Rookie leveling question

[jleonard]

We are new to RVing and are expecting delivery in a couple of weeks of a 2600 RB. We'd like to store it in our driveway for a few days to "move in", set up some storage, etc.
The problem.....our driveway is on about a 4 degree angle so the trailer would be hitch down. Not knowing exact dimensions, I roughly estimated the front jack would need to go up abut 18 inches in order to level the rig.
Does this sound feasible?
I can make up some wood blocks ahead of time as I'll have to work fairly quickly since my truck will be blocking the street until I un hitch.
How level does it need to be? Can I cheat a little? The axles will not be evenly loaded, will this be a big deal for a few days?
The back up plan is to do the loading at our storage place which is only 4 blocks away.
Thoughts?
Thanks

(As a reference, when I back my 17 ft boat in my driveway I pretty much have the front jack extended all the way up in order for it to drain.)

[Tigger1]

We are new to RVing and are expecting delivery in a couple of weeks of a 2600 RB. We'd like to store it in our driveway for a few days to "move in", set up some storage, etc.
The problem.....our driveway is on about a 4 degree angle so the trailer would be hitch down. Not knowing exact dimensions, I roughly estimated the front jack would need to go up abut 18 inches in order to level the rig.
Does this sound feasible?
I can make up some wood blocks ahead of time as I'll have to work fairly quickly since my truck will be blocking the street until I un hitch.
How level does it need to be? Can I cheat a little? The axles will not be evenly loaded, will this be a big deal for a few days?
The back up plan is to do the loading at our storage place which is only 4 blocks away.
Thoughts?
Thanks

(As a reference, when I back my 17 ft boat in my driveway I pretty much have the front jack extended all the way up in order for it to drain.)

My driveway is not level either. I use the yellow blocks from Walmart but wood will work. Make sure you chock the wheels both sides. If you plan to turn on fridge and/or extend the slide, try to get as level as possible, side to side, front to back.

[boyscout]

I can make up some wood blocks ahead of time as I'll have to work fairly quickly since my truck will be blocking the street until I un hitch. How level does it need to be? Can I cheat a little? The axles will not be evenly loaded, will this be a big deal for a few days?

Wood blocks will work fine, and cheaper than most of the plastic offerings. We use 2" X 12" pressure treated lumber, cut into one-foot pieces. Cheap and easy to find in almost any town. We alternate the grain direction on each as we stack them to avoid splitting them. We've had as many as seven stacked under the front jacks; on our steep driveway we use six in front and two under each of the rear jacks.

As @Tigger1 said, be sure to chock the wheels with GOOD chocks. I got big rubber wedge chocks maybe 6" tall from a trucking equipment store for CDN$20 each; no chance of a trailer rolling over them and they have a good grip on the ground.

The trailer should be quite level - it's less likely to want to move if it is, and if you want to move slides or run a refrigerator it's really important to be as level as possible.

As long as all wheels are firmly on the ground the uneven loading of axles when you're not moving won't cause a problem. Don't lift so high that the wheels come off the ground and/or the spring shackles get reversed.

[Ynot4me2]

X 2 what @boyscout and @Tigger1 said. It needs to be level, weither using the plastic Lego or wood. At home I use both plus the Anderson for the side to side.

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[BreakfastinAmerica]

Also try to be level when using your slide outs

[jleonard]

Chocks and blocks. Got it.
Thank you all for the replies.

[Skiddy]

My driveway is very similar to your's. My truck's front wheels just hit the curb when the trailer ladder is about 12" or so from my house. Truck is blocking the sidewalk until it is unhooked. The slope is about 4º. Use good wheel chocks. Use enough blocks (as noted 2"X12"s are great) to go under the tongue jack footpad in the retracted position. I extend the jack until weight comes off the truck. BTW, due to the slope, sometimes the ball will wedge, either the front or back in the coupler and it might take a little truck movement to get it to free up. My jack is extended so my safety chain hooks are about 1" off the driveway, trailer is dead level. During winter storage I do raise the front axle by about 2-1/4" to get the suspension level. (1-1/2" plank and 3/4" plywood)

[jleonard]

Thanks Skiddy. Appreciate the feedback.
(I received the gift of many pressure treated 2x8 cutoffs, so that's what I'll be using to start with)

[ckreef]

Thanks Skiddy. Appreciate the feedback.
(I received the gift of many pressure treated 2x8 cutoffs, so that's what I'll be using to start with)

2x8 cut at 8" is what I use. If you can move it to your driveway the day before for loading, plug it in using a 12 gauge extension cord and turn on the refrigerator. Refrigerator/freezer will need some time to cool down before loading with food. It does need to be fairly level to run the refrigerator.

[OurNewEra]

Our driveway is very sloped as well and had no problems. We had our 2970RL in the driveway for a couple weeks getting it prepped. I used cinder blocks under the front stabilizer jacks and tongue jack with my one jack pad on top of the each block. Large Maxxhaul black rubber chocks and x-chocks between the tires. The only tricky part was getting the steps setup. Had to add blocks under each foot and each leg was at a different length due to the slope of the drive. This also pointed out that I need to cut some smaller blocks for the steps in case we are at a camp site that is similar to our drive.