Accessing the Sail Switch on the Furnace in a 2014 323BHS

[Albertasaurus]

We have a 2014 323BHS that's still going strong, except the furnace won't ignite. The blower will run for about 30 seconds (I haven't actually timed it), then it shuts off, I suspect either the sail switch or the limit switch is the culprit, but I just cannot figure out how to access these. It's like GD built the trailer around the furnace without thinking the furnace would ever need to be looked at. There is no outside access panel like 99% of other trailers, which would make things soooo much easier.

Has anyone been able to replace the sail switch and limit switch in a 323BHS without having to pretty much tear out everything else in the vicinity?

Cheers!
Al

[Canyonlight]

We have a 2014 323BHS that's still going strong, except the furnace won't ignite. The blower will run for about 30 seconds (I haven't actually timed it), then it shuts off, I suspect either the sail switch or the limit switch is the culprit, but I just cannot figure out how to access these. It's like GD built the trailer around the furnace without thinking the furnace would ever need to be looked at. There is no outside access panel like 99% of other trailers, which would make things soooo much easier.

Has anyone been able to replace the sail switch and limit switch in a 323BHS without having to pretty much tear out everything else in the vicinity?

Cheers!
Al

Yes, Al - our early build units do not have an exterior access panel.......looks good with just the chrome exhaust and intake but not so much when repairs are necessary. I seem to recall that Rob - @Cate&Rob did this on his 303. And, yes, it was challenging and time consuming to do from the inside. If Rob does not respond, you may want to PM him or start a thread on the GDRV Owners forum where Rob is one of the Mods. as you may be aware. If it was not Rob who did this, he may recall who has and can share this too.

Dan

[jkwilson]

The early rigs are a lot of work to service the furnace. On a 303, you through the back of the hutch to access some screws holding the furnace in place, then take out the basement wall and move the plumbing panel out of the way.

Here is a helpful document for a 303. My guess is it will be close since your floorplan is similar. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/atta...0&d=1510937767

[2hams]

The early rigs are a lot of work to service the furnace. On a 303, you through the back of the hutch to access some screws holding the furnace in place, then take out the basement wall and move the plumbing panel out of the way.

Here is a helpful document for a 303. My guess is it will be close since your floorplan is similar. https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/atta...0&d=1510937767

Thanks for finding our post on the repair


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[jkwilson]

Thanks for finding our post on the repair


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Easy to find since I have it bookmarked and printed out with the paperwork inside my 303!

[Canyonlight]

Easy to find since I have it bookmarked and printed out with the paperwork inside my 303!

John - thanks, for sharing this......I had forgotten about this document.

Dan

[Cate&Rob]

@Albertasaurus @Canyonlight

Hi Al . . . its been a while !

As Dan notes, none of our early build units have exterior access panels. I did considerable research with Grand Design to try and figure out a way to add this feature, but this was not successful. "The devil is in the details". The floor attachment for the main duct would have to move and other significant changes would have to happen, including cutting a larger hole in the wall, that was not planned for in the wall framing.

As mentioned, some have opened up the pass through wall beside the furnace, disturbing the water panel and a lot of wiring. Others have come in through the buffet . . . but I don't think this is viable (at least on my 303) because the furnace is forward of the back wall of the buffet.

I have not yet had to pull my furnace, but as part of my plumbing system rebuild, I "cleared a path" that will allow me to remove the furnace much more easily when this becomes necessary. This info is posted somewhere on this forum, but if you have more questions, don't hesitate to come find me "elsewhere".

Rob

[2hams]

Dave was able to get our furnace out by moving the Kantleak panel. He didn't have to undo any plumbing. The back of the furnace is screwed to the floor. To get that out, he stuck the top half of his body through the opening for the bottom drawer in the hutch. It was a stretch for him, and he's 6'4".


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[Albertasaurus]

Update: I ended up using a hand saw to cut out the kick plate of the lower cupboard, undoing the screws holding in the shelf so it could move up, and pulling the bottom of the furnace into the kitchen then sliding the whole thing out. Once the kick plate was gone, it was a pretty easy process. Only thing now is to do some cosmetic repair to the saw kerfs in the kick plate.

If anyone else needs to do furnace repairs in a 323BHS, I'd be happy to go into more detail on how I got the furnace out and back again.

Cheers,
Al

[jkwilson]

Update: I ended up using a hand saw to cut out the kick plate of the lower cupboard, undoing the screws holding in the shelf so it could move up, and pulling the bottom of the furnace into the kitchen then sliding the whole thing out. Once the kick plate was gone, it was a pretty easy process. Only thing now is to do some cosmetic repair to the saw kerfs in the kick plate.

If anyone else needs to do furnace repairs in a 323BHS, I'd be happy to go into more detail on how I got the furnace out and back again.

Cheers,
Al

I’d love to have a picture or pictures of what you did.