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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper J Maguire's Avatar
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    Morning. Just a thought. You didn't mention how far you drop the front jacks down with the manual pull pins before unhitching. The manual suggests no more than 6 holes showing to allow for proper auto leveling. If the front jacks are dropped too far in the front it will force more action in the rear jacks to balance things out increasing the likelihood of levitated tires.
    2021 GD Reflection (150) 5th Wheel 268BH
    2019 F250 Gas 6.2L V8 FX4 Crew Cab
    PullRite 2100 20K Hitch w/ LOCKED OUT Turning Point
    2x Honda EU2200i Generators & 1UP Bike Rack & Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover
    Previous Setup:
    2017 Outdoors RV 23BHS
    2017 F150 Sport 3.5L V6 EcoBoost

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor theclarks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Maguire View Post
    Morning. Just a thought. You didn't mention how far you drop the front jacks down with the manual pull pins before unhitching. The manual suggests no more than 6 holes showing to allow for proper auto leveling. If the front jacks are dropped too far in the front it will force more action in the rear jacks to balance things out increasing the likelihood of levitated tires.
    Yeah, sorry about that, in the past I've extended the front jacks anywhere from 4 to 6 holes (the fewer the better) and used lego blocks to make up about half the remaining space. Now that I have the Andersen Trailer Jack Blocks I very seldom need to extend them. . . . .
    Joe & Dee
    Ontario, Ohio
    2018 Chevy 3500HD LTZ Duramax Crew Cab SRW Short Bed Payload 3523#
    2019 Reflection 337RLS bought February 2019 Dry Pin Weight = 2,320#, UVW = 11,100#
    Hitch - PullRite Super Glide 2700 - 16K
    Bed Cover - Roll-N-Lock
    TPMS - Tire Tracker TT-500 (non flow thru)
    Rear Observation Camera - Rear View Safety model RVS-155W-FB (2400-2500MHZ)

    2017 303RLS bought April 2017 / Traded February 2019

    Map represents States visited with our 303RLS /337RLS

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper Airrace's Avatar
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    If I lift one side off the ground I prefer to put some blocks under the wheels. Be careful about over extending as I have had the jack leak fluid
    Lyle & Judy and Annie the Westie
    Retired (Government employee/USMC/USAFR, Ret) & Retired (insurance industry)
    2018 F-350 CC LB DRW 4X4 6.7 (3.55)(Reese 18k "puck system")
    2018 Solitude 310GK (5500 Onan Genset)
    2020 F-150 SCSB XLT 2.7L 10 speed

  4. #14
    Site Sponsor Malco1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeygesus View Post
    Why would it do this?

    2021 reflection 31mb

    I fixed it by taking boards I use for unleveled sites, putting them under the tires and manually lowering the camper and manually leveling.

    Thanks for your input- I searched the forum for this issue to no avail.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have a set of Andersen levelers, and they work very well. You don't want to have wheels off the ground for the simple reason, you cannot chock wheels that are off the ground.
    Mal & Helen
    With Mitzi our Yorkie
    2021 Solitude 310GK-R
    2020 Reflection 303RLS Sold
    2020 Ford F250 Lariat Super Duty 4WD 6.7 Diesel Short Bed
    B&W Companion Slider
    Amateur Radio Call sign WA2TWA


  5. #15
    Setting Up Camp
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    Always start off by leveling left to right by pulling the trailer onto blocks. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, just relatively close. Then, when dropping the landing gear, don't drop them too far. Leave room between the feet and the ground or blocks. It must be sufficient to allow the leveling system to drop the nose below the level position. If it cannot drop the nose below level, the leveling system will raise the RV up (front and rear) so that it can drop the nose below level. This will, almost certainly, end up with wheels off or nearly off the ground.

