water heater not working with LP or Ele

[Rmathews951]

That's good advice and I'll get the manuals this afternoon. I've called a mobile RV shop to take a look at it and he's due here tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully, he'll know more about this than I do...or I'm in big trouble
Thanks for your help and advice.
Ron

[CoChris]

I think I understand what you're saying but I'm still confused becasue I think you're saying is they are actually independent of each other. Here's what I mean. If the 12VDC is out then the gas valve and the igniter won't work, which is another way of saying the 110 has nothing to do with it. If the electrical heating element is burned and can't work, the LP and 12VDC have nothing to do with that. For both systems to fail at the same time seems a bit of a stretch to me.

The control board runs on 12V DC. The one control board runs both the 120v AC heaters (if on electric) and the LP gas controls (igniter, gas valve). The temperature sensor and protection is/can be comment to both the electric heater element and the LP gas side. So yes, there are common components to the two different heating methods.

Chris

[RV Tech]

I'm gong to assume this is a Suburban HWH? I also assume you checked the 12 volt fuse and 110 circuit breaker as well as the small switch on the outside (110 Volt)

On the front of the unit on a black cover there are two rubber looking disks. These are the resets for 110V and the other for 12VDC. Try pushing in on both of these....push real easy because the reset is minimal and it's hard to feel if they reset. Before you lost the HWH was the water like REALLY hot?

Mark

[Rmathews951]

The water heater is a Dometic but I don't have the model number in front of me. I"m going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to get the model number off the plate. I can tell you that the paperwork they included in the new owners package is nothing like the heater that's actually in the trailer. Very frustrating. I'll post more info tomorrow once I get the correct information.
Thanks,
Ron

[geotex1]

The water heater is a Dometic but I don't have the model number in front of me. I"m going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to get the model number off the plate. I can tell you that the paperwork they included in the new owners package is nothing like the heater that's actually in the trailer. Very frustrating. I'll post more info tomorrow once I get the correct information.
Thanks,
Ron

The Dometic Atwood heaters do seem to have a high occurrence of early failure. You'll find threads across the internet camper forums.

[Bungy]

The water heater is a Dometic but I don't have the model number in front of me. I"m going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to get the model number off the plate. I can tell you that the paperwork they included in the new owners package is nothing like the heater that's actually in the trailer. Very frustrating. I'll post more info tomorrow once I get the correct information.
Thanks,
Ron

As stated, make sure the switch on the wh itself is on. I had the same thing happen to me and the location of the switch made it hard to see unless I bent down

[Rmathews951]

It was the thermostat. Trailer is all of 6 weeks old...pretty sad. Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions/recommendations. Greatly appreciated.

[geotex1]

It was the thermostat. Trailer is all of 6 weeks old...pretty sad. Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions/recommendations. Greatly appreciated.

Figured. It's not the trailer, but the appliance... At least a quick repair to resolve!

[BenAnna]

I had the exact same issue on my 28BH, the cause was a bad connection on the water heater thermal cut off diode (small wire with spade ends) To diagnose, I turned the Water Heater in propane mode and electrical off then wiggled the diode a little to make better contact and once it made proper contact the propane burner would ignite. Remove the diode and gently tighten the female crimps with pliers and reinsert.

[terryriddle]

I think I understand what you're saying but I'm still confused becasue I think you're saying is they are actually independent of each other. Here's what I mean. If the 12VDC is out then the gas valve and the igniter won't work, which is another way of saying the 110 has nothing to do with it. If the electrical heating element is burned and can't work, the LP and 12VDC have nothing to do with that. For both systems to fail at the same time seems a bit of a stretch to me.

Check the 5 amp fuse on the hot water circuit board. They may have gone to a 7 AMP fuse on the circuit board..but a number of items runoff that fuse (fans, etc.)..and there is a history of them blowing.