Unique Supplies required for an RV

[TexSol20]

So, this will be another absolutely newbie series of questions based on posts we have read, so I implore your patience:

1. What, exactly, are the the special supplies/items that we will need for our RV that are not supplied when we buy it? I have read about black water hoses, potable water hoses, and hoses for washers (that makes sense). What, besides hoses, are we going to need? I can't even imagine and I imagine the list is endless, so please guide us.

2. A friend told us that you have to use special toilet paper for RVs?!? What are other special items and supplies do we need? What chemicals for sewage, etc? What other special supplies?

3. What do we need to have for our truck? We are sure we will buy a new truck with a diesel engine.

4. As I continue to research suspension and hitches, I see MORyde and others, and different opinions on upgrading brakes and axles to 7k/8k with disc brakes - pros/cons? Suggestions? Things we should consider when we order our RV?

Sincerely appreciate any and all suggestions, guidance, opinions, etc.

v/r

TexSol20

[geotex1]

Welcome! First piece of advice from me is to encourage your continued reading! I'm going to give you brief answers that will get you camping, but are not exhaustive.

1. Appropriate hitch (research and don't rely on trailer dealer's advice alone)!! 20-25 feet total of quality sewer hose (not an item you cheap out on) and a hose support to drain your grey and black water tanks. Quality water pressure regulator, water filters, and 75 feet (25ft and 50ft) drinking water-rated hose for freshwater. Wheel chocks appropriate for trailer you buy. Levelers/blocking for off-kilter campsites. Hand level (even if you have an auto-leveling system). Surge protection (hardwired Progressive Industries is well proven). Shore power electrical adapters. Rain covers for roof vents.

2. Not true. Ordinary Scott TP breaks down better and is less costly. Research the GEO Method and Happy Camper additive.

3. That's too broad... You need enough (or more) truck capability than the trailer you plan to buy. Most of us here will tell you more truck, and if diesel skip a 3/4-ton and go right to 1-ton because of payload. You will find a ton of sizing info here as well as tools to help you understand how to determine a truck's capability and size according to what you want to tow.

4. If we could all have disc brakes standard, we would! Read up as to why, and if in your budget go for it! Heavier axles make the most sense for campers with weights already running close to capacity. Read up to understand camper weight stickers, but a cheating hint is if a unit you're looking at has available cargo capacity in the hundreds of pounds range, the axles are running close to capacity. MorRyde is one of the best in the business. Full-timers like their full independent suspension system, but I don't believe GD is offering that directly but they can help you arrange its install on a new order. Outside this, some GD models come with MorRyde equalizers and shackle kits from the factory.

[Bamaman]

Rob (above) has hit the high points.

My fifth wheel weighs 11K lbs. dry, so I stayed with the B&W Patriot 16K hitch--top quality and enough capability for my trailer. If I was going a full size fifth wheel, I'd be going for their very popular Companion hitch.

You want to have the ability to easily change a wheel/tire. I carry a proper size long nose socket and a torque wrench to get the lug off. Also I have a pair of heavy jack stands and two hydraulic bottle jacks (Harbor Freight) to lift an axle. It's also nice to carry a good lithium battery impact wrench, and a good battery drill. A token tool kit is required too--full set of cheap sockets at a minimum. And don't forget the Duck Tape.

I carry a number of different size wood blocks with me. Never know when you might need one to stabilize the trailer--or level it. (No auto levelers on my fifth wheel.)

I too would love to have disc brakes. But my trailer remains in storage at our member owned campground, and they move it for me. If you're going to be towing mega miles and/or in large mountains, disc brakes would be desired.

[TexSol20]

Welcome! First piece of advice from me is to encourage your continued reading! I'm going to give you brief answers that will get you camping, but are not exhaustive.

1. Appropriate hitch (research and don't rely on trailer dealer's advice alone)!! 20-25 feet total of quality sewer hose (not an item you cheap out on) and a hose support to drain your grey and black water tanks. Quality water pressure regulator, water filters, and 75 feet (25ft and 50ft) drinking water-rated hose for freshwater. Wheel chocks appropriate for trailer you buy. Levelers/blocking for off-kilter campsites. Hand level (even if you have an auto-leveling system). Surge protection (hardwired Progressive Industries is well proven). Shore power electrical adapters. Rain covers for roof vents.

2. Not true. Ordinary Scott TP breaks down better and is less costly. Research the GEO Method and Happy Camper additive.

3. That's too broad... You need enough (or more) truck capability than the trailer you plan to buy. Most of us here will tell you more truck, and if diesel skip a 3/4-ton and go right to 1-ton because of payload. You will find a ton of sizing info here as well as tools to help you understand how to determine a truck's capability and size according to what you want to tow.

4. If we could all have disc brakes standard, we would! Read up as to why, and if in your budget go for it! Heavier axles make the most sense for campers with weights already running close to capacity. Read up to understand camper weight stickers, but a cheating hint is if a unit you're looking at has available cargo capacity in the hundreds of pounds range, the axles are running close to capacity. MorRyde is one of the best in the business. Full-timers like their full independent suspension system, but I don't believe GD is offering that directly but they can help you arrange its install on a new order. Outside this, some GD models come with MorRyde equalizers and shackle kits from the factory.