  6. #16
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    I just got back from 11 days of camping out west. I logged over 3800 miles round trip visiting the likes of the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Petrified Forest and various stops along Route 66. These Andersen Levelers are the way to go, IMO. I have a bubble level next to the Lippert Keypad. This tells me what wheels need raised. I drive up onto the levelers until the bubble is between -1 and 1 and my son tells me to stop. Then I use the appropriate number of Lego blocks for the front and rear jacks. This step is critical as the one time I forgot to use the blocks on the jacks I got an Out of Stroke error and the leveling system went crazy. The tires were raised about 3-4” off the ground and the downhill front jack looked like it was all the way out. I ended up having to reconnect to my truck so I could raise the jacks, reset the system and install the blocks under the jacks. Lesson learned.

    I was also surprised how much I was off by just eyeballing if a campsite was level. The site from this picture looked level to me, but my bubble was between -2 and -3. I used the process above and received no error message.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radcolt View Post
    I just got back from 11 days of camping out west. I logged over 3800 miles round trip visiting the likes of the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Petrified Forest and various stops along Route 66. These Andersen Levelers are the way to go, IMO. I have a bubble level next to the Lippert Keypad. This tells me what wheels need raised. I drive up onto the levelers until the bubble is between -1 and 1 and my son tells me to stop. Then I use the appropriate number of Lego blocks for the front and rear jacks. This step is critical as the one time I forgot to use the blocks on the jacks I got an Out of Stroke error and the leveling system went crazy. The tires were raised about 3-4” off the ground and the downhill front jack looked like it was all the way out. I ended up having to reconnect to my truck so I could raise the jacks, reset the system and install the blocks under the jacks. Lesson learned.

    I was also surprised how much I was off by just eyeballing if a campsite was level. The site from this picture looked level to me, but my bubble was between -2 and -3. I used the process above and received no error message.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a 303RLS. So I made sure all three slide outs were out before using the auto leveling system. I was impressed with the Lippert 3.0. It really makes setup quick and easy.

  8. #18
    Site Sponsor livinthelife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radcolt View Post
    I have a 303RLS. So I made sure all three slide outs were out before using the auto leveling system. I was impressed with the Lippert 3.0. It really makes setup quick and easy.
    You put your slides out before leveling?

    2017 Reflection 26RL "Mili"
    2016 Ford F250 Extended Cab Gas Engine "Buck" (the truck)

  9. #19
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by livinthelife View Post
    You put your slides out before leveling?
    Yes. That is what I was told by my dealer on our walk through. It makes sense. The refrigerator slide out alone is heavy especially since it and the pantry were packed with food. I also had a bunch of stuff under the dinette table on the opposite slide out. The truck was disconnected and no one in the trailer. It worked perfectly. I checked it with my carpenters level.

  10. #20
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keebler View Post
    https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001535.pdf

    Quote from page 4 of the manual, "Lifting the coach so the wheels are not touching the ground will create an unstable and unsafe condition."
    Wrong system, but the statement is in the Ground Control manual as well. The statement has nothing to do with the jack capacity, the strength of the frame, or any of the usual urban legends/conjecture thrown around the forums. The concern having tires lifted is when invoked with poor judgement - meaning not understanding the forces in play, especially if there is not only side-to-side tilt, but also front-to-rear. One set of tires lifted means a set of tires not chocked, and while jacks have tremendous axial capacity, they're effectively slender columns, meaning they do not have a lot of lateral capacity or said another way cannot take far eccentric loads. There is potential for them to buckle, likely to break the mounts first. So to avoid liability and ensure the safety of all skill and experience levels, all the manufacturers have these precautions written down in order to point to them when SHTF.

    As for slide outs outs and then level, that is not actually how things were intended. Best practice is to level the rig, extend the slides, and then re-level. Yes, we all see dealer lots with non-level, non-stabilized rigs with all the slides out. You will also see dealers move rigs around with the yard dogs with the slides out!!! The dealers don't really care because they're not keeping these things, and certainly it is ok on a limited basis. Do it repeatedly, you will come to understand why this is not best practice. For through-frame mechanical slides you'll see the issues in the mechanism LAST after the effect on alignment, seals, and squareness of the box. For the cabled slides, the mechanism will show the issue quickly! You don't have to believe this engineer, but take the time to talk to the Lippert engineers when available at rallies and such - the engineers, not the sales persons.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

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