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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Power Protection Solitude 3350RL

    I have followed with interest a lot of postings of individual installations of this kind. Instead of adding to previous post I thought I would start my own more specific to our unit, the Solitude S Class 3350RL.
    Currently we use a Surge Guard 44270 remote 50 amp surge protector that does everything, ground check, neutral check, reverse polarity, L1 L2 power check, but does not check or protect for over under voltage and Hz. Low / High voltage at the pedestal can be a real problem at campgrounds. So looking to upgrade our protection.

    Manufacturer selection. Many people from this forum and U tube like the Progressive Industries product and its lifetime warranty. Little problem with them and good feedback on getting replacements for damaged units. So manufacturer selected.

    Now which PI product - HW50C hardwired or PT50X external. Good and bad points to both. You can search for detailed product information but basically they both provide surge protection, ground faults, neutral faults, reverse polarity, L1 L2 monitoring, over under voltage and Hz protection, automatic power check before it allows power into RV and power disconnect on fault.

    HW50C - Is at the end of the power circuit going into the RV, protects power all the way into the RV to the distribution panel. Can be somewhat a bear to install, you must know electrical wiring basics, has a remote display monitor and cord with bypass switch, List of error codes. If the product fails due to an internal failure and the bypass doesn't work, you're dead in the water unless you remove it from the power circuit. Depending how it was installed that could be a problem. Impossible for someone to steal the product. Least cost of the two products. If it goes "POP" its inside the RV.
    PT50X - very easy to use, plug it into the power pedestal, plug the RV cord into it. Has a ring to secure it to the power post to prevent stealing. If it goes "POP" its on the outside of the RV, More expensive of the two. Since it is at the beginning of the power circuit, it does not necessarily protect the power all the way to the RV power distribution panel. You could have a lead in power cord or connection failure that it doesn't see. Has a very small display and does include an error code list. Is not totally water proof. Warranty does not cover the all weather shield assembly. Easy to replace, if the product fails due to an internal failure, just unplug it and connect your RV power cord direct to the pedestal.

    I'm sure there are other things I am missing, but you get the idea. On balance I like the HW50C hardwired type. It is totally out of the weather. I don't have to chain it to the power post. Protects power all the way to the RV distribution panel. Can detect faults in the lead in power cable and connections. I like the larger remote monitor display and the bypass switch. I have various options to install the monitor where I want for visability. But then again if it detects incoming power problems, would you want to bypass it? Use the old Surge Guard for protection until problems resolved. At least its some protection. Just some of the reasons I picked it, OK product selected.

    Where and how to install it - Install the product in such a way so its easier to remove from the power circuit if needs be or until it can be replaced. In other words don't cut the internal RV power romex cable in two. Pull the RV internal power cable out of the distribution panel and wire it to the input side, then buy another piece of 6x3 with ground romex to lead into the power distribution panel. Of course that relates to where in the RV to put it. A lot of you guys/gals install it behind the basement wall, that can be a real problem and a further problem still if it has to be removed or replaced. You got to empty out the basement of stuff, remove the wall, crawl in there, maybe in the dark and work on it. See my pictures.

    I think fortunately, I have a better solution, maybe, our unit has a closet just below the power distribution panel. Second picture. I can remove the panel at the back of the closet (4 screws) and mount the PI HW50C unit on another piece of 2x4 screwed to the one seen in the closet. Actually there would be plenty of room to work on wiring the unit up. I can pull it out through the closet to work on it. I don't have to buy a real long piece of new 6x3 romex to lead into the power distribution panel just above. Much easier to replace it if I have to. I can run the monitor cord up to the convenience center and stick the monitor right over the Grand Design Logo.

    Well at least that is my plan. Got it ordered, planning my installation, I'll report back.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sol_1945.jpg   IMG_2401.jpg  
    Last edited by Steven@147; 06-18-2020 at 12:22 PM. Reason: additional
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    snip

    Well at least that is my plan. Got it ordered, planning my installation, I'll report back.
    Well my plan got blown out of the water. When I received the box it is much bigger than I thought. I mounted it to a piece of 2x6 and did a trial fitting. Well there is no way it can mount behind the closet back wall panel. It's just too big. Dang, thats where I wanted to put it. Now its got to go down underneath behind the storage basement wall. Now I've got to drag everything out of the storage compartment, remove the back wall, crawl in among the chaos of wires and water lines and mount it to the floor or somewhere on a wall. And its hotter than hell today with higher humidity!

    I did not want to put it behind the basement wall, its a PITA to get back in there. I just hope I don't have to replace it for a long time!

    I don't think my 6 foot piece of 6/3 romex is going to be long enough either. CRap! STOP, rethink the whole plan and start all over. This is something you want to get right the first time.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  3. #3
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    I don't think my 6 foot piece of 6/3 romex is going to be long enough either. CRap! STOP, rethink the whole plan and start all over. This is something you want to get right the first time.
    I have a different trailer but six feet was long enough with room to spare for my installation. I installed the new piece on the connector on the side of the trailer, and installed the device between it and the original piece of romex. The device is on the floor approximately mid-ship, near the transfer switch. Wasn't hard at all to install; easier IMO than fiddling at the panel end of the incoming wire (if that's why yours isn't long enough).

    Good luck, and thanks for the detailed post describing your decision tree. Great minds....
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  4. #4
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Have a 3350RL and have the same HW50C. Pulled the converter and installed it right behind it. Remote display is next to the Nautilus where I need it when hooking up. Same unit I've had in several of my last campers too.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  5. #5
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Well I made it work, right where I wanted it. I set my added 2x4 in and secured it. Then test fitted the box again, just barely enough room. Preinstalled my 6 foot piece and had everything ready to go, all I had to do then was shut the RV power off, disconnect the original 6/3 power cable from the distribution panel, going through the closet, reach up in behind the distribution panel and pull the cable out. I could set on the steps and wire the input cable in. Set the box back in place and secured with screws. Feed the output load side cable up in behind the distribution panel and pull it out the panel hole. Finish wiring up the distribution panel, attached the monitor for testing and Viola!! She works!

    For now I attached the monitor just inside the closet door. Works perfect! The wife will now have a new job when we set up, open the closet door and listen for the beep and check the monitor. I may in time do like the rest of you and move the monitor down into the storage compartment or maybe buy the second monitor kit then have one in the closet and one down in the storage compartment.

    At least she's wired in and protecting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2435.jpg   IMG_2436.jpg   IMG_2438.jpg  
    Last edited by Steven@147; 06-22-2020 at 03:59 PM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

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