Trailer braking is weak... maybe?

[tamrick]

Late response here but my 2019 351M had grease on 3 of the drums when I swapped to discs. I guess I had worn it enough that the grease was only piled up on the leading edge of the shoe as the surface was not oily. Grease appeared to be a green color. Good to hear your efforts paid off!

[droundtree]

Adjusted... hm. When I bought it last August, the dealer supposedly 'checked' the brakes. Not sure what that means though. I can call and ask them what they usually do with their used trailer inspection. Since it's a safety issue, they may want to check it again. Thanks!

I have a 369RSL. I had quite a time with this issue because my dealer (Windish RV) supposedly "checked" the brakes as well. Had it in the shop twice and they said they were "perfect", had the tow vehicle back to the dealer twice. On the second visit the Dodge dealer proved it wasn't their truck by removing the pin from the breakaway switch and you could still pull the trailer, no brake resistance. Had an independent trailer shop adjust the brakes and problem solved. I went after the dealer for all the time and money I spent from them lying to me. However, I went through a set of brakes every season (we pull it about 10-15,000 miles a year loaded close to the 16,000 lb maximum). We had the 7000 lb axles with 10 X 2 brakes replaced with 8000 lb axles and 10 X 3 brakes and they were so good I flat spotted one tire and my controller adjustment went from 7.5 to 4.5. On the second season and only half of the lining gone. It also cured my suspension issues (broken brackets).

Conclusions:
1) Windish RV sucks.
2) If you are going to load a 369RSL to the full 16k rating you're either getting new axles or buying a lot of brake jobs and shackles.
3) That "pull the pin" test is a pretty good way to figure out whether your problem is the brake controller or the trailer brakes.

[Ynot4me2]

I have a 369RSL. I had quite a time with this issue because my dealer (Windish RV) supposedly "checked" the brakes as well. Had it in the shop twice and they said they were "perfect", had the tow vehicle back to the dealer twice. On the second visit the Dodge dealer proved it wasn't their truck by removing the pin from the breakaway switch and you could still pull the trailer, no brake resistance. Had an independent trailer shop adjust the brakes and problem solved. I went after the dealer for all the time and money I spent from them lying to me. However, I went through a set of brakes every season (we pull it about 10-15,000 miles a year loaded close to the 16,000 lb maximum). We had the 7000 lb axles with 10 X 2 brakes replaced with 8000 lb axles and 10 X 3 brakes and they were so good I flat spotted one tire and my controller adjustment went from 7.5 to 4.5. On the second season and only half of the lining gone. It also cured my suspension issues (broken brackets).

Conclusions:
1) Windish RV sucks.
2) If you are going to load a 369RSL to the full 16k rating you're either getting new axles or buying a lot of brake jobs and shackles.
3) That "pull the pin" test is a pretty good way to figure out whether your problem is the brake controller or the trailer brakes.

That pull the pin is a really good test. Never thought of that.

[bryancass]

Yes to your first question, that’s the factory set up.

Yes to your second question.

To do this you’ll need 30ft of marine jacketed 14/2 wire. I bought mine at a boat/marine store for $1 a foot. Not the metal shielded one. It’s looks just like the One GD uses but it’s probably white. You’ll also need some 3M 314 connectors, same thing GD uses. I bought a 50 pack cause that’s what amazon had, but I’d get atleast 15 if you want to tidy up any factory stuff or make a couple mistakes like I did. These are great connectors, gel filled and no stripping. They are rated 14-22 gauge, but 10-12ga fits if you strip the insulation.

The wiring is kinda simple, just a lot of steps. Look at the pic below, the thick blue is the brake wire from the truck, the black is the wire from the emergency disconnect. The small blue the factory 14ga that runs to the rear. You use the 314’s and some jumper wires to create the second leg.

[...]

Is this the marine wire you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/AWG-Duplex-Fl...dp/B0882ZJT8P/

And is this the connectors?
https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Connecto...dp/B076ZX1N46/

[Flip94ta]

Is this the marine wire you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/AWG-Duplex-Fl...dp/B0882ZJT8P/

And is this the connectors?
https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Connecto...dp/B076ZX1N46/

Yes except you will need atleast 20’ to be safe.

