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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreamingat30fps View Post
    Just updating this with what I ultimately ended up doing. I think this is about as simple as it gets while still powering the whole trailer (although obviously you can't run everything with this small setup) and also being completely standalone so we can remove it at any time and move it into another rig. I kept the stock lead acid where it is with the stock converter. I made a small box and mounted the batteries and new inverter/converter to it. Ran the AC output over to the water panel area where I run an extension cord out of the passthrough opening to an adapter plugged into the standard 50 amp on the rig. I mounted the switch to turn the inverter on and off there on the water panel also so this provides power to everything in the rig. On the other side I have an AC in line which I just connect to the outlet inside the passthrough when on shore power to recharge the lithiums.

    When running off the lithiums I can turn off the stock converter at the breaker and let the stock lead acid battery power the 12v items, however I find if the stock battery is charged leaving the inverter on doesn't draw too much power. My next step is to get some adapters to remotely turn on and off some outlets for things like the recliners, the AC in for new converter and the outside fridge. Just makes it slightly easier than turning off the breakers. I think this will work well for our use case of just an overnight or two at a rest stop.



    Your last sentence says everything we need to know about your system...

    Your use case is powering up your rig for overnight stays. You have designed a system that fits your needs well. You have not over designed the system for two weeks of off-grid living that you would never want to do. I think some people over design their systems because they "might" boondock for two weeks, but they never will. You have simplified your installation to fit your needs. There is a very good lesson here.

  2. #22
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV View Post
    Your last sentence says everything we need to know about your system...

    Your use case is powering up your rig for overnight stays. You have designed a system that fits your needs well. You have not over designed the system for two weeks of off-grid living that you would never want to do. I think some people over design their systems because they "might" boondock for two weeks, but they never will. You have simplified your installation to fit your needs. There is a very good lesson here.
    Thanks, it's probably already overkill for us. Could have gone with 1 battery and probably a smaller inverter, but that costco deal enticed me. Plus I can always use them on our next rig and if we decided to have a more integrated system installed we could still use these batteries and inverter/converter.

  3. #23
    Site Sponsor 50ST8R's Avatar
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    Consider calling Battle born directly. I called them and they walked through my needs and helped build out a bundle for me which saved more than $500 from the Amazon price. 3 batteries, multiplex 3000, nvm and dongle to control multiplexer.
    Kevin and Deb. 50ST8R
    2021 Grand Design Reflection 320 MKS
    2018 Ford F-350 SRW 4x4 Diesel Platinum Edition

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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50ST8R View Post
    Consider calling Battle born directly. I called them and they walked through my needs and helped build out a bundle for me which saved more than $500 from the Amazon price. 3 batteries, multiplex 3000, nvm and dongle to control multiplexer.
    I did same. Called BB and purchased Magnum inverter and Batteries. A lot cheaper than Amazon.
    2019 Ford F350 Dually
    2020 GD Solitude 375RES-R

  5. #25
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    Finally ready to get what I need but have a few questions. Are my cable and fuse sizes ok?

    - Going to split the 50 amp where it comes in under the drawers so I will need to have a junction box there. (Using 6G/2S cable to and from junction box to Victron)
    - Batteries under bed, Victron 3000 in passthrough, fuse (300 amp), shunt, and shutoff between Victron and docking station (all 4/0 cable)
    - Need to run 4/0 from Batteries to frame where existing battery cables are connected
    - Hoping to put the battery monitor where the existing panel and HVAC controls are if that is not too hard, otherwise in bedroom

    Does anyone have a pre wired junction box? I know there is the amsolar transfer box but with two batteries there is no need for that.

    Thank you.
    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
    2021 RAM 2500

  6. #26
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    Regarding the Battery monitor. If its the Victron BMV-712 with bluetooth. I installed mine in the basement and utilized the phone app for monitoring. Mine is mounted forward of the trailer so i can pick up the signal on my phone while towing the trailer down the highway. Can monitor battery usage if running on inverter. Just a thought..
    Last edited by FOWLERGK; 11-25-2020 at 11:54 AM.
    2019 Ford F350 Dually
    2020 GD Solitude 375RES-R

  7. #27
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eodenc View Post
    Finally ready to get what I need but have a few questions. Are my cable and fuse sizes ok?

