do you have a link to the inside fan you used or how to wire it into the door light? I'll be going to SC next, so I want to be prepared. By the way did your upper baffle look like this? I added some fiberglass insulation on top of the fridge as it had none. I need to add some above the upper baffle too. I think the upper baffle is recessed to far back and was considering bending it so the edge touching the top of the fridge is closer to the back of the fridge. I also removed the baffle under the fins, but may add it back since it's supposed to direct the air from the fan towards the fins. Did you leave yours in place?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200525_164327218.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	88.5 KB 
ID:	27238
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20200525_163756518.jpg 
Views:	29 
Size:	85.0 KB 
ID:	27239
    2020 Imagine Mk2670
    Tow vehicle - 2020 Chevy Silverado 2500 6.6L Gas

  5. #45
    Seasoned Camper Big Blue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    213
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by greg2123neis View Post
    Hi Big Blue, do you have pics of your baffle install? just curious how you did that. Did you place the flashing in the lower vent or upper?
    Sorry no Pics, as I have no interest in learning how to post them... to old I guess! I got a roll of flashing and used the natural curve of the metal flashing... from the top of the fridge to the top of the upper vent....Used to pieces two fit through the opening.... left the wood baffle in place.... I have a cheap metal brake / bender to help match the angles from the top of the fridge to the slideout wall just above the upper vent....... (maybe it would be easier to post pics) I got a greater improvement from the flashing than from an extra fan... although I recommend both....
    Last edited by Big Blue; 06-12-2020 at 04:42 PM. Reason: spelling
    2019 230RL Reflection ..... 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins still pulling just as hard as the day I brought her home November 1995...3.6 Onan. 2 battleborns 300 watts solar, 1500 watt aims inverter....(Convictions are a far greater foe of truth than lies) {Nietztche}

  6. #46
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    18
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Have a 2014 295 Reflection and quite enjoying it. Took for a test run the other day and problems with the fridge not staying lit on propane. Little did I know but apparently it is a common problem with propane in these fridges that the igniter / thermocouple will not stay lit. Clicks several times lights while clicking and then goes out. YouTube and a knowledgeable relative said there is a spider .... Yes SPIDER , that likes propane, goes up and blocks the unit some how. By blowing air (Do not use anything flammable like computer screen dust cleaner!!) into and along the igniter and up into the cylinder above the igniter .... it blows the spider and blockage out. Fridge now works like it is supposed to. Clicks, ignites and stays lit .... cools the fridge down very well when working properly. Look up You Tube and you will see the information ! Serious about the spider issue. Have a great summer. Den !

  7. #47
    Seasoned Camper Big Blue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    213
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blue View Post
    Sorry no Pics, as I have no interest in learning how to post them... to old I guess! I got a roll of flashing and used the natural curve of the metal flashing... from the top of the fridge to the top of the upper vent....Used to pieces two fit through the opening.... left the wood baffle in place.... I have a cheap metal brake / bender to help match the angles from the top of the fridge to the slideout wall just above the upper vent....... (maybe it would be easier to post pics) I got a greater improvement from the flashing than from an extra fan... although I recommend both....
    Update.... also I removed the thermister from the inside fins and duck taped as high as possible on fridge wall... Camped this summer with fridge Temp. selector on "4" kept fridge temp. in mid 30's until outside temps. hit mid 90's then switched to "5"... beer still cold & ice cream firm....
    2019 230RL Reflection ..... 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins still pulling just as hard as the day I brought her home November 1995...3.6 Onan. 2 battleborns 300 watts solar, 1500 watt aims inverter....(Convictions are a far greater foe of truth than lies) {Nietztche}

  8. #48
    Fireside Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    61
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a Dometic 1350 in my 260RD. I had major cooling issues due to lack of insulation and bad baffle install. GD fixed both under warranty. I recently discovered the door latches are not very effective. You have to make a very deliberate effort to close the doors. I think this was causing cooling issues when traveling.
    2021 Reflection 150 Series 295RL
    2018 GMC Sierra SLE 2500HD Crew Cab Standard Bed Duramax
    B&W Companion Hitch

  9. #49
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    103
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What's the general consensus for the biggest improvement in cooling? Another fan under condenser fins, a fan inside fridge or both? I have a mk2670 and am Currently in SC. The back of the camper takes a beating from the sun and I'm looking to improve the efficiency. The current single fan always runs.

  10. #50
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    103
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by tim-o-w4yn View Post
    This is very common issue when frig can not vent heat directly overhead, some GD's, my 2607MK is one, could have vented thru roof but chose not to.
    If you go on refrig mfg's site and find the actual install directions you will see the baffle referred to below.
    My old Sporttrek actually never installed any kind of baffle, that is how I discovered it, looking for answer to hot frig.
    I first upgraded insulation all around frig, used pink foam and FG all around. Then fabed a tight fitting baffle and added a second fan.
    Helped a lot but adding a small fan that circulated air all the time inside frig made the biggest difference. I wired it into 12V feed to door light before door switch.
    Hope this helps.
    Tim in NC

    I also have a mk2670. Which baffle did you fix, the wood or metal one above the fridge? Did the metal one on yours curve back about a foot from the edge of the fridge and then touch the top of it. Mine does and had no insulation on top of the fridge. All dead space in front of that metal curved baffle, above it and behind it. I'm in SC and the back of the camper takes a beating from the sun. What brand of fan did you add to the outside and inside, and did you splice it into the Original fan wires to work with the thermostat ss far as the outside fan that is? How did you wire the inside one to the light switch to always stay on all the time if the light only comes on when you open the fridge?
    I know I need to add more insulation on top and probably a fan inside as well. Sorry for all the questions, just curious.

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst ... 3456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.