No propane flow!! Apparently a mysterious cause?

**ErikTheRed** · 08-09-2020, 03:50 AM

So I went out tonite to fire up the fridge, getting ready for a camp trip next week. The fridge would not start so I figured I need to run the propane through the lines a bit. Turned on the stove, no propane from the burners. So I go out to the tanks, lift the cover, and the changeover regulator shows red in the window. I flipped it to the other tank, and still shows red. Both propane tanks are nearly full, and both wheel valves are full open (using the "turn valves on very slowly" method). Still no propane, and still red in the window no matter which way I flip the lever. So, I figure either the regulator went bad on my BRAND NEW 2020 G-Class, or something is wrong with the pigtails. I close the wheel valves and disconnect the pigtails from the tanks, and as I disconnect the first one, little chunks of white-ish plastic comes out in my hand. Then I disconnect the second pigtail from the tank and I notice a small white-ish plastic ring, or a bushing, or a spacer, or whatever you call it, just behind the brass flare. This one didn't come apart in my hand but it was clearly broken.

What I finally figured out, I think, is that these white-ish colored spacer rings help the pigtail make a connection with the OPD valve in the tanks. The spacer/bushing/ring thingy is behind the brass flare but in front of the green ACME nut, acting as a spacer to help the green ACME nut "push" the flare into the OPD tank valve. They are definately a factory feature since there is no way to get them on there without actually disassembling the hose. They only came off because they broke. So, with the plastic rings removed (because they've broken), the pigtail stem doesn't push into the tank valve far enough -- no matter how tight the ACME nut -- to open the OPD valve. I tried to connect the pigtails without the spacer things but the brass flare will not get tight, I can physically wiggle the hose even with the ACME nut cinched on as tight as I can get it with my hands-- and propane will not flow. I then took the broken ring and reinstalled it and I was able to finagle it enough to get it tight, and then propane would flow through the hose.

Anyhow, an hour on the interwebs later and here I am, posting in this forum because my searching found exactly NOTHING about these little white plastic rings. I'm fairly certain this is why I'm not getting any propane flow-- these white plastic rings broke (BOTH of them), causing the pigtail-to-tank connection to fail because the flare backed out, closing the OPD valve, allowing no propane to the regulator, the regulator shows red in the window, and resulting in no propane flow to the appliances. The amazing thing is, I can't find a single stinkin' word about this on the interwebs anywhere! Since both rings broke and caused this problem, I was sure it had to be a fairly common occurance, or at least one that the RV advice gurus on various websites would know of. But I can't find a darn thing.

Have any of you heard of this? What are these little white ring spacer doohickeys, are they a feature of all RV propane pigtails, and if so, how can it be possible that I seem to be the only person on earth who has had this issue? And not just one but BOTH broke in the past 3 weeks since our last camp trip. Thanks for any help because I have only tomorrow to get it fixed-- or we ain't going camping.

**gbkims** · 08-09-2020, 07:03 AM

I guess it's how the Type 1 ACME fittings are made.

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/04/not-...s-pigtail.html

Photo of a broken plastic ring: Coupling nut problem on propane grill - https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31...-propane-grill

**Wicked ace** · 08-09-2020, 07:19 AM

I would bet the whitish plastic rings were inserted as protection to exclude foreign materials ( FME ) and someone at the plant didn't remove them when installing the hoses. They got crushed and when you turned on the gas bottles found their way to the regulator. You could try removing the hoses and find the blockage and hopefully the regulator still works. New premade hoses could be found at a decent propane or gas grille vendor, maybe even Tractor Supply. I would get longer hoses than provided as I think the ones installed are short and twisted around putting strain on them. Save receipts if you buy anything so when you contact GD customer support Monday to open your case you have documentation. If you do find debris in the hoses or regulators I would ask for replacements, you really don't want something stuck under a regulator diaphragm. Use a good teflon paste pipe dope on any threads (NOT TAPE! ) if they aren't already doped.

**Wicked ace** · 08-09-2020, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by gbkims

I guess it's how the Type 1 ACME fittings are made.

Photo of a broken plastic ring: Coupling nut problem on propane grill - https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31...-propane-grill

Ok I see it's a keeper for the hand nut. It's called a CGA fitting and can be found at gas or welding supply vendors. My caution above about broken pieces in hoses or regulators is still valid.

**ErikTheRed** · 08-09-2020, 01:35 PM

Yessir, that page you linked is exactly whats happened. That little white plastic spacer doodad broke just like that. Apparently your Google ninja-foo is stronger than mine, i couldnt find any info. But yup, thats the problem. I just find it extremely curious that both would fail, at the same time, and for no apparent reason. All my years using tanks on previous trailers and bbq's and stuff Ive never had this happen. Best guess, a bad factory batch of plastic spacer bushings.

**ErikTheRed** · 08-10-2020, 04:10 AM

So I went over to the Camping World this afternoon (yeah I know, CW sucks but they are very close to my work and open on Sundays) and got a couple new pigtails. Problem solved and propane is flowing free like the wines of Capistrano. Thankfully there is nothing wrong with the regulator, the problem was those schrapnaled plastic bushings. I still think its incredibly bizarre that both failed in the same week, but it is what it is. The parts counter fella at the CW says its not uncommon for those bushings to break, and he seemed to think that even though my Momentum is brand new, the pigtails are likely many years old judging by the stiffness. GD probably using old stock. Anyhow, all is well and thank for the few posts.