Norcold 2010 blows circuit board fuse

[gizmotex]

Well, after two days of no problems, the 1210 started blowing fuses again last night. I'm down to my last 5 AMP fuse until I can get to Walmart!

So far, no luck calling Theatford/Norcold. 25 minutes of on-hold elevator music. Will call GD next.

Looking at the schematic, I'm surprised that the fan supply is routed through the circuit board. The fans could have been run off the battery, with a separate in-line fuse, and controlled by the same fan temperature switch (schematic legend "O"). I may mess with that when I have some time.

Right now, I have disconnected the fans again and using a temporary 120VAC fan on the lower vent

[xrated]

Well, after two days of no problems, the 1210 started blowing fuses again last night. I'm down to my last 5 AMP fuse until I can get to Walmart!

So far, no luck calling Theatford/Norcold. 25 minutes of on-hold elevator music. Will call GD next.

Looking at the schematic, I'm surprised that the fan supply is routed through the circuit board. The fans could have been run off the battery, with a separate in-line fuse, and controlled by the same fan temperature switch (schematic legend "O"). I may mess with that when I have some time.

Right now, I have disconnected the fans again and using a temporary 120VAC fan on the lower vent

This is a guess as to why they are controlled through the circuit board, rather than as you described above. If they are connected and controlled only by the temperature switch, they could/would possibly come on even if the refrigerator was turned off, as in when you aren't using the camper. This would of course eventually drain the battery or batteries in the camper unless you are plugged into power when the camper is stored. The way they are wire now is that the refrigerator has to be turned on in order for the "K3" relay to operate and then allow power to the temperature switch, which then turns the fans on. If you decide to "rewire" it like you mentioned above, I would make sure that you add a switch somewhere in order to kill power to the fans so that the temperature switch doesn't turn them on while parked and not using the camper. Hope this helps.

[Grammy&Grandad]

Well, after two days of no problems, the 1210 started blowing fuses again last night. I'm down to my last 5 AMP fuse until I can get to Walmart!

So far, no luck calling Theatford/Norcold. 25 minutes of on-hold elevator music. Will call GD next.

Looking at the schematic, I'm surprised that the fan supply is routed through the circuit board. The fans could have been run off the battery, with a separate in-line fuse, and controlled by the same fan temperature switch (schematic legend "O"). I may mess with that when I have some time.

Right now, I have disconnected the fans again and using a temporary 120VAC fan on the lower vent

Did you get an answer / resolution to this? In particular, why does the 5A F1 fuse keep blowing and what is the permanent fix? I am having this issue now and I am 5 days from home with a planned longer stay. No mobile Techs in this area are operating with COVID guidelines in place, so I’ll have to break down and find a dealer I suppose.

[mauilono]

My fridge did the same thing. After taking it in, I was told the relay had gone bad as well as the cooling fans. Fans were smoking and drawing 15 amps. Waiting 3-5 weeks for parts now and have to use coolers for the rest of the summer. I’ll be ordering those Titan fans today!!!!

[Heading out]

Had same issue 3rd nite out on 2021 337RLS found debris in one of the fans kept blowing 5 amp fuse. Cleared debris so far so good.

[fioen57]

I have a Grand Design 385gk. Purchased October 2019. Norcold refrigerator 2118sst. Never worked consistently since we got it out this spring. Brought it to a factory repair center for norcold. Norcold is requesting 8 hours tests x 2. Dragging this feet while we're in motel rooms. Call grand design and emails, since May getting no help or no sign that gd is willing to help. Requested that they Jack up Never cold Norcold. No results! Email to gd vice president McCarthy, no result no answer. Wish I could some indication that gd or Norcold cared. Right now thumbs down. What do I do.

[terryriddle]

Yea, they look like they would be an absolute nightmare to get to unless you know someone that is really, really skinny you could stick in the compartment.....or someone with really long arms. I may be mistaken here, so take this with a grain of salt.....I thought I had read somewhere that Norcold had done some kind of update and they are now using a 7.5 amp fuse in the Fuse holder F1....but don't take my word for that as gospel.

