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  1. #11
    Rolling Along
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    I take the max PSI on the tire, multiply by the square root of Pi, and then multiply that by the GVWR divided by number of tires.

    Okay, not really. i just use max on sticker and tires for the same reasons others have already stated.

    Mike
    Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
    2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
    2019 Grand Design Reflection 367BHS

  2. #12
    Setting Up Camp RLK436's Avatar
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    I don't know what is so hard about inflating tires to the pressure listed on the trailer. I'm pretty sure the manufacturers don't just make those numbers up . . .
    2017 Grand Design Solitude 300GK
    2007 GMC 3500HD
    B&W Turnover/Companion

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by FirstAscent View Post
    I'm about to let 40psi out of my trailer tires!

    Personally, I've always followed Load and Inflation tables to match my actual vehicles weight and for MY tire size and load rating (E, F, etc)


    The sticker on my trailer suggest 125psi which is simply the max tire pressure but WELL over what is safely required for my load.

    My max trailer GVWR is 20,000lbs, Pretty sure I'll never be there, but that's the number, so even if I base my tire pressures off of 20k lbs, according to the Load and Inflation table, I'm perfectly safe at 80 psi. and again, this is for 20,000 lbs, so that already gives me a safety cushion since I'll be closer to 17,000. 80psi gives me

    For reference, I have a triple axle, each with 215/75R17.5 tires, inflation table attached.


    Anyways, just curious what YOU guys do. Do you follow the table for your weight/size? Do you follow the sticker no matter what it says? Do you follow what the tire shop says, or maybe just whatever the other guy on the forum uses? Do you pick a number out of a hat? haha, let me know!
    I use the tire manufacturer weight and inflation table. I have weight each axle and side to side. I actually run 10psi less on the passenger side because of the trailer layout.

  4. #14
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLK436 View Post
    I don't know what is so hard about inflating tires to the pressure listed on the trailer. I'm pretty sure the manufacturers don't just make those numbers up . . .
    I apologize in advance for disagreeing with you, but our doing what you just stated caused two blowouts on our first 5er and another on our Solitude along with a $1750 insurance claim. We've tried it both ways...Max cold tire pressure, and also starting a few pounds under. Pleas see the above results. I finally gave up and bought Carlysle Load range "G" 15-ply tires along as well as an EEZTire monitoring kit. What we found is that our RV tires gain 25-30 PSI while traveling. The tires in the sun run about 10 Lbs more than the shade side. The MAX pressure for these tires is 110 Lbs, which is the same max pressure for my rims. While traveling I try to keep them >105 and <110. It takes about an hour for them to settle down. I wish we had bought a monitoring system years ago!
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  5. #15
    Rolling Along
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    Tire Inflation tables? Thats as good a subject as any to over think. I'll play.

    "Inflate to the max pressure on the tire and you will have the greatest capacity, safety margin, etc." That is true, but there really is more to it. If a tire is over inflated, the size and shape of the contact patch changes and the tire behaves differently. If you look at the door sticker on passenger vehicles, the recommended tire pressure is often not even close to the max pressure of the tire. (My truck included). As a side note, when I had a SRW pickup, I would run max pressure in the rear when was loaded and less when I would be light for a long period. That changed the ride quality greatly.

    Ok back to trailers... My 300GK came with E rated tires and everything was at the max in terms of capacities and ratings. Now I have G rated tires that are capable of so much more. If I ran them at max pressure, it would be a much rougher ride on the trailer with no benefit.

    Now that we have real time monitoring, we see the sometimes drastic increase in pressure while driving. I was surprised at that myself and kind of wished for the comfortable ignorance I had before I was able to watch it. So that begs the question, what is the true max pressure that a tire can handle and why do we check the pressure cold?

    And of course we can't have a thread about trailer tires without talking about the blowouts and all the damage they cause. I have experience with that myself. These blowouts are caused by one thing. Heat and pressure are contributing factors, but they explode because they are junk tires. It'sas simple as that. (Insert your brand of China bomb here.)

    Well, I'm out of coffee so I'll answer the OP's question. I run my G rated tires between 95 and 100 psi (max 105). I did not get that from a table. It just seemed like a good compromise based on the discussion above. I also don't get too worried about setting the pressure too precisely any more because within ten miles, everything changes anyway.

  6. #16
    Site Sponsor jlspence99's Avatar
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    The max rated pressure for the tire is at cold, ie, ambient temperature. Tire manufacturers know and account for in the tire design that tire pressure increases with temperature. Owners don’t need to worry this.


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    Jeff & Susan
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    2019 Reflection 303RLS #123, TST 507 TPMS
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