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11-04-2020, 09:58 AM #31
RVT,
In this water heater thread you ask regarding VERY hot water prior to no hot water.
A couple days ago DW said it was VERY hot. Now it seems to be very warm but not hot. We run almost exclusively on 120v.
2017 303rls w/Atwood gc6aa-10e.
Tell me more?
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11-04-2020, 10:24 AM #32
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First switch over to LP and see if the temp changes....being that it was very hot and now very warm does not compute. Here is the reason why - if it's REALLY hot and then not. On an Atwood they only use one Thermo and one ECO for both LP and Elec. The thermo disk is a thermal disk set at if I recall to 140. When that fails it usually fails closed so it keeps on heating. The ECO (Emergency Cutoff) is the second thermal disk and that then cuts the heater when it reaches that temp (180?) So being really hot usually means the Thermo disk is bad but these are changed as a set.
I have seen where there is a problem with the wiring on the AC heater element and you are pulling less amps thus never really heats us - that is why you need to try on LP. You provided the model number - just want to make sure this is correct.....and not an XT model that has a mixing valve and are notorious for going bad and only providing lukewarm water.
Let me know what you find out....
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11-04-2020, 01:45 PM #33
Electric is 122F, LP is 132F, measured with meat thermometer. Maybe I don’t have a problem other than growing less sensitive in my old age.
Nope, not an XT version. Is there any t-stat to tweak like residential units? Not immediately evident to me if there is.
Tnx,
Scott
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11-04-2020, 02:45 PM #34
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Do you consume anything on long...
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