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  1. #1
    Left The Driveway
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    230RL Circuit Breaker Wiring (& breakaway fuse?)

    Before modifying the wiring on my 2018 230RL, I documented the current layout and had a couple questions. (I first took the photo below, then tested each of the breaker connections.)

    Q: Is there a fuse for power to the breakaway switch/brakes? i.e. I found it hardwired to the Battery Pos.

    Q: Does anyone know the Amps of the 3rd breaker that powers the front lights? i.e. it has no markings on my trailer.

    Breakers (left to right):
    1. 50 Amp
      Top: Busbar (copper); Battery Positive (red); Breakaway Switch (black).
      Bottom: To Battery Cutoff Switch (red).
    2. 30 Amp
      Top: Busbar.
      Bottom: Landing Gear (black/white); Tow Vehicle Power (red/white).
    3. ?? Amp
      Top: Busbar.
      Bottom: Front Lights (red/white) [front basement & front cap].
    4. 30 Amp
      Top: Slideout (red/white).
      Bottom: From Battery Cutoff Switch (black); To Fuse box (black).

    Below the breakers is a ground screw into the frame: Battery Negative (black); Ground wire (white) [used to tie together a number of white wires].

    Note: The Battery Cutoff Switch must be on for shore power to charge the battery. The switch disables all power other than the Breakaway Switch, Landing Gear, Front Lights, and Tow Vehicle (slow) charging.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2017 Ford F250 Diesel (3.55 axle: 18.8 hwy, 11.0 towing); 2018 Grand Design 230RL (28' Fifth Wheel).

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsf250 View Post
    Before modifying the wiring on my 2018 230RL, I documented the current layout and had a couple questions. (I first took the photo below, then tested each of the breaker connections.)

    Q: Is there a fuse for power to the breakaway switch/brakes? i.e. I found it hardwired to the Battery Pos.

    Q: Does anyone know the Amps of the 3rd breaker that powers the front lights? i.e. it has no markings on my trailer.
    No fuse or CB for the breakaway switch.

    Earlier CBs would only have the info printed on the side of the CB, so have to remove it to see.

    GD Parts Lookup for 2018 230RL > Electrical lists 15, 30, 50 Amps DC CBs.
    https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...y/parts-lookup

    15A https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...s/detail/37392
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by gbkims; 07-20-2020 at 03:12 PM.
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  3. #3
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbkims View Post
    No fuse or CB for the breakaway switch.

    Earlier CBs would only have the info printed on the side of the CB, so have to remove it to see.

    GD Parts Lookup for 2018 230RL > Electrical lists 15, 30, 50 Amps DC CBs.
    https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...y/parts-lookup

    15A https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...s/detail/37392
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gene,

    Thanks for the input. I called GD Support and they replied that the omission of a CB is per code.

    In searching the web for "breakaway switch" "circuit breaker" the general consensus is that a fuse should never be used; an auto reset circuit breaker is the better choice (which I'd agree). And while I did find a few vendor schematics that did include a CB on the breakaway switch; the majority do not. Even vendors (e.g. etrailers.com) that sell breakaway switches do not include a CB in their schematics. Something to the effect that it's better to worry about the lives endangered by a runaway trailer than the loss of your trailer due to a fire.

    I'm in the minority camp that believes a CB should be utilized. A properly sized CB will prevent a fire in the case of a short, and it should never trip during a breakaway event. The likelihood of a CB failure is very small. And if a short were to occur during a breakaway scenario, then the brakes would not be getting power with or without a CB.

    In my opinion, for a fifth wheel, a short is more likely than a breakaway failure. I'd venture to guess that most breakaways are due to improper hitching of travel trailers; with mechanical failures being secondary. For a fifth wheel, improper hitching is obvious as you first attempt to leave the campground.

    I can only imaging what it might be like to actually see a fifth wheel breakaway from a TV. As the fifth wheel drops off the hitch the tailgate is crushed. As it slides out the back of the truck bed, the tailgate is torn off. The fifth wheel then drops down on the landing gear. If the landing gear survives that drop, they spew out sparks as the run down the road. Since braking won't occur evenly, the trailer with veer off left or right into on coming traffic, a medium, or a ditch. If the braking is really uneven, it would veer excessively and likely roll on its side.

    However there is also a likelihood that the landing gear may not survive the drop. With the trailer racing 65 mph down the road, the landing gear might catch and buckle. The front end would then drop down onto the frame. In my case (since my battery box sits partially below the frame), such an event would crack/crush the battery and eject it upward in it's front compartment. This would eliminate any power going to the brakes.

    On another note, I see many posts concerning the size of the wires running to the brakes. And I have to say that I am surprised at the small gauge wire used on such a long run. I guess, it's one more item I'll have to consider pursuing; i.e. run heavier gauge wire. Running a parallel set of wires would not only reduce the resistance, but would also provide redundancy.

    But for now, I'm going to continue to enjoy my travels. La La La My Trailer is fine! La La La :-)
    2017 Ford F250 Diesel (3.55 axle: 18.8 hwy, 11.0 towing); 2018 Grand Design 230RL (28' Fifth Wheel).

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