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  1. #1
    Left The Driveway
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    Question Level 5th wheel when towing?

    Everyone - thanks in advance for the replies and help - newbies when it comes to 5th wheels so we're still learning. My apologies in advance if I missed something searching for related posts.

    We think we're about to settle on a 2020 303rls. Will be towing with a 2016 F350 Platinum 4x4 CCSB (diesel). Pin weights and towing capacities are in range...what I didn't realize before I purchased the TV (used) was how high the truck is relative to fifth wheels. Top of rails (at the tailgate) to ground measures 60 1/4". (truck appears to be stock in the back and leveled in the front) The fifth wheel on the lot appears to be level and the front of the unit measures 61" to the ground (bottom of the front section where the kingpin is attached to the body).

    Still in process of selecting a hitch - would like to install a turnover ball and go with something that will attach to the ball so that when not towing I can clear the bed. I think between hitch setting and how high or low the kingpin is set I can achieve 6 inches of separation between the rails and the 5th wheel...but I'm not sure how level I will be. So to the questions:

    - How critical is it that the 5ver is level when towing? Out of level would seem to place more weight/strain on the rear axles and tires...is there a bandwidth of 'close enough' that deemed acceptable?
    - Thoughts or recommendations on hitch? I've been leaning toward either the AUH or B&W non-slider...
    - Has anyone lifted their 5ver to help compensate for that? Seems like LCI sells a lift kit that can add 2 inches.
    - options that I haven't thought of? Took a bath trading in the last truck and really don't want to swap for a dually...

    Thanks for the help!!!
    Spock and Lucy
    Future GD owners (hopefully)

  2. #2
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Personally, I wouldn't tow with the trailer more than two inches high at the front. An angle greater than that shifts weight from the front trailer axle to the rear and can wear suspension components and tires. You should get a couple of inches of sag with the rear of the truck when the trailer is fully loaded and on the hitch, though. Grand Design fifth wheels come with the axles already under the springs, so flipping them is not an option. If you increase the length of the spring hangers (without some serious fabrication and reinforcement), you'll end up with undue lateral stresses on the hangers (which are already a weak point). You won't know your situation for sure, though, until you load the trailer and put it on the truck.

    As for hitch options that use the turnover ball, there are basically three (and they all have their fans). The Andersen Ultimate and PullRite SuperLite both have "ball and socket" coupling at the top and come in models that attach to the truck via the gooseneck ball in the bed. The Reese Goosebox has also become very popular in recent years. Whatever you do, DO NOT install a true gooseneck adapter (the kind that's solid and goes straight down from the pin) on a fifth wheel RV. This is very back for the RV frame.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  3. #3
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    Rob,

    Thanks for the reply and insight...looking for all the input I can get! Definitely staying away from a true gooseneck, and lifting the trailer would (imo) only be an option if I can get GD and LCI to bless that in writing. Not sure what my other options are past that...

    Tim
    Spock and Lucy
    Future GD owners (hopefully)

  4. #4
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tkgolden89 View Post
    Rob,

    Thanks for the reply and insight...looking for all the input I can get! Definitely staying away from a true gooseneck, and lifting the trailer would (imo) only be an option if I can get GD and LCI to bless that in writing. Not sure what my other options are past that...

    Tim
    Over on the Ford truck forum (FTE/Ford Truck Enthusiasts), people have put shorter blocks on the rear axle of the truck. I don't have any personal experience with that.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  5. #5
    Seasoned Camper
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    We are towing a 2020 RLS 303 with a 2020 F350 Tremor (35” tires). The trailer looks real close to level when loaded and hooked up. I measured and I'm 1" high in the front. When the trailer tires need changing I'll change the tires to 235.85.16(factory 235.80.16). This should add 1/2" or so to the trailer height.
    Using the Andersen Ultimate with the ball set in the middle and have 7”+ clearance on the bed rails.
    2024 Ford F350 CCSB Lariat 7.3 4.30
    Sold- 2022 F150 Lariat 4x4
    Sold - 2020 Ford F350 Tremor 7.3 4.30
    Sold - 2020 GD Reflection 303RLS, 2019 GD Imagine 2250 RK

  6. #6
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    My set up is nose high- I haven’t actually measured it but it’s noticeable. I have my hitch at the lowest setting and have about 6” rail clearance. I believe the only option for a level ride for me is to lift the trailer or lower the truck- neither of which I’m in a big rush to do at the moment. One thing to keep in mind.... as viewed from the side, the front AC is about midway between the pin and wheels. So if I lift the trailer at the wheels 2” (for example), the high point on the trailer goes up by 1”. I’m at 13’5” now so maybe (???) I could be level with a height of 13’6”.
    2021 Solitude 310GK: Linen/DP windows/gen prep/slide toppers/king bed/EOH disc brakes/Cooper-H tires
    2019 F-350: Lariat/CC/LB/Diesel/DRW/4x4/Bakflip MX4/B&W 20K/AirLift 5000
    Other stuff: TST 507 TPMS/2x BB batteries/Victron BMV-712/Champion 3500 dual fuel gen/Garmin 780 GPS/22" Blackstone