    - Going to split the 50 amp where it comes in under the drawers so I will need to have a junction box there. (Using 6G/2S cable to and from junction box to Victron)
    - Batteries under bed, Victron 3000 in passthrough, fuse (300 amp), shunt, and shutoff between Victron and docking station (all 4/0 cable)
    - Need to run 4/0 from Batteries to frame where existing battery cables are connected
    - Hoping to put the battery monitor where the existing panel and HVAC controls are if that is not too hard, otherwise in bedroom

    Does anyone have a pre wired junction box? I know there is the amsolar transfer box but with two batteries there is no need for that.

    Thank you.
    You might want to re-run your amperage calculations for the current draw for your inverter, your 300 amp fuse may need to be bumped up, I am running a 300 amp fuse for my 24 volt system and your 12v system may need a larger fuse.

    DON'T Increase the fuse size on my word, do your own calculations and make your own decision !!!
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 11-25-2020 at 10:06 AM.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  8. #28
    Seasoned Camper
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    Yep should be 400 amps. I was looking at a table incorrectly. One last question:

    In the layout drawing there are smaller red wire with a second fuse and the existing main rv shut off. This and the black then go to the breaker box. Is this fuse already in place under the frame where the current battery wire from the tongue are attached?

    I'm assuming I just need to run back down to those connections to feed the pre shutoff 12v items. These wires are currently 6 awg so that is what I was planning on using. Any problems?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
    2021 RAM 2500

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by eodenc View Post
    Yep should be 400 amps. I was looking at a table incorrectly. One last question:

    In the layout drawing there are smaller red wire with a second fuse and the existing main rv shut off. This and the black then go to the breaker box. Is this fuse already in place under the frame where the current battery wire from the tongue are attached?

    I'm assuming I just need to run back down to those connections to feed the pre shutoff 12v items. These wires are currently 6 awg so that is what I was planning on using. Any problems?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	half 50 amp - eoc.png 
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ID:	30941
    I have a 303 but I think the wiring should be close. There should be a fused positive bus bar somewhere in the trailer. The positive to the 12V panel runs through this bus bar and you should be able to see the fuse on the bus bar. It's not immediately evident because it's a flat fuse which sits between the bar and the wire connection. Have a look. Also, since you are re-wiring, check to see what the 12V disconnect leaves on when it's shut off. Depending on how you use the trailer, this can cause unwanted battery draw during storage. I re-wired mine to shut everything off. One last comment: you probably know this but just in case, there are inverters available which will handle both sides of the 50A service (Magnum, Go Power) which means you don't have to decide what doesn't get inverted and you don't have to install that splitter junction box.

  10. #30
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eodenc View Post
    Yep should be 400 amps. I was looking at a table incorrectly. One last question:

    In the layout drawing there are smaller red wire with a second fuse and the existing main rv shut off. This and the black then go to the breaker box. Is this fuse already in place under the frame where the current battery wire from the tongue are attached?

    I'm assuming I just need to run back down to those connections to feed the pre shutoff 12v items. These wires are currently 6 awg so that is what I was planning on using. Any problems?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	half 50 amp - eoc.png 
Views:	33 
Size:	339.5 KB 
ID:	30941
    You are correct, those wires supply all your 12v circuits. I was able to tie directly into the wires coming out of my Converter, so, there wasn't a long run from my battery (actually, Bus Bar) to these wires so I did not need a fuse. If you have a long run to the point wher you tie into the 12v fuse box, then I would fuse the line, you don't want a wire unprotected by a fuse, if the run is short 2-3 feet, then I would not fuse it because the line is already fused. However, it would be best if you fused this line just to be extra safe.

    By-the-way, your 400 amp fuse should either be on the battery post, or as close to it as possible, I believe that it is required to be within 6 inches of the battery (US Coast Guard requirements for boating installations, which is what I followed).
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

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