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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper Drolaw's Avatar
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    Just to add ^^

    You don't have to order directly from amsolar as amazon has the same parts and some are less expensive. I went with amsolar because it was a kit and it included support - which I never used since a lot of my questions were answered here and in the above video.
    Jim & Kate
    2019 Ford F350 CC 6.7 Diesel DRW
    2020 Solitude 344GK
    --------------------------------------------------------------
    2017 Ford F250 6.7 Diesel (Sold - already miss her)
    2018 GD Reflection 315RLTS (Sold)

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper
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    I had not seen that kit, thank you. I've looked at lots, too much maybe.

    I have not bought an inverter yet, I'm still weighing my options. I'm just thinking running the 50a wires to the pass through is more difficult than 2 romex and I don't really need to invert half a breaker. If I did it would add a few outlets, microwave, and the fridge.
    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
    2021 RAM 2500

  3. #13
    Setting Up Camp
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    I'm in the same boat. Got a 2670mk also and 2 lithium batteries sitting in the garage waiting for me to figure out/decide how/where to install them. I'm thinking in the pass through behind the wet bay. I THINK I could take the + from the batteries to the existing cut off switch. Would probably need a new breaker as that would by pass the one coming from the stock battery at the tongue. Not sure where I would take the negative.... did not see anything stand out inside the wet bay control panel. Would really like to avoid having to pull off the underbelly to run wires.... but not sure if possible.

  4. #14
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreamingat30fps View Post
    I'm in the same boat. Got a 2670mk also and 2 lithium batteries sitting in the garage waiting for me to figure out/decide how/where to install them. I'm thinking in the pass through behind the wet bay. I THINK I could take the + from the batteries to the existing cut off switch. Would probably need a new breaker as that would by pass the one coming from the stock battery at the tongue. Not sure where I would take the negative.... did not see anything stand out inside the wet bay control panel. Would really like to avoid having to pull off the underbelly to run wires.... but not sure if possible.
    Can you make a battery tray that can hold two batteries? If yes, that would be an easy way to mount them. If no, can you mount a second battery on the tongue very close to the body of the coach?

    Another idea that is very easy to accomplish on a Travel Trailer is under the floor in the pass-thru storage. Basically, between the rail and the outside wall, you cut a hole in the floor of the hold and make a frame to hold the batteries in the space between your frame and the skirting. You can then create a support for the floor cutout and re-install it, drill a thumb hole in the cutout so you can remove it to gain access to your batteries. You can also mount the batteries from underneath the coach in this same space without cutting the floor of the hold.

    PS: wiring would be rather simple because you already have wires on the tongue.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  5. #15
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV View Post
    Can you make a battery tray that can hold two batteries? If yes, that would be an easy way to mount them. If no, can you mount a second battery on the tongue very close to the body of the coach?

    Another idea that is very easy to accomplish on a Travel Trailer is under the floor in the pass-thru storage. Basically, between the rail and the outside wall, you cut a hole in the floor of the hold and make a frame to hold the batteries in the space between your frame and the skirting. You can then create a support for the floor cutout and re-install it, drill a thumb hole in the cutout so you can remove it to gain access to your batteries. You can also mount the batteries from underneath the coach in this same space without cutting the floor of the hold.

    PS: wiring would be rather simple because you already have wires on the tongue.
    Well ideally I would like them inside the passthrough storage for climate control and security. I would also like to add an inverter to it and I've read you want the inverter as close as possible to the batteries. If I fail at that then my last resort is mount them on the a frame where the stock one is, maybe in a lockable box or something. I guess my biggest issue is that we keep the trailer and hour away at a storage facility. So I have to take tools with me and kinda have a plan when I go there. Would have probably figured something out if I had it at home where I can go mess with it little by little whenever I want.

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    I'm getting closer to either doing it or having someone do it. Just inverting one line is a bit cheaper but inverting half a breaker provides better long term options. Can someone tell me what the purpose of the shutoff between the fuse and the inverter and the separate fuse and rv disconnect? I don't see that i will ever want to turn off the inverter itself.

    Can I use the existing shutoff and supply both the inverter and breaker panel from there? See the purple question mark and line.Click image for larger version. 

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    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
    2021 RAM 2500

  7. #17
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eodenc View Post
    I'm getting closer to either doing it or having someone do it. Just inverting one line is a bit cheaper but inverting half a breaker provides better long term options. Can someone tell me what the purpose of the shutoff between the fuse and the inverter and the separate fuse and rv disconnect? I don't see that i will ever want to turn off the inverter itself.

    Can I use the existing shutoff and supply both the inverter and breaker panel from there? See the purple question mark and line.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	half 50 amp - eoc.png 
Views:	61 
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    The shutoff in question is for your 12 volt supply to the coach. This shutoff cuts all 12v power to the entire rig, unlike the 12v cutoff that is wired by Grand Design, often 12v power is available for the landing gear and leveling system when the Grand Design cutoff switch is off.

    As far as the second cutoff switch (for the Inverter) goes, you will want this for maintenance on the Inverter as well as to eliminate the parasitic draw from the Inverter while the coach is in storage.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  8. #18
    Fireside Member
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    I have been following your adventure and have a few comments after using solar, inverter and lithium on our previous RV. I am just in the process of putting together a package for our new 5th wheel - a 2021 303rls.
    In our experience, you want to turn the inverter off whenever it's not in use because there is too much latent draw on your batteries otherwise (especially if you have no solar). We installed the control panel in the cabin and turn it on when needed. That practice also solves the problem of an AC load accidentally being left on and draining your batteries. The Victron product is excellent but they have not kept up to the current trailers. The newer inverters will handle both legs of the 50a power and therefore power the entire panel with out having to sort out circuits in the panel. (Go Power and Magnum). I used a Xantrex inverter last time which was good but I had only 30a power. I will use either Go power or Magnum this time.
    The Victron BMV-712 uses Bluetooth to give you all relevant info on the status of your batteries - to your cell phone - an excellent addition for a few hundred dollars.

  9. #19
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    The Go Power is a great unit. I an looking at that one as well. I like it because it has two 50a switches and you can literally take your shore power run both legs through the inverter and into your 120v distribution thus providing a full coach solution. Of course the onus is on you to make sure you don't overload the inverter by trying to use more than your batteries can supply.
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
    2020 Reflection 315RLTS

  10. #20
    Setting Up Camp
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    Just updating this with what I ultimately ended up doing. I think this is about as simple as it gets while still powering the whole trailer (although obviously you can't run everything with this small setup) and also being completely standalone so we can remove it at any time and move it into another rig. I kept the stock lead acid where it is with the stock converter. I made a small box and mounted the batteries and new inverter/converter to it. Ran the AC output over to the water panel area where I run an extension cord out of the passthrough opening to an adapter plugged into the standard 50 amp on the rig. I mounted the switch to turn the inverter on and off there on the water panel also so this provides power to everything in the rig. On the other side I have an AC in line which I just connect to the outlet inside the passthrough when on shore power to recharge the lithiums.

    When running off the lithiums I can turn off the stock converter at the breaker and let the stock lead acid battery power the 12v items, however I find if the stock battery is charged leaving the inverter on doesn't draw too much power. My next step is to get some adapters to remotely turn on and off some outlets for things like the recliners, the AC in for new converter and the outside fridge. Just makes it slightly easier than turning off the breakers. I think this will work well for our use case of just an overnight or two at a rest stop.




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