Yes those are the connectors.

[bryancass]

Just to update this thread, I pulled the drums off the other day and grease was all over the inside, including the shoes. I called LCI and asked whether this was something they covered under a warranty, and he said they did cover it for a couple years from 2016-2018, but by now the bearings should have been repacked a couple times since then. So whoever packed them the last time would be at fault. That would be the dealer who sold it to me last summer.

So I wrote and sent them pictures of the brakes and then called. They are ordering all 4 backing assemblies and offered to install them. I said after what happened already, I'd rather install them myself. I'm going to pick them up this week and do the work this weekend.

I also ordered the 14/2 marine duplex wire and Scotchlok 314 connectors to rewire the curb-side brakes, replacing the 16 ga. wire with 14 ga.

Question: What grease are we using these days on our trailers? I know LCI went to a better grease (he told me they use "red" grease now, whatever that is) to fix this issue. Does anyone know what that is?

Thanks!

[FT4NOW]

Glad they are taking care of you. Prob a good idea to fix it yourself as well. Personally, I use Lucas Oil Red N Tacky No 2 grease. I've used it exclusively on my Momentum, I replaced all the original bearings and installed Morryde wet bolts. Make sure to get a good bearing inspection done while you're in there. Also, a lesson learned, make sure you dont accidentally pinch the brake wires with the brake assemblies when you install them (that caused a short on my brake circuit that took longer than I wanted to chase down).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Ynot4me2]

Do you replace all of the wiring with the 14/2 marine duplex, meaning from battery to street and then curb side or just street to curb side?

[bryancass]

Do you replace all of the wiring with the 14/2 marine duplex, meaning from battery to street and then curb side or just street to curb side?

I believe the plan is to run the wire from the junction box on the right-front frame back to the curb-side magnets, cutting and bypassing the 16ga. wire that goes through the axle from the street-side.

I'll know more once I get the wire delivered and get under the trailer to do it.

[bryancass]

One side is done! I'll work on the other side tonight.

First I pulled the drums and backer assemblies off - cutting the wires to the magnet. I soaked the bearings in paint thinner while cleaning the hubs and spindles with paint thinner and then with brake cleaner. After the bearings were degreased, I repacked with Lucas Red N Tacky #2 red grease, coated the spindle and inside of the hub and races with grease, then reassembled with new inner seals. I mounted the new LCI backer assemblies to the axle and torqued to 60 ft. lbs. Then installed the drums back onto the spindle. Tighten the castle nut with a wrench and a spin the drum a few times, then back off the nut again. Re-tighten until there is barely in/out play in the bearings, that goes away when you tighten the nut one more 'opening', and insert the new cotter pin at that point where there is no more play. Then I adjusted the brakes with a screwdriver so that the shoes are just touching the drum when I spin it. Done!

Then I tackled rewiring the curb-side brakes. Following Flip94ta's instructions, I first ran the 14/2 marine wire under the Coroplast from the rear axle to the conduit, and through that to the junction box at the front of the frame. You have to pinch and pull the plastic clamp the wires go through to push up the doohickey that's pinching the wires, to make room for the positive 14/2 wire. The yellow wire from the axle gets a ring terminal and goes around outside the box and attaches to an existing ground screw next to the junction box. I had to under the self-tapping screws all along that side to reach in and pull the wire. Then cut the 3M connector with two blue and one black in it and basically made a "Y" from both the blue and black wires coming in from the front of the trailer. The existing blue to the street side and new red wire I ran from the back axle each get a blue and black wire attached with new 3M connectors. So the junction box is done. At the axles, I cut a slit in the Coroplast above each axle and threaded the 14/2 down through it, with a "T" off of it to the front axle and terminating at the rear axle. I reused the old 3M connectors by pulling out the top, resetting the metal pieces into the top and putting more silicone grease inside.

The only question I had while reconnecting to the new green brake wires is -- is there any difference which wire gets positive and which gets negative? I assume not since both brake wires are the same color.