Geotex1, appreciate the information. I'll definitely keep researching and making lists of items from the forums.

A water pressure regulator is yet another item I have not seen pop up yet. As for the truck, I am doing considerable research there as it will determine if we can haul the Solitude we would like; an F350 or brand of 3500 is a minimum it seems (to avoid running too close to max payload/towing), just debating SRW vs DRW.

Many thanks!

[TexSol20]

Rob (above) has hit the high points.

My fifth wheel weighs 11K lbs. dry, so I stayed with the B&W Patriot 16K hitch--top quality and enough capability for my trailer. If I was going a full size fifth wheel, I'd be going for their very popular Companion hitch.

You want to have the ability to easily change a wheel/tire. I carry a proper size long nose socket and a torque wrench to get the lug off. Also I have a pair of heavy jack stands and two hydraulic bottle jacks (Harbor Freight) to lift an axle. It's also nice to carry a good lithium battery impact wrench, and a good battery drill. A token tool kit is required too--full set of cheap sockets at a minimum. And don't forget the Duck Tape.

I carry a number of different size wood blocks with me. Never know when you might need one to stabilize the trailer--or level it. (No auto levelers on my fifth wheel.)

I too would love to have disc brakes. But my trailer remains in storage at our member owned campground, and they move it for me. If you're going to be towing mega miles and/or in large mountains, disc brakes would be desired.

Bamaman, many thanks. I have read about tools to carry with us, and the first thought is "extra weight" That may well tip the scale towards buying a DRW long-bed truck in order to haul a tool box in the back. I have no idea what hydraulic jacks weigh. I'll also want a full-size spare tire for the RV, and the truck if that is an option.

Many thanks!

[FT4NOW]

You will want a portable or hardwired EMS, Progressive Industries makes a good one and they have a great warranty. Search the forum for EMS and you can read the pros and cons of portable vs hardwired.

Also important, you will need to stock your fridge with appropriate beverages.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[livinthelife]

So, this will be another absolutely newbie series of questions based on posts we have read, so I implore your patience:

1. What, exactly, are the the special supplies/items that we will need for our RV that are not supplied when we buy it? I have read about black water hoses, potable water hoses, and hoses for washers (that makes sense). What, besides hoses, are we going to need? I can't even imagine and I imagine the list is endless, so please guide us.

2. A friend told us that you have to use special toilet paper for RVs?!? What are other special items and supplies do we need? What chemicals for sewage, etc? What other special supplies?

3. What do we need to have for our truck? We are sure we will buy a new truck with a diesel engine.

4. As I continue to research suspension and hitches, I see MORyde and others, and different opinions on upgrading brakes and axles to 7k/8k with disc brakes - pros/cons? Suggestions? Things we should consider when we order our RV?

Sincerely appreciate any and all suggestions, guidance, opinions, etc.

v/r

TexSol20

Since you asked:

An assortment of dogbone power adapters.
Water filter.
Water pressure regulator.
"Y" water adapter.
Landing jack pads or blocks.
Tire pressure monitors.

[AustexGP]

Most important is a good sense of humor, the ability to laugh at yourself, the ability to forget about the problems of setting up and enjoy your glamping experience. Beer, wine and a few other beverages seem to help. Just remember we all started as newbie's at one time or another.

You'll find that most RV folks will not jump up and get in your business, but if you ask for help or ask to see their setup they'll be more than happy to show you and explain why the did what they did.

Enjoy yourself and make lots of new friends (one our trip to Utah, we made several new friends from all over the county that we still talk too).

[Chuck.N]

Geotex1, appreciate the information. I'll definitely keep researching and making lists of items from the forums.

A water pressure regulator is yet another item I have not seen pop up yet. As for the truck, I am doing considerable research there as it will determine if we can haul the Solitude we would like; an F350 or brand of 3500 is a minimum it seems (to avoid running too close to max payload/towing), just debating SRW vs DRW.

Many thanks!

Tex, yes, a pressure regulator is in your future. Add a "Y" hose connector, as well.

As for the truck, we did it backwards. We acquired a new truck before the coach. The truck (2020 Ram 3500 DRW, 6.7L HO Cummins w/Aisin tranny and air leveling) will tow just about anything we attach to it. The only downside to the truck we acquired is that it's a Megacab, so only has about 6.5' of usable bed space. This requires a sliding hitch. We solved that by buying the Superglide #2315 (for the Ram puck system). This was the only truck within 150 miles that checked all the boxes.

Good luck in your search.

[livinthelife]

Tex, yes, a pressure regulator is in your future. Add a "Y" hose connector, as well.

As for the truck, we did it backwards. We acquired a new truck before the coach. The truck (2020 Ram 3500 DRW, 6.7L HO Cummins w/Aisin tranny and air leveling) will tow just about anything we attach to it. The only downside to the truck we acquired is that it's a Megacab, so only has about 6.5' of usable bed space. This requires a sliding hitch. We solved that by buying the Superglide #2315 (for the Ram puck system). This was the only truck within 150 miles that checked all the boxes.

Good luck in your search.

We bought our truck first, also. Since we both had small cars prior, we felt we needed time to get used to driving the bigger vehicle before we tried it with an RV attached.