Grey Tank Lever Stuck

**Chillier** · 05-23-2020, 07:14 AM

We took our brand new Reflection 297RSTS out of storage yesterday to dewinterize and encountered a couple problems.
The pull lever for the grey waste water seems to be stuck and won’t open. Has anyone experienced that before?
Also, for those of you that camp in Ontario provincial parks, how do you fill your fresh water tank? From our experience at the fill station, the end of the water hoses are just cut off hose with no threaded nozzle to thread onto the fill port on the trailer.
I am sure we will have more questions once we are able to actually use the trailer overnight somewhere.
Chillier

**Bungy** · 05-23-2020, 07:26 AM

Originally Posted by Chillier

We took our brand new Reflection 297RSTS out of storage yesterday to dewinterize and encountered a couple problems.
The pull lever for the grey waste water seems to be stuck and won’t open. Has anyone experienced that before?
Also, for those of you that camp in Ontario provincial parks, how do you fill your fresh water tank? From our experience at the fill station, the end of the water hoses are just cut off hose with no threaded nozzle to thread onto the fill port on the trailer.
I am sure we will have more questions once we are able to actually use the trailer overnight somewhere.
Chillier

Are you talking about the water at the dump station? If so I wouldn’t fill the fresh water tank with it, it’s usually non potable.

**WhittleBurner** · 05-23-2020, 08:40 AM

Our experience with a lot of state parks they will have both potable and non potable at the dump stations and our well marked.

**Bungy** · 05-23-2020, 08:43 AM

Originally Posted by WhittleBurner

Our experience with a lot of state parks they will have both potable and non potable at the dump stations and our well marked.

The OP was talking about provincial parks in Canada, a little different up here.

**J&J___** · 05-23-2020, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by Chillier

We took our brand new Reflection 297RSTS out of storage yesterday to dewinterize and encountered a couple problems.
The pull lever for the grey waste water seems to be stuck and won’t open. Has anyone experienced that before?
Chillier

Yes dump valves and cables do get stuck. If you search this forum you will find threads about this problem and some solutions. Most likely you need to take it back to the dealer and have the valve replaced.

**FT4NOW** · 05-23-2020, 09:51 AM

If you are handy, you can replace the dump valve yourself. It's not terribly difficult, I've done 2 of mine. If it's under warranty and the dealer doesnt have a back log before they can get to you, then have the dealer do it. If they do the repair for you, ask them to use Valterra valves. The valves GD uses dont have replaceable cables whereas the Valterra valve cables can be replaced without removing the valve itself. Good if this happens again down the road.

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**J&J___** · 05-23-2020, 11:44 AM

Originally Posted by FT4NOW

If you are handy, you can replace the dump valve yourself. It's not terribly difficult, I've done 2 of mine. If it's under warranty and the dealer doesnt have a back log before they can get to you, then have the dealer do it. If they do the repair for you, ask them to use Valterra valves. The valves GD uses dont have replaceable cables whereas the Valterra valve cables can be replaced without removing the valve itself. Good if this happens again down the road.

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Since you have replaced valves do you have any tips on doing it. I have a failed kitchen dump valve/cable that needs to be replaced. Might have a mobile repair guy to do it but that might not pan out. GD sent me a 3” Bristol valve and cable with glue on couplers for new construction. I assume I don’t need the glue on couplers. It looks like a straight forward installation but just a pain. Empty the basement, drop the belly cover, take the back wall out of the basement to access plumbing area, remove the cable and old valve, remove the new valve from the glue on couplers, replace the old valve, run the cable back through plumbing area and put it all back together. Did I miss anything?

**FT4NOW** · 05-23-2020, 06:34 PM

Originally Posted by J&J___

Since you have replaced valves do you have any tips on doing it. I have a failed kitchen dump valve/cable that needs to be replaced. Might have a mobile repair guy to do it but that might not pan out. GD sent me a 3” Bristol valve and cable with glue on couplers for new construction. I assume I don’t need the glue on couplers. It looks like a straight forward installation but just a pain. Empty the basement, drop the belly cover, take the back wall out of the basement to access plumbing area, remove the cable and old valve, remove the new valve from the glue on couplers, replace the old valve, run the cable back through plumbing area and put it all back together. Did I miss anything?

I think you got the basics. I bought a disposable tarp and tyvek suit to wear. I rolled up the reflectix insulation above the coroplast and then laid down the disposable tarp. You dont need to use new flanges, the Valterra flanges are the same size, make sure to use new seals. The biggest advice to ensure no leaks is to break out the sawzall, yes you read that correct. If you cut a straight line down and basically separate the manifold that connects all the piping you will be able to properly get the valve back together. I didnt follow someone else's advice to do this and my valve seal leaked. To repair the cut, use a rubber pipe coupling, it is made for non-pressurized sewer lines so it's perfect. I actually have 3 of these couplings because of how I had to break up my sewer manifold, but they work great and dont leak. Separating the manifold allows you to move the valves around to get the seal to sit correctly, it is a huge time saver, otherwise you will be wrestling with everything trying to get it all lined up.

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**J&J___** · 05-23-2020, 06:38 PM

Originally Posted by FT4NOW

I think you got the basics. I bought a disposable tarp and tyvek suit to wear. I rolled up the reflectix insulation above the coroplast and then laid down the disposable tarp. You dont need to use new flanges, the Valterra flanges are the same size, make sure to use new seals. The biggest advice to ensure no leaks is to break out the sawzall, yes you read that correct. If you cut a straight line down and basically separate the manifold that connects all the piping you will be able to properly get the valve back together. I didnt follow someone else's advice to do this and my valve seal leaked. To repair the cut, use a rubber pipe coupling, it is made for non-pressurized sewer lines so it's perfect. I actually have 3 of these couplings because of how I had to break up my sewer manifold, but they work great and dont leak. Separating the manifold allows you to move the valves around to get the seal to sit correctly, it is a huge time saver, otherwise you will be wrestling with everything trying to get it all lined up.

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Thanks for the info