How to figure out what size WDH w/sway bars to get for 22MLE

[TerBear]

The stat sheet for the 22 MLE says UVW 5,176#, Hitch wt 490#, GVWR 6,995#. We do not have the unit yet, but trying to decide on type and size of WDH w/ sway bars. I understand you add the total weight of the TT loaded + the tongue weight to get the size to look for...Is that correct?

I'm confused about the 490# hitch wt #, since everything I read says that the hitch weight needs to be 10-15% of GVWR. That is 700-1,050 lb. So what does the 490# come from???

Also, how can I estimate what OUR hitch weight (tongue weight) is? We might not max out on stuff we add to camper now, but assuming we might in time...

Also, any suggestions on a very reliable system including sway control that is EASY to use??? And be able to back up with? I hear good things about Blue Ox, but some reviews aren't great about the sway part of it. I'm looking at Anderson also... others too, and my brains are swimming!!!

BTW, we have a 2020 F-150 4x4 supercrew 157 WB, 3.5L V6 ecoboost w/ tow package. Appreciate all the help anyone can give. This stuff is difficult!!!

[Hitsman3]

We have a 22RBE (picked up in march) which is basically the same trailer, just a different lay out. Don't go by that hitch weight, you won't be anywhere close to that. That's without propane and batteries as well. We went with the Husky Center Line TS w/ 800#-1200# bars. You can back up without having to take the bars off. So far so good. You will have to go across the scales to figure out what your true hitch weight is. Ours comes in at around 800#'s.

[DenChristen]

That posted tongue weight is likely way off. You will have to weigh to know the actual but guessing 800 or so fully loaded.

I use a Blue Ox and I think it’s a very good system, not Hensley but the next tier down. Much better than the lower cost systems and yes, all the maneuvering can be done without removing the bars and you won’t loose your sway control by forgetting to clip it on when you leave. I’ve towed a similar sized trailer 12k miles with a half ton and I was happy. Look on Craigslist for used ones, you can find them all day for $300 perfectly serviceable. For the price of crap you can have a well engineered system. I’ve just purchased a used BO for 1500 lb tongue (new trailer) and have my BO 1000lb for sale.

The BO sway control is good. Sway is eliminated when setup right but it does allow some wiggle. The bars that create the weight distribution also do sway control. The way it works out the trailer can wiggle a little on center but the kind of large motions that create danger are immediately snubbed before starting. Some people feel like the slight motion allowed is unacceptable but I’ve always been fine with it.

If you are going with Blue Ox you round up from the actual weight so the 1000 lb bars are probably good. They are basically for 750-1000 lb tongue weights so you’d be in that range.

Good Luck!


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[geotex1]

Also, buy a size up in bars because you will upgrade in time, and then you can swap it over. A really easy and superior performing classic WDH is the original 4-point Equal-i-zer. It can be noisy as it works on friction, but you won't here it in the TV.

If you're near Eastern PA/NJ/DE/northern MD, I have the the correct Equal-i-zer for you, complete with rated hitch ball, used but well cares for and at a great price!

[ckreef]

Take your GVWR of 6,995# and 13% of that gets you right at 900# tongue weight. Chances are you won't actually get all the way up to 6,995# but that maximum is a good figure to go by when planning for the worst case scenario.

[chrisopy]

We have a 22RBE (picked up in march) which is basically the same trailer, just a different lay out. Don't go by that hitch weight, you won't be anywhere close to that. That's without propane and batteries as well. We went with the Husky Center Line TS w/ 800#-1200# bars. You can back up without having to take the bars off. So far so good. You will have to go across the scales to figure out what your true hitch weight is. Ours comes in at around 800#'s.

I have the same WDH as you. Do you adjust the bar brackets up or down to transfer weight to the trailer axles? I went to the CAT scale today and even though everything looks level I got some numbers that don't make sense.

[Hitsman3]

I have the same WDH as you. Do you adjust the bar brackets up or down to transfer weight to the trailer axles? I went to the CAT scale today and even though everything looks level I got some numbers that don't make sense.

Yes, you adjust the brackets up a hole or two. You can also add a washer or two to the bolt below the hitch ball to get the tilt more towards the trailer. Doing either one of these will put more tension on the bars & transfer weight from your rear axle to your front axle and the trailer axle.

[chrisopy]

Yes, you adjust the brackets up a hole or two. You can also add a washer or two to the bolt below the hitch ball to get the tilt more towards the trailer. Doing either one of these will put more tension on the bars & transfer weight from your rear axle to your front axle and the trailer axle.

Ok, because I believe my tongue weight was to much and it was putting me over on the GAWR of the trailer when I added the tongue weight to the axle rating of the trailer. The numbers made it seem like I was carrying 2,000lbs of cargo, which I know there was no way I could be doing. Here is a link to a thread I made about it, if you have any insight. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post302978