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Thread: Weight issues
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06-25-2020, 05:35 AM #21
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Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)
First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
2019 F350 Lariat (Diesel) 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh
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06-25-2020, 06:30 AM #22
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It looks like you are going to be fine. In my opinion if you go over GVWR but stay within the axle limits you should be safe still. That being said, if you end up in an accident and someone is injured you open yourself up to liability by being outside any of your numbers (think lawyers), regardless of who caused the accident.
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06-25-2020, 02:53 PM #23
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06-25-2020, 07:45 PM #24
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You're so close, I honestly can't imagine you ever having a problem here (legally). If, god forbid, you were in a terrible accident, good luck reassembling the RV and truck well enough to get an accurate weight at the time of the accident. And, even if they somehow magically do this, guess what, you're still insured, that's exactly what your liability insurance is for, when YOU mess up and hurt someone. Don't sweat that; IMHO, but I did a LOT of searching on it and couldn't find any case law about insurance "not paying" because someone was overweight. It's also exceedingly rare to be stopped and weighed, yes, I know that does very rarely happen, but I wouldn't worry about it, again, you're so close, if you were over, just pull the valve and let out the water or move some stuff to the back and pull some pin weight off.
All that said, a dually will give you a more comfortable and safer towing experience, without question. There are accidents that you could have in your SRW that would be avoided in a dually (and accidents you would have in a dually that can be avoided if you were pulling with a class 8/semi, so there's no real end to this line of thought until you get to a full on semi). For me, I could upgrade to a dually for a reasonable cost and avoiding the "what if" should something awful occur was worth it to me. Didn't do it because of the stickers, the law, or some arbitrary "might happen" with insurance, I did it because 4 tires on the back gives me more contact patch and redundancy if something goes very wrong. But that's a personal calculus, what's a $ worth to you and what's your likelihood of having something bad happen to you? For me, it was a reasonable cost and I judged my chances of something bad happening as high, I tow a lot, in tough conditions and wanted the extra margin of safety. If I was in a different financial situation, or, if I did most of my towing on decent roads <100 miles from me house, I think I would have made a different choice.
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06-25-2020, 09:32 PM #25
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06-26-2020, 04:34 AM #26
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Frank & Cindy --- S Class Solitude 2930RL-R ---2019 Ram 3500 Cummins 6.7 SRW 4x4 8' bed---Remi & Sage traveling Pomskies ---TST 507 TPMS ... B&W Patriot 18K---3.73 axle ... Predator 3500--Backflip MX4---48 days 2019---51 days camped 2020---***Payload 4394***
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06-26-2020, 05:37 PM #27
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07-02-2020, 04:29 AM #28
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You can do what my neighbor did. After towing his Montana for two years and about 15,000 miles, including a trip to Alaska, he traded his SRW 4 wheel drive for a 2x2 dually, he did the 2x2 for increased payload capacity, ( and now get stuck practically every time he gets on wet grass), because folks told him he was too near payload capacity to be safe. At any rate, if you check with automotive engineers, my cousin's one for GM, they'll likely tell you trucks are designed where the OEM tires, are the weak link in the drive train. If you think about it, that's the logical design. Can you think of a scenario where a tire failing due to overload is worse than the axle or the frame fail?
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07-02-2020, 06:37 AM #29
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That’s a good point. If we do get a dually it will be a 4x4. My concern with the SRW is if we start carrying more cargo like a generator or more than 2 passengers or full fresh water tank that we will then be over weight. For now we will just be careful and travel light. Thanks for the response.
What confuses me is if I am under on both axles, tires, GCVW how am I so close on GVW?Last edited by GaryinGlobe; 07-02-2020 at 06:52 AM.
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07-02-2020, 07:32 AM #30
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First off, IMHO, tires and axles are the "real numbers" and the ones that I would worry about. GVW is often "make believe". For example, a F350 dually and F450 both have the same 14K GVW. That doesn't make any sense, the 450 is beefier in a lot of areas, most significantly, tires, and yet, somehow, winds up the same as a F350? Or the F250 to F350SRW, same vehicle in almost all ways, different GVW. In fact, in some states, you can register a truck for any GVW you want to, making the whole thing more confusing.
What I've heard many times is that if you're weighed (and you won't be, but, lets say you are) the numbers they care about are axle weights and tire ratings. I suspect that's true because those are the numbers that directly tie to mechanical components, an axle can hold XX amount of weight, a tire can hold YY amount of weight, if you go over, bad things can happen. Now, making it more confusing, often times an axle rating is based on the tires! The axle itself can hold a lot more, but the tires are basically used to determine the axle rating. Then you have to dig deeper (if you change the tires) to figure out what the vehicle is actually capable of. However, that said, no matter what it's "capable of" the stickers determine your "legal" status when towing.
It's incredibly obtuse, and it have me a new respect for truck drivers, I cannot imagine all the rules they have to try to know/understand, especially when some of this stuff varies from state A to B and even from road A to B. Insane.
People will disagree with me, but basically, I see trucks falling into 3 basic classes. F150's, F250/350SRW class and then duallies. Moving from one "class" to another has a very significant impact on your towing ability. Moving inside the class, unless your existing truck is really old, have little effect beyond stickers; it doesn't have an appreciable impact to what you can safely tow, only "legally" tow. A 250 can obviously tow/control more than a 150. And a dually can obviously tow/control more than a 250/350SRW. It's just about figuring out what "class" you either need or want to be in and then buying something appropriate for you in that class of truck. Yes, we can get very specific, and we can start investigating all the components to figure out what they can do to maximize the ability of a truck in a particular "class" but, if your to that stage, IMHO, it means you really should be looking at going up a class.
I weighed my 351M 1/2 a dozen times attached to my 250 to try to see if I could make the numbers work. Eventually, I decided that while I wasn't over on anything except GVWR, I was tired of playing the game and just wanted to know I had "more than enough" so I bought a 450. I've weighed my RV and 450 exactly 0 times. I know it's enough, because it's "up a class" from what I need to tow it. Which, taken to it's logical conclusion, is why you sometimes see semi's towing an RV, it's a way to stop worrying about it because, at that point, you know you've got enough!
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