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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    Update:

    Pulled the coroplast and found the graywater tank 2 leaking at the drain connection. Only happens when the tank is greater than 1/2 full. How I can get the nipple, that connects the tank to the drain valve, out the reseal is a mystery.
    Do you have any pictures?

    Is it leaking at a glued joint?

    Is the valve seal leaking?
    2020 Reflection 337RLS
    2020 F350 Dually

  2. #12
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    Here are the pictures. The gap between the tank and the nipple became obvious when I tried to tighten the clamp at the tank. At any rate, it appears the nipple used to connect the tank to the drain valve was not inserted far enough into the tank fitting to prevent even allow the clamp to work. The gray sealer appears to be some type of plumbers putty. My problem now is removing the nipple, cleaning or replacing it since nothing moves. It looks like I may have to remove the tank which I haven't figured out how to do. I'll likely have to take down a couple of more feet of coroplast. Hopefully the other tanks, especially the black tank, are not done in the same half azzed manner as this one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by grassmaster; 09-22-2020 at 06:51 AM.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    Here are the pictures. The gap between the tank and the nipple became obvious when I tried to tighten the clamp at the tank. At any rate, it appears the nipple used to connect the tank to the drain valve was not inserted far enough into the tank fitting to prevent even allow the clamp to work. The gray sealer appears to be some type of plumbers putty. My problem now is removing the nipple, cleaning or replacing it since nothing moves. It looks like I may have to remove the tank which I haven't figured out how to do. I'll likely have to take down a couple of more feet of coroplast. Hopefully the other tanks, especially the black tank, are not done in the same half azzed manner as this one.
    I don’t think you need to remove the tank. I recently replaced the dump valve on my kitchen grey tank. I was surprised to find out that the tanks are not anchored and just hang on some supports. The tank would move which made changing the valve easy. In your case it looks like the tank movement has caused the joint to separate. In your image three your knife is setting on the valve. If you remove the four bolts from the valve body the coupler will be loose and you should be able to work it back into the tank fitting. You will want to take the tank valve out to give more room to maybe get the coupler out of the tank for cleaning and inspection. Be careful with the valve so you don’t damage the rubber seals. You might also not be able to get the valve out if it is in a bind.

    Now that you have it apart do you need to replace the valve since you have done all the work? My valve was warranty and came with the coupler. I think etrailer has them. Mine was 96” and the brand name on the pull handle.

    Since you have everything apart you might want to check the set screws that hold the cable to the valve and make sure they are tight. I replaced my kitchen valve then a few days latter the cable pulled out of one of the other valves and I had to drop the belly again and put the pull wire back into the valve body.
    Last edited by Always Learning; 09-22-2020 at 11:09 AM.
    2020 Reflection 337RLS
    2020 F350 Dually

  4. #14
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    In image two the valve coupler and the tank are at two different angles. When you put it back together if you can’t get them to easily line up then that would be the reason you had the problem in the first place.
    2020 Reflection 337RLS
    2020 F350 Dually

  5. #15
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    Here are the pictures. The gap between the tank and the nipple became obvious when I tried to tighten the clamp at the tank. At any rate, it appears the nipple used to connect the tank to the drain valve was not inserted far enough into the tank fitting to prevent even allow the clamp to work. The gray sealer appears to be some type of plumbers putty. My problem now is removing the nipple, cleaning or replacing it since nothing moves. It looks like I may have to remove the tank which I haven't figured out how to do. I'll likely have to take down a couple of more feet of coroplast. Hopefully the other tanks, especially the black tank, are not done in the same half azzed manner as this one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I can't find them in a quick search but any decent plumbing place has rubber / neoprene tubes with hose clamps on each end that will cover both the gap and the misalignment in your plumbing.

    The things I'm talking about are something LIKE this:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...0-33/100372287

    However they don't have the shielding that part has, they're just rubber with ridges and hose clamps on each end. Available in sizes up to several inches long. A guy who used to be here a lot and is one of the gurus of plumbing in our trailers rebuilt all of his draining system and used a number of those pieces to ease the task of valve maintenance down the road.

