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08-20-2020, 08:12 PM #1
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Two days old and already an annoying awning issue
Last edited by ptavares; 08-20-2020 at 08:21 PM.
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08-20-2020, 08:58 PM #2
No, because hitting the stud is completely optional. GDRV used to build a quality product, not so sure in the last few years. They seemed to have joined the turn ‘em out quick and ship a POS if you must “family” of RV manufacturers.
Judy & Larry
Ty and Ali the St Bernard drool machines
Delta, British Columbia, GWN
2019 Imagine 2150RB - lovingly christened “IM-A-GENE” towed by Dusty via Andersen 3350.
2018 F150 SCREW 3.5 EcoBoost Lariat - respectfully christened “Dusty”.
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09-27-2020, 05:49 AM #3
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2019 Reflection 312BHTS TT Sold
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08-21-2020, 07:28 AM #4
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You might request from GD to send you Molly Rivits. Your dealer will just use a larger screw and it will pull away again. If you search the forum you'll find there is a history of awning pulling away in the early days of production.
Marcy & Gary
2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
2003 F350 - retired
Michigan
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08-21-2020, 08:40 AM #5
Any awning over 18’ needs a centre support IMO to prevent sag and more importantly bounce while in transit. The support bracket should be located as close to the center as possible where there is suitable backing to hold screws, or as some manufacturers suggest, install a backing plate to the coach wall using moly rivets. I suggest the GDRV installer probably eye balled the mid point and just drove screws into the side of the coach. GDRV should have engineered the location to ensure the support mounting screws have adequate backing support such as an aluminium wall stud, like the OP asked, or have a backing plate, either surface mounted on the outside of the coach or in the wall, like a TV backer plate.
I defer to @WhittleBurner with his experience, if I understand his suggestion a couple of moly rivets might not be adequate.
The right way to do this is to find support, move the bracket to the left or right screw it in place and repair the hole. The alternative is to attach a backing plate to the outside of the coach, using four or more moly rivets, then screw into that backing plate.Judy & Larry
Ty and Ali the St Bernard drool machines
Delta, British Columbia, GWN
2019 Imagine 2150RB - lovingly christened “IM-A-GENE” towed by Dusty via Andersen 3350.
2018 F150 SCREW 3.5 EcoBoost Lariat - respectfully christened “Dusty”.
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08-21-2020, 12:51 PM #6
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My last RV had the awning lag bolts pull out at the top. I just drilled through the wall and put a bolt and some washers on to take the load.
But I think Marcy has the right idea - Molly bolts (or in Marcy's case.... 'March bolts')....Larry KE4DMG
2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
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08-31-2020, 08:41 AM #7
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Thanks all for the replies. @traveldawg I like your solution. I think it would provide the most holding strength. The molly rivets sound interesting but I'm concerned about them mushrooming inside the wall, against the outer luan layer(s) and laminate and causing future issues vs sandwiching the entire wall between washers. My only concern is that I may have to also drill through a cabinet to install this. Do you have any pictures of your installed solution?
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08-31-2020, 02:36 PM #8
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This is what I had to deal with. The lag bolt simply came loose because it was not into any framing structure (it should have been). After I found one side of the awning loose I checked the other side and had the same thing about to happen.
This is the front anchor point. I got lucky in that it was in the cavity where the room came in and out so it was not visible from inside unless you had a flashlight and knew where to look. Looking at this now, it looks like I used some metal plate as a backing washer, not sure why, probably couldn't fit a round washer in the space. And it looks like I painted it black to help disguise it even more.
This anchor point was inside the cabinet above a sink in our bedroom. So you could see it if you opened the cabinet. I got lucky here too since it was pretty much out of sight.
I don't have any outside photos. I used threaded bolts through the walls. I used the existing holes on the top of the awning bars. Of course, I did a lot of measuring before I did any drilling. Had the front awning been 2 or 3" more toward the front I would have had both inside points inside a cabinet.Larry KE4DMG
2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
Search kalakamods for my mods
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08-31-2020, 10:50 AM #9
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Make sure the pivot shoe (curved portion on top of bracket) holding the awning up pivots easily. It looks like the awning tube hung up on that shoe.
I would probably get some plusnuts to do the repair properly and possibly add another bolt or two in the bracket. Look up my post on "bowed awning repair" for information on the plusnuts.2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar
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09-28-2020, 07:05 AM #10
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I finally found some time this past weekend to investigate how I wanted to do this repair. Unfortunately a through bolt repair using the existing hole won't be possible since the existing hole leads to the edge of the roof and not to an easily accessible inside space. @powerscol how long ago did you implement your plusnut fix and has it held well? Any issues with the awning weight causing de-lamination of the exterior panel as it pulls at the plusnuts
Water leaking
Today, 08:43 AM in Plumbing and Water Systems