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Thread: Loading toy hauler
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09-08-2020, 07:47 PM #11
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- Aug 2016
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I just wanted to point out that JCR GD is tying down correctly. Notice, he is tying off from unsprung points (tires) and not sprung points like a roll cage or body. This allows the suspension to bounce all it wants to without yanking on the straps. Also, his straps are as horizontal as possible. This is where you get maximum strength from the straps. His straps are also front to rear, providing better stability in case of a sudden stop. Can't tell from the picture, obviously, but the straps only need to be taught. One does not need to pull out a "cheater bar" to cinch the straps super duper tight. That only serves to "use up" a lot of the straps strength. I've actually saw an individual yank the tiedown out of the floor by cranking down on the straps.
John2018 Silverado LTZ 3500HD CC LB 4X4 DRW Duramax/Allison
2019 Momentum 381M w/Full Body Paint
2016 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited Special Series
2017 Can Am Outlander 1000 XT-P
2016 Wrangler Hard Rock Unlimited
1997 Bayliner Capri 1950 affectionately named Skinnydipper
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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09-12-2020, 10:38 PM #12
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- Nov 2018
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- Madras, OR
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Took her CanAm to Sturgis this year. Used the leveling system to lower the ramp and had no issue with the low (yes, her bike is LOW) clearance. As we parked in grass campsites, there was an additional issue loading, a slick drive tire. The low ramp angle solved the problem.
As for strapping, I was told at the dealer to never strap to the front suspension arms. I did some research and now tie back from the floor boards to the rear and forward with a single strap around the drive wheel. Do not need to pull hard and had no movement on a 2800 mile round trip.
2019 - 351M with e-tracks added, Gen - Y Gooseneck, 2019 Ram 3500 SRW, 6.7 CTD, CC
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