Rewiring inverter to power microwave

[huntindog]

For some strange reason, when you opt for the 2000 inverter GD wires it to run the propane fridge, but not the microwave.

Since we boondock 100%, and like the clock on the microwave, plus it would be nice to use it for a few minutes without firing up the generator.... I resolved to fix this.
The hardest part was getting into the pass thru compartment to move the wiring. The microwave had green colored romex (one other item was green as well) so it stood out when tracing it in the bundle of wires. It was hooked up to a half sized breaker. I removed that breaker and its twin, and installed them in the sub panel located in the pantry. I removed the standard breaker for the fridge to make room, installing it where the two half sizes came out of the main breaker panel. I was then able to pull the green microwave romex out of the panel, and out of the taped up bundle behind the pass thru false wall. By freeing up as much as I could see of this wire, I had more than enough length to reach the subpanel. Then I just wired it to the same breaker that it was in before, only it now lives in the subpanel.

So now, the fridge and the microwave each have a half sized breaker in the inverter fed subpanel. I am leaving the fridge breaker off. But if for some strange reason I needed to power the propane fridge with the inverter, All I would need to do is turn off the microwave breaker and turn on the fridge breaker.... Probably could get away with leaving the fridge one on. I doubt it draws verymuch, and even if it did, the element would need to be on at the same time I was using the microwave... Worst thing that could happen is the inverter shuts down.

[jkwilson]

You’ll need to be very aware of how much you use the microwave on battery power since you will probably be drawing 120A from your battery(ies) when cooking and up to half an amp on standby. Obviously not a huge deal with a generator and decent battery capacity, but it’s among the biggest power consumers in your rig.

[huntindog]

You’ll need to be very aware of how much you use the microwave on battery power since you will probably be drawing 120A from your battery(ies) when cooking and up to half an amp on standby. Obviously not a huge deal with a generator and decent battery capacity, but it’s among the biggest power consumers in your rig.

I am not so sure about that. The microwave draws a lot of amps, but only for a few minutes a day. The fridge, which was what GD wired the inverter to, only draws around 30-36 amps, but it does that for several hours a day. At any rate, I am not too concerned, I have the Onan 5500 on board. I also carry at least one Honda Eu2000. I have the factory Solar, which will soon be upgraded from 300 to 550 watts, and 400 amps of Battle Born batteries on the way.

I have been 100% boondocking since 1994.

[offtohavasu]

I'm thinking about the same thing. Just swapping the fridge and micro circuits. It would be nice to heat something up real quick during a pitstop and not fire up the gen set. Who knows if I'll ever get to it though. LOL

[huntindog]

I'm thinking about the same thing. Just swapping the fridge and micro circuits. It would be nice to heat something up real quick during a pitstop and not fire up the gen set. Who knows if I'll ever get to it though. LOL

Not sure if your 381 is the same as my 398. On mine it was easier to remove a pair of half sized breakers from the regular panel, and swap them with the fridge full sized breaker in the inverter subpanel, leaving the fridge wiring in the subpanel, as it would not reach the regular panel. I actually like this setup better as it maintains the flexability to still run the fridge on AC if desired. (the full sixed breaker now feeds the circuit that was in the other half sized breaker.

You look like a pretty big guy... How big is your pass thru with the false wall? Mine was a tight fit for me.

[offtohavasu]

Yeah, I didn't think about adding the split breaker. The only thing is, I really don't want to accidentally leave the refer on AC mode with the inverter on if I don't want to be on AC.

I've been in and out of the passthrough a couple of times with no issue. This winter I'm going to the modification to the wall to make it straight instead of angled.

[huntindog]

Yeah, I didn't think about adding the split breaker. The only thing is, I really don't want to accidentally leave the refer on AC mode with the inverter on if I don't want to be on AC.

Two ways to handle it. I rarely if ever would want my fridge on AC. For now I am just leaving the fridge breaker off... If that doesn't work for me, I will just unplug it outside behind the access panel.

[cookinwitdiesel]

The absorption fridges (propane/electric hybrid) can draw a surprisingly high amount of electrical power (they are VERY inefficient with electricity, heard 800+ watts). If boondocking, they are best suited to propane operation unless you have a substantial battery/solar setup.

[jkwilson]

The absorption fridges (propane/electric hybrid) can draw a surprisingly high amount of electrical power (they are VERY inefficient with electricity, heard 800+ watts). If boondocking, they are best suited to propane operation unless you have a substantial battery/solar setup.

Most are in the 300W range.

[huntindog]

Most are in the 300W range.

From what I see in the manual, mine is about 3 amps on AC....
BUT, and it is a big but for a reason, I will wager that it runs a lot. So the overall hit on the batteries would be large.