Another option is to do what I did and add a Titan Fan kit. I put a link to the one I bought and installed in the upper vent, on the inside of the vent of course. This is a complete system and it includes an assembly with two 120mm fans side by side, a Controller that you can mount/install inside the trailer (have to drill a hole and fish the wire through from the inside to the back compartment), and it's own temperature sensor that will control when the fans come on, which is 68 degrees. You can select automatic operation or manual operation and the fans have six different speeds. Check it out if you are interested. Here's the link... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After I installed mine and got a chance to test it about a week or two ago, I started the frig one morning about 10AM. I set the frig on #9 setting (the coldest) and had nothing in the frig or the freezer....completely empty. The outside temperature that day got to 92 or 93 degrees and the frig side of the trailer was in the afternoon sun. I let it run until around 6AM the next morning (so about 20 hrs) and the results were.....28 degrees in the frig....and 3 degrees in the freezer. That is, in my opinion very good, especially for not having any food in the frig...which would normally help keep it cooler and run less. My hope is that these fans do so well back there that the OEM fans will never come on, but I've yet to see if that actually happens. The OEM sensor that allows the OEM fans to come on is preset from the factory at 135 degrees, which in my opinion is too high. I think the fans should come on sooner, at a lower temperature. My thoughts are that if they don't come on until that sensor detects 135 degrees, the frig is already running behind and may never catch up when the outside temperatures heat up. Another bad thing is that the sensor is located right at the edge of the cooling fins for the heat exchanger. If it was mounted closer to the actual tube that the refrigerant flows through, it would heat up quicker and thus turn the fans on sooner.....or they could have just put a lower temperature setpoint sensor in the unit.

Here is a pic of the controller mounted on the wall, next to the frig. The wiring comes out the back of the controller and in behind the wall and back to the rear of the frig...

With the Titan Fan kit, is there a concern that it would blow out the pilot light if you were running on LP?? When it is hot, I have found running on LP seems to work better than electric with the AC units running. Also, where did you get the DC source for the Titan fans?

[Grammy&Grandad]

Another option is to do what I did and add a Titan Fan kit. I put a link to the one I bought and installed in the upper vent, on the inside of the vent of course. This is a complete system and it includes an assembly with two 120mm fans side by side, a Controller that you can mount/install inside the trailer (have to drill a hole and fish the wire through from the inside to the back compartment), and it's own temperature sensor that will control when the fans come on, which is 68 degrees. You can select automatic operation or manual operation and the fans have six different speeds. Check it out if you are interested. Here's the link... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I asked this question in another thread also, so I’ll hope for a response from at least someone... Did you install any type of fusible link, etc between the 12v source you used and the fan kit controller? The 12v supply for the Norcold 2118 fridge control board in our unit is on a 15A ATC fuse back in the master 12v Control Panel. If I tap into that steady source for the Titan kit, will that be too much current for the Titan controller?

[gbkims]

I asked this question in another thread also, so I’ll hope for a response from at least someone... Did you install any type of fusible link, etc between the 12v source you used and the fan kit controller? The 12v supply for the Norcold 2118 fridge control board in our unit is on a 15A ATC fuse back in the master 12v Control Panel. If I tap into that steady source for the Titan kit, will that be too much current for the Titan controller?

Looking at the Titan TTC-SC22(B) -120mm kit, it shows:
Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Rated Current: 0.56 A

So less than 1 amp normally.

You could place an small inline fuse on the 12V to the Titan if you wanted.
ATO/ATC fuses like used in the DC Panel go down to 1 amp.

Like:
Blue Sea Systems Waterproof in-Line ATO/ATC Fuse Holder https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst.../dp/B004ZIUA62
130PCS Standard Blade Car Fuse Assortment, SIM&NAT 1A 2A 3A 4A 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A 35A 40A https://www.amazon.com/130PCS-Standa.../dp/B07G33XCHM

[xrated]

I asked this question in another thread also, so I’ll hope for a response from at least someone... Did you install any type of fusible link, etc between the 12v source you used and the fan kit controller? The 12v supply for the Norcold 2118 fridge control board in our unit is on a 15A ATC fuse back in the master 12v Control Panel. If I tap into that steady source for the Titan kit, will that be too much current for the Titan controller?

I did not on the initial install, as I just wanted to get it hooked up and working to make sure that the fan kit was actually going to improve the performance of the refrigerator. I've since added an inline 3A fuse and holder.