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  1. #1
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    Dometic fridge with no power

    Just returned from a trip, plugged the trailer back into AC and the fridge control box is dead completely, not just an issue with the gas not firing. On/off switch does nothing. Tried holding various buttons down to see if there was a reset or something, nada.

    Checked panel breaker and 12v, both are fine. Checked AC and DC to rear panel behind the cover, both are nominal going into the board. Checked both obvious exposed fuses, there's a 5amp glass fuse on the panel and a 3amp inside a 12v wire and both were fine.

    Anything else I can easily check (and fix if its dead) before I make an appointment with the dealer?

  2. #2
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    So did some more digging and found a thermal cutoff behind some heat tape. No voltage! Looks like the culprit. 152C TCO axial leads, so just ordered some on Amazon here's hoping it'll be that simple!

  3. #3
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    It sounds like you may have solved the problem. I'm suprised no one gave you some advice on what to check.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    It sounds like you may have solved the problem. I'm suprised no one gave you some advice on what to check.
    Parts came in - replaced the TCO and voila! Back in business.

    Mine is a 2882 model - here are the parts I used:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BVWPKK/



    Looking into the construction a bit more, I feel like this TCO was placed a bit too close to the flame, any minor variation due to light wind through the back panel or slight angles and it would blow. It's a very 'imprecise' piece where the cable is just held in place by a bracket - seems easy to misplace the fuse so its almost right next to the burner and will just burn out eventually.

  5. #5
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    I just want to say thank you for figuring this out! I too have a DM2882.

    Had the exact same issues after parking my rig. Fridge was on when we left and no power when we arrived. Checked the normal fuses, breakers and nothing. Came across this thread and checked the TCO fuse and sure enough multimeter proved it was dead. For good measure I tossed a jumper on it and the unit started up.Click image for larger version. 

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    Found a replacement through a supplier that we use at our work. Since the amazon link shared above was no longer available, here is what I purchased. Looked to be the same specs as what was posted earlier.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...136-ND/1014765

  6. #6
    Fireside Member azink007's Avatar
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    Thank you both for your help! Our fridge lost power in the same way on day 1 of an 8 day trip. Likely due to 110F WX in traffic in Arizona. Thanks to this tip, I shorted the TCO and the fridge fired right back up! Shorting is not permanent but will do for now. I’ll order the replacement part on our return.

    Thanks again!
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  7. #7
    Left The Driveway
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    So I have the same fridge and exact same issue. I order some fuses but tried to direct wire in the mean time. I made a connector on each side of the wire after removing the fuse, and when powered on it reads 14 dc volts but the panel inside the fridge still has no response. Do I have to have a fuse in order to make it work? I also replaced the main panel thinking that may have been the issue before I found your thread.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snwbdr94 View Post
    I just want to say thank you for figuring this out! I too have a DM2882.

    Had the exact same issues after parking my rig. Fridge was on when we left and no power when we arrived. Checked the normal fuses, breakers and nothing. Came across this thread and checked the TCO fuse and sure enough multimeter proved it was dead. For good measure I tossed a jumper on it and the unit started up.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200629_170304.jpg 
Views:	41 
Size:	95.0 KB 
ID:	27648

    Found a replacement through a supplier that we use at our work. Since the amazon link shared above was no longer available, here is what I purchased. Looked to be the same specs as what was posted earlier.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...136-ND/1014765
    I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to see if you know what thermal fuse is used for the water heater?

    Thanks

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlakKnight View Post
    Parts came in - replaced the TCO and voila! Back in business.

    Mine is a 2882 model - here are the parts I used:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BVWPKK/



    Looking into the construction a bit more, I feel like this TCO was placed a bit too close to the flame, any minor variation due to light wind through the back panel or slight angles and it would blow. It's a very 'imprecise' piece where the cable is just held in place by a bracket - seems easy to misplace the fuse so its almost right next to the burner and will just burn out eventually.
    I am having the same problem with my Dometic 2882. Did you relocate the thermal fuse to resolve the issue or is it just a matter of keeping spare thermal fuses on hand?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJS1980 View Post
    I am having the same problem with my Dometic 2882. Did you relocate the thermal fuse to resolve the issue or is it just a matter of keeping spare thermal fuses on hand?
    I have the same question on modified relocation of the thermal fuse. First trip out with brand new 2022 17MKE, fuse blew, and shorted it to get it working on shore power. Is there a permanent fix so we can go down the road with propane? Curious if someone found a way around this clearly flawed design. Mine is at the dealer and regretting not just fixing myself.

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