Water heater outlet leaking

[Fsalmy]

Question: how tight should the plastic nipple be at the hot water outlet on the water heater?

I found what appears to be a recent leak from the nipple. I was able to hand tighten the pex elbow fitting and turn the nipple by hand. The plumber’s putty around the threads is wet and falling off. I snugged it up with pliers but didn’t want to over tighten. Still very slow leak. Seems to happen only after opening hot water faucet.

I found it completely by chance as I was trying to determine why the wardrobe drawers were difficult to close. Not sure if you can tell, but the very flimsy frame to which the rear of the drawer slides are attached was held on by one screw. Which was over tightened and cracked the upper horizontal piece so that it was basically hanging in the breeze. [Water heater is directly beneath this frame.]

[gbkims]

Question: how tight should the plastic nipple be at the hot water outlet on the water heater?

I found what appears to be a recent leak from the nipple. I was able to hand tighten the pex elbow fitting and turn the nipple by hand. The plumber’s putty around the threads is wet and falling off. I snugged it up with pliers but didn’t want to over tighten. Still very slow leak. Seems to happen only after opening hot water faucet.

That looks like the plastic check valve on the back of the water heater.
I'd think if it keeps leaking to remove and apply some new pipe thread sealant that's safe for plastic.
RectorSeal T Plus 2 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...3710/100116773

[Fsalmy]

That looks like the plastic check valve on the back of the water heater.
I'd think if it keeps leaking to remove and apply some new pipe thread sealant that's safe for plastic.
RectorSeal T Plus 2 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...3710/100116773

Thanks for the response. Yes, it is the check valve. I removed it and inspected. There was very little pipe thread sealant present. It also felt like plumber's putty instead of thread sealant. The cone washer on the PEX elbow had a tiny defect in it. I replaced it and reinstalled the check valve after confirming the valve was operational and the threads were good. On the advice of a master plumber friend of mine, I used both teflon tape and the RectorSeal thread sealant. Pressurized the system, ran some hot water a couple of times, and after snugging up a turn or so more, no leaks. I think it was leaking at two places - the check valve and the elbow. Its possible the PEX tubing pulled on the fitting just enough to cause the leak. However, the rig has been sitting for 2+ weeks with water pump off and no city water connection. I turned the pump on in order to wash my hands after working on the drawer glides. Funny how those things work. Guess its time to get some water sensors.

[boyscout]

Thanks for the response. Yes, it is the check valve. I removed it and inspected. There was very little pipe thread sealant present. It also felt like plumber's putty instead of thread sealant. The cone washer on the PEX elbow had a tiny defect in it. I replaced it and reinstalled the check valve after confirming the valve was operational and the threads were good. On the advice of a master plumber friend of mine, I used both teflon tape and the RectorSeal thread sealant. Pressurized the system, ran some hot water a couple of times, and after snugging up a turn or so more, no leaks. I think it was leaking at two places - the check valve and the elbow. Its possible the PEX tubing pulled on the fitting just enough to cause the leak. However, the rig has been sitting for 2+ weeks with water pump off and no city water connection. I turned the pump on in order to wash my hands after working on the drawer glides. Funny how those things work. Guess its time to get some water sensors.

Too late for this advice I guess, but the plastic check valves themselves often fail after a couple of years or so, leading to symptoms of no or low hot water pressure. Brass replacements are inexpensive insurance against an inconvenient further problem in that area.

[SteveO]

Too late for this advice I guess, but the plastic check valves themselves often fail after a couple of years or so, leading to symptoms of no or low hot water pressure. Brass replacements are inexpensive insurance against an inconvenient further problem in that area.

Is the water heater made of aluminum though? I've read in a few places that it is, and of that is true I would assume the brass would react with the aluminum causing more issues. Thanks!

[[email protected]]

We had a similar leak that was REALLY slow. It turned out to be the plastic PEX elbow. Replaced with a brass PEX elbow and it was solved.

[boyscout]

Is the water heater made of aluminum though? I've read in a few places that it is, and of that is true I would assume the brass would react with the aluminum causing more issues. Thanks!

If your trailer has the Atwood water heater with aluminum tank then this might be an issue... maybe worth calling Atwood to ask (and reporting back here).

The Suburban water heater used in many (most?) GD trailers has a porcelain-lined steel tank, and an anode rod to reduce reactive corrosion where porcelain doesn't protect the tank (such as the opening for the check valve on the output).

[Fsalmy]

Too late for this advice I guess, but the plastic check valves themselves often fail after a couple of years or so, leading to symptoms of no or low hot water pressure. Brass replacements are inexpensive insurance against an inconvenient further problem in that area.

Thanks, I consider my repair temporary. I would have replaced both the check valve and the elbow, but it was getting late in the day when I found it and we were leaving the next morning for a 4-day trip. I called Lowe's that evening, but they did not have one in stock. Our only other local source is a farmers co op/Ace that closes at 5 pm. I'll look into it further later today.