inverter

[cookinwitdiesel]

How does it “pass through power” without a transfer switch? The WFCO 5100 (which I’m assuming is the model used) only has DC in and AC out.

It has an internal 20a transfer switch. The unit has a hardwired plug for a standard 15amp outlet which is how it receives AC input. Your trailer has an outlet wired up behind the false wall in the passthrough which is where this plugs in (at least that is how it was done in my trailer). I took my setup a step further and did some rewiring so that the entire circuit is powered by the inverter and not just the refrigerator, this made several easy to use outlets available which was nice. Here is a drawing that shows both the factory/default state as well as my modified "after" state.

[huntr70]

It doesn't technically "pass power through". The converter charges the batteries, which power the inverter, to power the fridge.

There is a control panel to turn the inverter on or off for the fridge.

[cookinwitdiesel]

It doesn't technically "pass power through". The converter charges the batteries, which power the inverter, to power the fridge.

There is a control panel to turn the inverter on or off for the fridge.

The WFCO inverter exactly passes through power. There is no other source for AC power to the fridge except THROUGH the inverter (unless of course, inverting from batteries, also through the inverter). The control panel allows you to enable the automatic transfer functionality as well as inverting AC power from batteries.

From the WFCO page:
"The WF-5110R also has an exclusive internal transfer system which automatically allows the AC input to bypass the inverter when the inverter is connected to an AC power source."

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-5110r/

[huntr70]

Well, there you have it. There is a reason I am not a technician..... LOL

[cookinwitdiesel]

Well, there you have it. There is a reason I am not a technician..... LOL

No worries, you still do ok

[Bungy]

The WFCO inverter exactly passes through power. There is no other source for AC power to the fridge except THROUGH the inverter (unless of course, inverting from batteries, also through the inverter). The control panel allows you to enable the automatic transfer functionality as well as inverting AC power from batteries.

From the WFCO page:
"The WF-5110R also has an exclusive internal transfer system which automatically allows the AC input to bypass the inverter when the inverter is connected to an AC power source."

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-5110r/

Ahh, that explains it, I was looking at the 5100 not the 5100R! If located in the pass through, 4 or 6 gauge leads would need to be run to the battery. In my unit that would be 15 - 29', any problem with that?

[cookinwitdiesel]

I believe they are functionally equivalent. You are looking at adding an inverter? If so there are much better options than the WFCO. With the WFCO, since up to 100a of 12Vdc power is used, 2AWG should be used (and is what the factory uses)

[Bungy]

I believe they are functionally equivalent. You are looking at adding an inverter? If so there are much better options than the WFCO. With the WFCO, since up to 100a of 12Vdc power is used, 2AWG should be used (and is what the factory uses)

Oh I realize there are better inverters out there, just trying to get my head around the install. On WFGO's site it recommends no more than 12' of #4 , I guess with #2 you can increase that

[cookinwitdiesel]

Oh I realize there are better inverters out there, just trying to get my head around the install. On WFGO's site it recommends no more than 12' of #4 , I guess with #2 you can increase that

Correct, a larger wire allows you to run a longer distance without suffering additional voltage drop (and thereby more heat AND lower efficiency)

[Bungy]

It has an internal 20a transfer switch. The unit has a hardwired plug for a standard 15amp outlet which is how it receives AC input. Your trailer has an outlet wired up behind the false wall in the passthrough which is where this plugs in (at least that is how it was done in my trailer). I took my setup a step further and did some rewiring so that the entire circuit is powered by the inverter and not just the refrigerator, this made several easy to use outlets available which was nice. Here is a drawing that shows both the factory/default state as well as my modified "after" state.

So in your modified after state, did you rig up a separate AC sub panel (circled in red) for the fridge and the "other outlets on the same breaker"?