  7. #7
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbsah View Post
    My set up is nose high- I haven’t actually measured it but it’s noticeable. I have my hitch at the lowest setting and have about 6” rail clearance. I believe the only option for a level ride for me is to lift the trailer or lower the truck- neither of which I’m in a big rush to do at the moment. One thing to keep in mind.... as viewed from the side, the front AC is about midway between the pin and wheels. So if I lift the trailer at the wheels 2” (for example), the high point on the trailer goes up by 1”. I’m at 13’5” now so maybe (???) I could be level with a height of 13’6”.
    And then sweat on any bridge with 13'6" clearance! Problem is, 13'6" is the limit before you need special permits because, as you might guess, 13'6" is the engineering spec for bridges on major roads. That said, almost all are way over that, and even those marked 13'6" actually are a little higher, but.. I'm not sure I want to go ripping under one marked at that height with my RV exactly at that height.

    The answer, sadly, lies with the truck makers; there's no reason for them to be as high as they are, I parked next to a ~2010 F350 dually the other day at Tractor Supply and I dwarfed it (in my 2019 450), I felt like I could have stepped out of my drivers door right into his truck bed. Yeah, looks cool I guess, and certainly makes the truck appear "large and in charge" but, then you run into all these problems. And, at least in my 450, there's no "block" to remove. The only thing I can see as a reasonable way to lower it is to go with custom springs and knock off some height (and do lord knows what to the towing capacity). No lowering shackles available either, because there's no room for them. Really stinks, it's "rock/hard place". Can't raise the trailer without going over the limit, can't lower the truck without major modifications. So silly.

  8. #8
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    I agree w/ all the comments above which is why I'll just stick w/ my setup as is and hope for the best. Around here, I'm more concerned w/ tree branches than bridges. Might consider a 2WD for my next truck. . . . maybe (I think those are lower, right?)
    2021 Solitude 310GK: Linen/DP windows/gen prep/slide toppers/king bed/EOH disc brakes/Cooper-H tires
    2019 F-350: Lariat/CC/LB/Diesel/DRW/4x4/Bakflip MX4/B&W 20K/AirLift 5000
    Other stuff: TST 507 TPMS/2x BB batteries/Victron BMV-712/Champion 3500 dual fuel gen/Garmin 780 GPS/22" Blackstone

  9. #9
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    The equalizers used in modern trailer suspensions give you some wiggle room and will redistribute the load equally to both axles when not totally level. Towing level is best overall from load distribution and aerodynamics. If you have to run out of level, you want it to be on the nose high side and not nose low. Given the "range" of the equalizers, that nose high shouldn't be much more than an inch. Nose low is a problem with bed rail clearance and the force transfer when braking (unless you've set your trailer brakes to tug on the TV).

    If you want to tow goose, I highly recommend the Reese Goosebox. VERY pleased with our Gen2 Goosebox, and I run the tall BW drop-in goose ball in my RAM factory puck setup. The pinbox wingsets and modern trailer heights work just fine with taller modern trucks and traditional 5er hitches or Goosebox. Camping trailers are now coming with 19.5" and 22.5" commercial trailer wheels even! It's the mismatch of new trucks, old campers that are problem.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  10. #10
    Big Traveler
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    If you want to tow goose, I highly recommend the Reese Goosebox. VERY pleased with our Gen2 Goosebox, and I run the tall BW drop-in goose ball in my RAM factory puck setup. The pinbox wingsets and modern trailer heights work just fine with taller modern trucks and traditional 5er hitches or Goosebox. Camping trailers are now coming with 19.5" and 22.5" commercial trailer wheels even! It's the mismatch of new trucks, old campers that are problem.
    Well, I'm sure it's worse with new trucks and old trailers. But I have a 2020 351 and a 2019 F450, using a Gen2 Goosebox and a tall BW, just like you. It works, but the clearance isn't as much as I'd like, I can hit if I get too far off level. I have about 5in; and I'm towing nose high. Also, Ford put a little "lip" on the tailgate at the VERY back of it (for aerodynamics, I'm sure) that stick up about 3/4 of an in, that's the "hit point", because it's as far back on the truck as it can be and the high point. I'd be much better without that there.

    That said; yes, my setup works, but it's not optimal. Because the 450 is stupid high. It's just silly how high it is, it's a 450 people! It's not for blasting dunes or serious offroad work, it's for hauling a big trailer, typically a 5er or GN. Why on earth would you set it so high?! If it was an offroad monster, OK, I get it, then it's high for a reason, but, on a truck designed and setup to tow?! It just doesn't make sense, it would be like putting drag radials on a Raptor; why would you put tires like that on a truck designed to go offroad??

    That said, my wife had an X5 diesel, 4WD, that came from the factory with 3 season track tires. So.. At least it's not just Ford that's building things that make no sense.

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