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06-11-2020, 07:52 PM #1
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- Sep 2018
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- Calvert County, MD
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How I Fixed My Stuck Cable-Operated Gray Water Dump Valve
2019 Imagine 2970RL, gray tank valve was stuck (at the remote T-handle, not up at the tank). Here’s How I fixed it:
Short version of the fix - There were two problems, the bend radius on the cable was terrible (so I improved that), and the remote pull was seized down at the T-Handle so I soaked it in penetrating oil and used a makeshift puller apparatus to free the cable from its housing. It worked! Using the threaded shaft and the nut as leverage proved to be a useful technique.
Longer version with details and pics
First, I relocated the cable pull mounting to improved the bend radius. Thanks to others on the forum who pointed out this build problem in this thread so I knew to look for it: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/23486-Imagine-Grey-Tank-Dump-Valves-Stuck-Closed.
Found this at the hardware store - It just happened to have the perfect sized holes. Simpson Strong-Tie 4X4 Half Base Z-Max BC40Z
https://www.eastcoasthardware.com/10...0aAlU6EALw_wcB
When bent straight (flat) at one bend, and almost straight at the other, and bolted through the original hole in the welded-on bracket, the bend radius was much better.
The bolt angle was the original T-handle angle, and yes, I shot this pic after the cable was free, but forgot to take it earlier. Others will have a more elegant solution to this, but it literally bolted right up so it was the fastest way to move forward.
I pulled the cable out of the bracket filled a small cup with Kroil Penetrating oil and rigged it so it could soak for a couple days, wicking up the Kroil into the cable housing.
After soaking the seized cable for 48 hours, I put the cable back in the (new) bracket and began setting things up so I could use the mounting nut to leverage out the cable.
I purchased some 5/8” x 7/8” x 1 steel spacers to go over the threaded part and some smaller 3/8” x 1/2” to fit over the cable end. I used a #8-32 x 1” stainless screw to go as far into the hole where the T-Handle was so it wouldn’t strip out, and fender washers to complete the setup.
With the nut first loosened from the bracket, I was able to hold the cable housing behind the bracket and use a wrench to turn the nut, which began to force/pull the cable out. It was difficult at first, but got easier as the cable broke its bond with the housing. Sorry - the original pics are not rotated. Don't know why that is happening...
I kept turning the nut out, and when I ran out of threads, I just reset the nut close to the bracket, added more spacers and kept turning the nut, which I could eventually turn by hand.
I kept adding spacers and eventually got the cable all the way out (the valve all the way open).
After removing my makeshift puller apparatus, I was able to put the T-Handle back on and work it in and out until normal function was restored. I wiped off the penetrating fluid several times and tried to re-lube it with my oil of choice, Tri-Flow. If someone knows the “right” lube for these cables, please post.
The nuts that hold the cable to the bracket are hard to find at the hardware store - it’s an odd 9/16-12 size, but my dealer sold me a kit with the T-Handle, 2 nuts and a lock washer for $5 for next time I need it. Also, the heads of the screws that hold the T-handles seem soft - all my T-handles are getting new 1/2" stainless.
I plan to carry my valve-freeing kit with Kroil, spacers, washers, the longer stainless screw, and a second jam nut in the rig from now on. Having the cable secured to the bracket while using a spare jam nut to do the pulling will be much easier. I didn’t have that when I did it, so it was more awkward.
Here’s a couple additional links that might help.
Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil, 8 ounce liquid
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
9/16-12 jam nut
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...rs=10147764011
No idea if this method will have the leverage necessary to free a valve that is stuck at the tank end of the cable, but maybe someone else with that issue can try it out and let us know.
Thanks
Jeff & Deborah - North Beach, MD
2019 Grand Design 2970RL "Lucy", Hensley Arrow 14K, Goodyear Endurance Tires
2019 Nissan Titan XD, 5.6 gas, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 bags
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06-12-2020, 10:00 AM #2
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- Mar 2019
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- East Tennessee
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I had the same issue with mine on second trip out. Black valve was extremely hard to open and close. Once I was able to get it closed I poured 1 gallon of vegetable oil in empty black tank. Open and closed very quickly a few times and left the majority of it in the tank till next trip. Now it’s smooth as butter.
Removed and Drained P- trap in bath and poured another gallon into empty grey tank. Now it too is very easy to operate.
Good luck.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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06-23-2020, 08:55 AM #3
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- May 2020
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- Harpesfield NY
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My rear 1/2 bathroom waste valve was stuck terribly I worked it with vice grips and Liquid Wrench for what seemed like for days. It finally freed up and I kept an eye on it spraying it when it felt like it was freezing up. After sitting all winter and while getting ready for my camping season I checked on it and it was stuck again. I freed it up, left it open and immediately ordered a Valetera twist on waste valve, problem solved.
"My wife says I do not pay attention to her or something like that"!
2018 Ram 3500 dually Aisin transmission 4.10
2019 Momentum 351M
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07-29-2020, 06:11 PM #4
Same problem with my pull out Dump valves. I will try the coconut oil and other methods mentioned. Disappointed with Grand Designand their lack of making things work right. Especially shortly after my warranty expired.
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09-06-2020, 11:55 AM #5
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- Jul 2019
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Everyone, same problem. My rear grey Tank has never worked right. This year frozen solid. Pulled on cable I’ve GoT abouT 25 feet of cable under my shroud. Is this normal? Is this my problem. Regardless frozen solid and don’t want to rip thinGs apart. Any advice would be GReat. I have an imagine 2670 thanks Jay
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09-06-2020, 12:27 PM #6
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- Sep 2018
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- Calvert County, MD
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Hey, maybe try what I documented in the original post. Would love have what I did work for another camper - just might work!
Best of luck,
JeffJeff & Deborah - North Beach, MD
2019 Grand Design 2970RL "Lucy", Hensley Arrow 14K, Goodyear Endurance Tires
2019 Nissan Titan XD, 5.6 gas, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 bags
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09-06-2020, 01:21 PM #7
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- Dec 2018
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- NY, Suffolk County, Long Island
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My friend had a similar issue with his black tank valve, he couldn't pull it open. We spayed Liquid Wrench up the cable (near the handle), waited an hour or so and we were able to free it up. Turns out his was cable the issue and not the valve. The dealer blamed it on the "salt solution" that they spray down on the roads in VT during winder.
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09-06-2020, 02:23 PM #8
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- Jul 2019
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09-07-2020, 08:56 AM #9
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Hi,
Problem solved. 24 hours of WD40 and a twist with a pair of vice grips freed up the valve. I was able to pull it. At which point i sanded the (aluminum) post with 400 grit sand paper to smooth it. Sprayed more WD40 to keep it lubricated. It is back to my "Normal" which is still a tough pull to open it. Like i said, when looking inside, i must have 25' of cable! Any suggestions on that one? Thanks again, to everyone who responded, Jay
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07-05-2023, 07:59 PM #10
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- Jul 2023
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Worked for me. Thank you for the idea.
Freezer Opens on Travel Day?
Today, 03:46 PM in Appliances