Heat distribution in Imagine 23bhe.

[29roadster]

I can't find 2" flex duct and splitters anywhere online

Might be able to get an HVAC shop to fabricate what you need.

[looknow12]

Might be able to get an HVAC shop to fabricate what you need.

Maybe a tin fitter, but for flex duct I don't think they can make that locally.

I took down the driver side panel to track down the 4" duct. It goes halfway up near the axle it turns in towards the other side. I'm guessing there is some sort of manifold to heat the underbelly.

So the only route is to run 2-2" flex lines (if I can find them). I might defer to Grand Design and dig in on this issue. It is inexcusable to state Four Seasons and have nearly no heat to where the tstat is located.

[Gogreenwave]

Hello, I just picked up my 2021 BHE yesterday, and I and having this exact same problem. It's 40F here and I can't get the coach to warm up, except for the bathroom. We boondock a lot and we were so excited, now I am so disappointed. The heater is terrible. I won't even be able to take it on a shakedown trip. Has anyone had any more insight or solutions for this?

[looknow12]

Hello, I just picked up my 2021 BHE yesterday, and I and having this exact same problem. It's 40F here and I can't get the coach to warm up, except for the bathroom. We boondock a lot and we were so excited, now I am so disappointed. The heater is terrible. I won't even be able to take it on a shakedown trip. Has anyone had any more insight or solutions for this?

I just dropped my 23BHE at the dealer yesterday. This was scheduled to meet the Grand Design rep. We had a long conversation about it and they will position possible two solutions.

A) Run a 4" line from the rear of the heater (front side of the trailer) to the passenger frame split to 2-2" lines to the bedroom and then split back to a single 4" line. Read the forum above for more details and pictures in another thread)
B) Split the 4" on the driver side that dives into the underbelly and bring it to the opposite side wall as maybe another 2"

They will have my unit for maybe a month to determine the best solution. I would call your dealer and reference this forum topic (there are two threads I have on this)

[Redapple63]

I don't think GD is using anything special for the lines, fancy dryer ducting. I bet you could find what you need at any of the big box stores.

Included a picture of the plenum in my 315rlts. Fancy dryer ducting.

Good Luck!

[29roadster]

Hello, I just picked up my 2021 BHE yesterday, and I and having this exact same problem. It's 40F here and I can't get the coach to warm up, except for the bathroom. We boondock a lot and we were so excited, now I am so disappointed. The heater is terrible. I won't even be able to take it on a shakedown trip. Has anyone had any more insight or solutions for this?

I bought a 21BHE in 2019 and had almost no heat out of the vents. Took the panel off under the fridge where the furnace is and found this mangled & bent panel that let most of the heat escape under the fridge. No idea how they bent it like that while building the trailer. So much for the QA.

[Radial GT]

Had the same issues with brand new 23BHE. Bright it home, fully tested furnace and was completely disappointed. After researching installation and pulling the panel under the bunk I found the furnace leaking heated air at every seal. Lots of aluminum tape and things improved.

This helped in the bedroom, but the dinette still had nothing, and the bathroom was a sauna. Figuring the dinette line was plugged I pulled the panel under the trailer and tracked down a huge tear in the 4” ducting that goes through the frame to the dinette.... fashioned a 4” piece of duct out of some scrap tin I had in the garage, more aluminum tape and it is all working much better now!

Drivers side near dump valves.

Found this.

Thanks to this thread I found the issues! Good luck all.

[Gogreenwave]

Thanks Radial GT, I pulled the panel under the bunk and have already found some air leaks so I will start taping.

[That 1 Ron]

I posted earlier in this thread and wanted to share a little on what I’ve found on my 2400BH. My 2400 heating issue was that the bedroom was 100°, the living room/ kitchen area about 70° and the bathroom about 50°. I pulled all kitchen drawers out and was able to get to the heater. I found a few tears in the flexible ductwork but was able to patch them up with some HD HVAC tape. I also made some orifices out of HD aluminum foil that restrict the airflow to the MB and the vent by the fridge. The result is that the heat is much more evenly distributed although still the restroom is still a little chilly if you leave the door closed. I plan on digging into this a little more thorough in the spring, maybe summer.

[azink007]

I posted earlier in this thread and wanted to share a little on what I’ve found on my 2400BH. My 2400 heating issue was that the bedroom was 100°, the living room/ kitchen area about 70° and the bathroom about 50°. I pulled all kitchen drawers out and was able to get to the heater. I found a few tears in the flexible ductwork but was able to patch them up with some HD HVAC tape. I also made some orifices out of HD aluminum foil that restrict the airflow to the MB and the vent by the fridge. The result is that the heat is much more evenly distributed although still the restroom is still a little chilly if you leave the door closed. I plan on digging into this a little more thorough in the spring, maybe summer.

I had this same issue and have (I think) resolved it. In addition to blocking off some heat to the bedroom, I noticed the problem was with the single duct running from the furnace, behind the electrical panel, to both a 2” vent under the shoe compartment by the door (2” does nothing), then continues on under the floor to the bathroom. By the time the heat reaches the bathroom it’s cold and almost no flow.

I believe I resolved it by running a brand new duct from the furnace (there is one cutout remaining) to the vent in the shoe area, and widening that vent to 4”. I then also directly connected the existing duct to the duct running to the bathroom. The new duct required cutting out an extra hole between the area under the oven and the electrical panel, which was also already pretty tight. Otherwise, it was straightforward.

The end result is much more warm air being forced to the rear of the RV where it’s much colder anyway due to the door and the windows.

I haven’t field-tested this yet, but it passes the driveway test!