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  1. #21
    Seasoned Camper more tired since retired's Avatar
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    Oct 2019
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    southern Georgia, where gnats rule the world
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    Just an FYI, the socket size needed is 1" and pickup an 18 or 24 inch breaker bar at Harbor Freight.
    2020 F-250 XLT SuperCrew 7.3L Blue Ox SwayPro, 2020 Imagine 2600RB,
    1600W Solar w/525AH LiFePO4, Victron 3000W, Road Armor w/wet bolt suspension, VisionWork Camera System, Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G Mobile Router,MicroAir EasyStart
    Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ FMCA#489460 Escapees SKP#166379

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper MachWun's Avatar
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    Jul 2020
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    Detroit, MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by more tired since retired View Post
    pickup an 18 or 24 inch breaker bar at Harbor Freight.
    I prefer the gas pipe because it gives me a bit more to grab and I can use it for my 3/8 drive, 1/2 drive, ...and other tools where I need the leverage.

  3. #23
    Setting Up Camp
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    Sep 2020
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    Virginia
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    I am Johnny come lately on this post. I had the same issue with my 1/2 ton chevy. The ball needs to be 1-1.5 inches about the trailer coupler. Blue Ox you tube videos are simple and exact. If you have a lot of sag (pre distribution bar) people have raised their ball one notch up, not lower. Now, I ended up messing with ours (different links) and determined (basic math, not a Cats Scale) that I was over payload, but then again with truck and trailer empty, it was bad too. You can max payload fast, even with a newer model 1/2 ton (2016). Trailer suck and sway at 60/65 now matter what. We upgraded to a 3/4 ton and all went away. I am unsure why. Ghosts of GM wanting money. But as a few member mentioned, raising the ball 1-1.5 inches is the spec per Blue Ox. Good luck and if you found an alternative solution which works.... Why not!

  4. #24
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Weatherford Texas
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    OK, hopefully this will end the misinformation about where the ball height should be regarding this Blue Ox. Taken directly from their website on printed instructions. This step is AFTER you find level for your truck.....

    "11. If the trailer is not level, determine how much and in which direction. Each hole raises or lowers the front of the trailer 1-1/2”. Level the trailer by:

    A. Support the weight of the trailer tongue with the trailer jack.
    B. Unlock the rotating latch bracket and release the spring bar tension on the chains.
    C. Uncouple the trailer.
    D. Remove the 3/4” fasteners from the hitch head.
    E. Move the hitch head on the receiver hitch mount either up to raise the front of the trailer or down to lower the trailer.
    F. Replace the 3/4” fasteners in the appropriate holes and torque to 257 ft/lbs.G. Couple the trailer to the hitch.
    H. Support the weight of the trailer tongue with the trailer jack.
    I. Reapply the spring bar tension on the chains by using the wrench to rotate the rotating latches in a clockwise direction until the lock pin engages in the lock pin hole.
    J. Lower the front of the trailer allowing the tongue weight of the trailer to be supported by the towing vehicle.
    Repeat the above steps until the trailer is level."

    This is only to level your trailer, I'm not getting into if your too heavy. That's for conversation on one of the numerous other threads about being over weight.
    2019 Momentum 351M, Disc Brakes, Roadmaster Slipper Springs/shocks
    2018 F-450 Ruby Red
    B&W 25K Hitch
    2015 H-D Road Glide CVO / B&W Biker Bar

  5. #25
    Seasoned Camper Chewwi's Avatar
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    Jun 2020
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    South Carolina
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    Just reread the Blue Ox instruction again. When our dealer initially set up the hitch with the tow vehicle and the RV, the verbal direction was to CATCH the 9th link in the latch and rotate the latch counter clockwise. I was having a hard time catching the 9th link with the latch, sometimes requiring me to use the leveling jack to slightly lift the rear end of the truck to change the angle.

    After rereading the Blue Ox instructions for perhaps the 10th time, I realize the instruction actually state “. . . Insert the 9th chain link from the top (opposite the u-bolt) INTO THE SLOT of the latch.” Inserting the 9th link into the slot on the latch is actually catching the 10th link, not the 9th. This change has solved my problem in hitching and unhitching. Don’t see much difference in the trailer or tow vehicle attitude either both are pretty level.

    Don’t know if anyone else had the same confusion I had or not. Just posting it here in case someone else has similar issue.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Setting Up Camp
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    I use the leveling jack to lift the rear of the truck to make the locking and unlocking easier. I use the 10th link and slide the 10th link into the slot. With the jack extended a certain amount, there is little effort to lock and unlock the load bars. I use a socket and breaker bar from Harbor Freight versus the pathetic "wrench" Blue Ox provides.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    ____________________________________
    Paul Kuda
    2020 Chevy 2500HD - Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas, Standard Bed
    2021 GD Imagine 2800BH]

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