Running power to rv at the house

**Overtaxed** · 08-06-2020, 07:27 PM

Goodness gracious. So he intentionally wired a plug that has "120V" stamped, right on the front of it, to 240? Spectacular fail.

**nwminnesota** · 08-06-2020, 07:58 PM

Originally Posted by Dillon Ventures

I have a 2021 GD Imagine 2400 which is 30A.
I have contacted several electricians and they are all telling me different things.
What my set up looks like is:
my tt is parked approx. 100' from the house, so I will need to run a wire approx. 100-120' long. I am also planning ahead for the future and a new 5th wheel in about 5-6 yrs.

one electrician says he will run 100A wire and install a 30A breaker in the panel, and install a box on a 6X6 with a 30A plug for the current tt. then in the future all I will need to do is change out the breaker and the plug.

one eletrician says he will install a 50A wire and do the same thing for current use.

one eletrictrian says he will install a 30A wire with 30A breaker and plug in the remote box.

my question is what should I install for power cable, and how much amperage is going to be lost in the long power cable line at 100-120'

Wow! I read through the thread or I should say most of it.

Did you fiqure out what you are going to do or did everyone overwhelm you with options?

I didn't see any voltage drop calculation. I Might have missed it. I think that's what you referring to when your saying amperage loss.

Question to answers

Will you have a camper with 2 A/C units parked there?

Will you want to run both A/C at once?

If you answered yes to both questions
Then the 240/120v 50amp receptacle is what you want.
(Use the dog bone adapter for current TT)

If answered no to both questions
Then 120v 30amp will work

If answer yes to 1st question
No to second question.
Then have each bidder price up both scenarios.
Price will answer it for you.

Also yes Voltage drop is something you want to be aware of. Too much loss on voltage equals electrical equipment running harder then it should even drawing more amperage then required if available. I wouldn't let the voltage drop be more the 5%. The NEC will say how much is permitted. Just have to up size wiring to correct voltage drop. A good licensed Electrician will know exactly what to do.

Good luck

Fyi you won't be able to back feed with a generator without having to do more work with interlocking with main source and etc... we wouldn't want to fry our friendly utility worker.
It can be done but just needs to be done correctly.

**SolarPoweredRV** · 08-07-2020, 02:25 AM

Originally Posted by nwminnesota

Fyi you won't be able to back feed with a generator without having to do more work with interlocking with main source and etc... we wouldn't want to fry our friendly utility worker.
It can be done but just needs to be done correctly.

Yes you could wire up your parking pad to operate a generator that supplies your house with power during power outages, however, BACKFEEDING through the 30/50 amp line is NOT THE WAY TO DO IT !!! Like NWMinnesota said, Backfeeding is [Extremely] Dangerous for Utility Line Workers.

The proper way to do this would be to simply run a second line back to the house for the generator connection. This second line would be connected to a "Transfer Switch" which would be wired into your electrical panel to provide emergency power to selected circuits inside the house, i.e.: refrigerator, lighting, choice outlets, etc.

The "Transfer Switch" is a simple device that disconnects the house from the power grid whenever the generator is supplying power to the electrical panel (Note: Transfer Switches can be wired for "whole house" or Individual Circuit isolation).

**Timmer** · 08-07-2020, 07:45 AM

I don't plan on staying in the camper at home, so there is little risk of running multiple appliances and overloading a 30amp. All things 50amp were way more expensive - wiring, box, breaker. I ran 30amp and have been using it successfully for years. When my wife goes in to prep for, or clean up after, camping, she often runs the AC and the fridge is on. No problem with the load.

**Overtaxed** · 08-07-2020, 12:41 PM

Originally Posted by Timmer

I don't plan on staying in the camper at home, so there is little risk of running multiple appliances and overloading a 30amp. All things 50amp were way more expensive - wiring, box, breaker. I ran 30amp and have been using it successfully for years. When my wife goes in to prep for, or clean up after, camping, she often runs the AC and the fridge is on. No problem with the load.

I agree, I have a 50A, but it's really not necessary. And depending on the length of the run, it could cost quite a bit more than 30A service. The breaker and plug/box should be pretty similar in price, but the wire.. Phew, hold on when you go to price out 6 or 4ga copper wire. 25 feet from the box? No big deal. 200 ft? That's not gonna be cheap, especially if you calculate you need do derate and you wind up at 4 or 2 gauge.