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Thread: Heating system

  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    Heating system

    I have a 240rl and was checking out the furnace yesterday. There are two round vents, one facing the stairs and one facing the living area. I get good amounts of hot air from these. There are two floor registers, one in bathroom and one in the bedroom. They do not blow any air. Should they or are they cold air returns?

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    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevec999 View Post
    I have a 240rl and was checking out the furnace yesterday. There are two round vents, one facing the stairs and one facing the living area. I get good amounts of hot air from these. There are two floor registers, one in bathroom and one in the bedroom. They do not blow any air. Should they or are they cold air returns?
    You are correct sir, they are returns. My 260RD has them in the same areas.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
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    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    Really? No heat vents in either the bathroom or the bedroom?????

    I have the same vents but in a different rig, and all blow hot air.

    I had to look at a YouTube video... even the basement is heated. Why wouldn't the bedroom and bathroom be heated to?
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    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    Really? No heat vents in either the bathroom or the bedroom?????

    I have the same vents but in a different rig, and all blow hot air.

    I had to look at a YouTube video... even the basement is heated. Why wouldn't the bedroom and bathroom be heated to?
    There is a small (2") heat outlet in the vanity. I never gave a thought to the bedroom actually because I only run the furnace long enough to get the interior to temperature then let an electric space heater take over. Most of the time even with the space heater back by the dinette it gets too warm in the bedroom.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
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    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    We have a similar setup in our 303. There is a large return vent behind the toilet and a small heat vent in the vanity. In the bedroom, there is only one floor vent, providing heat to the bedroom.
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

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    Seasoned Camper
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    Not speaking specifically about your rig, in general remember that a return vent will pull air from other areas. While the pressure in the room becomes negative, (because of more return than supply) potentially nearby warm air will move into those areas to equalize air pressure.

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    Site Sponsor Richter's Avatar
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    Another option, depending on how your unit was built, might be to turn on the fan if you have a second AC unit. We can turn on the furnace with the main thermostat, then turn on the fan for the bedroom AC. Not the AC, just the fan. Since warm air rises, that will move it throughout the unit, through the ceiling ducting and help to spread the warm air throughout.
    Tom and Janice (known as Tom in PGH on the “other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
    Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
    2019 F350 Lariat (Diesel) 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
    Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
    Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

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    The vent in the bedroom should be a heat vent, it isn't unusual for the venting to fall off. If there is an access panel in the basement you might want to take it off and look to see if the vent fell off, if no access there the only way I can think of would be to drop the coroplast. Is this still under warranty?

    It would be helpful to those trying to help, possibly takng some of the guess work away if you take some time and create a signature line with your rig info included.
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    Setting Up Camp
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    The Suburban furnace in your 260RD - like most all RV furnaces - draws air in around the unit and then sends it out warm air through various ports on the back of the unit. I don't know of any unit that has a cold air return - they draw air in through grates around the case of the unit. On the 260RD there is space under the bottom cabinet under the kitchen sink that provides ample room to allow air to travel back to the furnace which is situated vertically under the shower, next to the hot water heater.

    There's a round duct that sends heat back to the rear, another that sends heat over by the stairs. Then there's one that feeds a sheet metal duct that routs heat to the bathroom, the basement, and the bedroom. The openings are large, and the furnace only puts out so much air (it's 35K btu) There is some heat coming out, but not a lot. Put a tissue or paper towel over it when it's running and you'll see.

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    Rolling Along OurNewEra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmbrenner View Post
    The Suburban furnace in your 260RD - like most all RV furnaces - draws air in around the unit and then sends it out warm air through various ports on the back of the unit. I don't know of any unit that has a cold air return - they draw air in through grates around the case of the unit. On the 260RD there is space under the bottom cabinet under the kitchen sink that provides ample room to allow air to travel back to the furnace which is situated vertically under the shower, next to the hot water heater.

    There's a round duct that sends heat back to the rear, another that sends heat over by the stairs. Then there's one that feeds a sheet metal duct that routs heat to the bathroom, the basement, and the bedroom. The openings are large, and the furnace only puts out so much air (it's 35K btu) There is some heat coming out, but not a lot. Put a tissue or paper towel over it when it's running and you'll see.
    On the topic of heat, I had to make some repairs mods to mine yesterday. My wife was running our furnace for the first time yesterday (we're in Florida) to burn off the new furnace smell. We have a 2970RL with the hutch, coffee bar for us, and the furnace is located underneath the hutch. She opened one of the drawers and noticed A LOT of heat coming out from behind the drawer. When I got home I pulled out the drawers and found that one of the 4" ducts was not attached. I am guessing it never was attached because the flange that attaches to the plate on the furnace was not attached. It wasn't like the hose just slipped off. From what I could tell this duct feeds the underbelly. The other 4" duct would feed feed the registers under the kitchen island. We had airflow out that register before I reinstalled the other 4" duct.

    I also noticed the screw that holds the end plate to the furnace was also missing which was causing a lot of air loss around the panel and not much air going into the ducts.

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    So I repaired those two items. I then proceeded to check all the other vents and noticed there was very little airflow in the bathroom. Our register is at the floor right below the shower pan. I pulled the register off and pulled some of the 2" duct hose out. Probably a good 3 feet of hose came out. I then went to the other side of the wall and pulled on the hose connected to the furnace. To get any kinks out. I cut off about 24" of duct, reattached it to the heat register and reinstalled. That improved the airflow so there must have been a kink or bend in the duct.

    I would recommend if you have minimal airflow at a register to remove the register and see how much ducting you pull out. I am assuming they use standard lengths at the factory and if they have a 6 foot piece of duct but only need a 3 foot piece they use the 6 and and just shove the extra into cavity. This would cause too many bends or even kinks in the duct restricting airflow. There is not a lot of force from the furnace so any unnecessary bends or kinks would certainly restrict or decrease the amount of heated air coming out of the register.
    Mike & Lisa
    Central Florida
    2021 Imagine 2970RL
    1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

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