    Congrats on finding the issue and good luck with the repair.
    Last edited by boyscout; 09-22-2020 at 10:00 AM.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    Here are the pictures. The gap between the tank and the nipple became obvious when I tried to tighten the clamp at the tank. At any rate, it appears the nipple used to connect the tank to the drain valve was not inserted far enough into the tank fitting to prevent even allow the clamp to work. The gray sealer appears to be some type of plumbers putty. My problem now is removing the nipple, cleaning or replacing it since nothing moves. It looks like I may have to remove the tank which I haven't figured out how to do. I'll likely have to take down a couple of more feet of coroplast. Hopefully the other tanks, especially the black tank, are not done in the same half azzed manner as this one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	66 
Size:	90.2 KB 
ID:	29728Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	67 
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ID:	29729Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29730
    All you need to do is loosen the tank clamp and pull the valve home. You can use a small ratchet strap and loop it over the valve and tank frame that is above. It should pull home. Then consider adding a set screw through the tank fitting. On my unit I found the pipe run loose and tied it up to prevent future movement. Also a soft dead blow hammer can aid in getting things realigned.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  7. #17
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    I appreciate it guys. It looks like I may have to drop the tank to remove the nipple. Like Always Learning said, the tank is not anchored but rides between two cross members with enough "play" to slide back and forth about an inch and a half or better, as well as side to side. Its an accident waiting to happen. I can virtually see what happens when 20+ gallons of water crashes back and forth, side to side against the tank wall as your driving. Its a bad design flaw. My plan is to shim between the rear cross member, which is 90 degree L angle and the tank wall to stop the back and forth motion. Does anybody know what type sealant to use as I re-assemble the fittings. What on there now looks like some form of plumbers putty.
    I like Boyscout's recommendation for using neoprene shielded couplings. If they would work, I could simply cut the nipple and replace it with the shielded coupling.

    BTW, does anybody know the size pipe I'm dealing with? The outside diameter is 3 1/2 inches as best as I can measure.
    Last edited by grassmaster; 09-22-2020 at 02:34 PM.

  8. #18
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    Does anybody know what type sealant to use as I re-assemble the fittings. What on there now looks like some form of plumbers putty. I like Boyscout's recommendation for using neoprene shielded couplings. If they would work, I could simply cut the nipple and replace it with the shielded coupling. BTW, does anybody know the size pipe I'm dealing with? The outside diameter is 3 1/2 inches as best as I can measure.
    Sounds like you're right about fixing the tank a little tighter - imagining what you've described makes my sphincter clench.

    I think you want UN-shielded couplings - the one I linked looks as though it's shielded with metal along its length but you want the flexible unshielded ones.

    OK, found them after more looking:

    https://www.homedepot.com/s/pro-conn...oupling?NCNI-5

    If you use them you won't need a sealant, just a strong hand on the hose clamp. I'd guess that a sealant such as plumber's putty might interfere with the coupler's ability to grip the pipe.

    The pipe is probably 3".
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    Sounds like you're right about fixing the tank a little tighter - imagining what you've described makes my sphincter clench.
    The tank has about a 2 inch rim all the way around its top and just hangs and floats on two cross members with no anchoring other than friction (and the drain pipe). There is no way its not going to move with several gallons of water in it, starting and stopping, hitting pot holes, speed bumps, et cetera. With as much potential movement, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. I'd never dreamed GD did such sloppy design work on what I consider a critical component after reading all the good reviews before we purchased.
    To add insult to injury, I just put $2,000 worth of disc brakes on it primarily because the electric brakes wouldn't stop her. I could set the controller to max, push the manual lever all the way and my Duramax would still pull the unit forward while idling. Im afraid to venture too far from home. After other problems, I've kinda lost faith in the girl. At any rate, I'll build it better than it was. I'm starting to think of my rig like people say about boats, "two of the happiest days in your life is when you buy it and when you sell it." Sorry for the rant. Frustration I guess. And again I do appreciate the help.
    Last edited by grassmaster; 09-23-2020 at 05:11 AM.

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by grassmaster View Post
    We have a 2017 337 rls. Yesterday when dumping the holding tank upon exiting the camp ground, the black tank washer/sprayer would not wash the tank---When I turned on the water supply to the black tank, no "clean" water was coming through the drain hose after the black tank was empty. (the black tank had drained ok) Instead, a few seconds after cutting on the fresh water hose to clean the tank, water was running from the underbelly near the low point drains. I verified fresh water was coming through the hose and at reasonable pressure/volume. It seems as if the fresh water supply line to the black tank sprayer came loose. I had no problem with water leaks during the 4 nights at the campground and hooked up to "city" water.
    Before I take down the coroplast to inspect the black tank, is there any recommendation. (Other than my wife's saying maybe we need to trade because I spend time working on this lemon than we do camping. She's sort of right; its had its share of problems.) Anyway, any advise will be greatly appreciated.
    What other people have said about pulling back the wall in the storage compartment, and then you might have to do the underbelly. But also keep in mind when using the black flush you should still use the water pressure regulator.

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