Winterization 308bhts

[crmiller03]

Hi All,

Getting ready to winterize my 2017 Gd reflection 308bhts for the first time ( just bought this year). I have watched plenty of videos and read the directions in owners manual at least 10 times. However still have a few questions looking for help on.

1) I can’t seem to understand the point of blowing air through the system then running anti freeze versus just running anti freeze till you see it coming from each faucet (both hot and cold). My thought process - if you see nothing but pure anti freeze then theirs more then enough to protect even if a minor residual water exists. For reference I live in Seattle,wa and only planned to do air as it’s uncommon to be below freezing for more then a week span. Exception 2008 and 2018 for those that live here

2) In literally every video I have seen they state to drain the hot water heater, then put plug back in or leave out (thoughts on that?) but then to bypass the hot water heater tank prior to blowing air. But the GD manual say nothing about bypassing the HW tank. Is that because the nautilus settings do it? If so what is the proper setting on natilus if only doing air? I’m guessing the natilus does it as video says not to get antifreeze in the Hw tank, but nothing in manual. Also nothing about doing air in manual, outside of the black tank flush.

3) If doing air (30 - 40psi) do you leave all valves open or start the air and then go and open each individually until you get nothing but air and then move to next one. I ask as I have seen conflicting information, but I can’t understand how enough pressure would get to each faucet outlet if they were all open at the same time. But don’t want to build up to much pressure in the system and blow one the connections or lines of moving from 1 to next could create that?

Thanks in advance to all for input/help

[WhittleBurner]

Hi All,

Getting ready to winterize my 2017 Gd reflection 308bhts for the first time ( just bought this year). I have watched plenty of videos and read the directions in owners manual at least 10 times. However still have a few questions looking for help on.

1) I can’t seem to understand the point of blowing air through the system then running anti freeze versus just running anti freeze till you see it coming from each faucet (both hot and cold). My thought process - if you see nothing but pure anti freeze then theirs more then enough to protect even if a minor residual water exists. For reference I live in Seattle,wa and only planned to do air as it’s uncommon to be below freezing for more then a week span. Exception 2008 and 2018 for those that live here

2) In literally every video I have seen they state to drain the hot water heater, then put plug back in or leave out (thoughts on that?) but then to bypass the hot water heater tank prior to blowing air. But the GD manual say nothing about bypassing the HW tank. Is that because the nautilus settings do it? If so what is the proper setting on natilus if only doing air? I’m guessing the natilus does it as video says not to get antifreeze in the Hw tank, but nothing in manual. Also nothing about doing air in manual, outside of the black tank flush.

3) If doing air (30 - 40psi) do you leave all valves open or start the air and then go and open each individually until you get nothing but air and then move to next one. I ask as I have seen conflicting information, but I can’t understand how enough pressure would get to each faucet outlet if they were all open at the same time. But don’t want to build up to much pressure in the system and blow one the connections or lines of moving from 1 to next could create that?

Thanks in advance to all for input/help

It is not necessary to use air. If using antifreeze it just adds another step to what needs to be done. We have winterized many years without using air without having any problems. Draining the hot water heater wouldn't hurt as you will want to start out with fresh water in the spring anyway. We had asked the Atwood repair person at one of the main rally's if the water heater should be drained. He said you don't need to so long as it isn't full. There is so much room in the tank that when the water freeze's it will have plenty of room to expand without hurting anything.

[geotex1]

The reason for the recommendation to blow out is the use less antifreeze. If water is still in the system when you add abrufreeze, you dilute the antifreeze. With dilution, the freeze point of the antifreeze raises. If you use you low point drains properly, you're draining the majority of the water by siphon action and are good to go. The Nautilus Winterization settings bypass the HWH. My HWH drains with proper use of the low point drains, but I still pull the plug to be sure, check the condition of the anode rod as mine has one, and then reinstall the plug.

If you choose to blow out, you likely will need to work a valve st a tune because most folks don't have an 80+ gallon compressor at home to be able to maintain flow volume with the pressure.

[yobigal]

My HWH drains with proper use of the low point drains.

I tried to do this and my HWH did not drain. I had to pull the plug in order to empty.

[jguzek]

Hi All,

Getting ready to winterize my 2017 Gd reflection 308bhts for the first time ( just bought this year). I have watched plenty of videos and read the directions in owners manual at least 10 times. However still have a few questions looking for help on.

1) I can’t seem to understand the point of blowing air through the system then running anti freeze versus just running anti freeze till you see it coming from each faucet (both hot and cold). My thought process - if you see nothing but pure anti freeze then theirs more then enough to protect even if a minor residual water exists. For reference I live in Seattle,wa and only planned to do air as it’s uncommon to be below freezing for more then a week span. Exception 2008 and 2018 for those that live here

2) In literally every video I have seen they state to drain the hot water heater, then put plug back in or leave out (thoughts on that?) but then to bypass the hot water heater tank prior to blowing air. But the GD manual say nothing about bypassing the HW tank. Is that because the nautilus settings do it? If so what is the proper setting on natilus if only doing air? I’m guessing the natilus does it as video says not to get antifreeze in the Hw tank, but nothing in manual. Also nothing about doing air in manual, outside of the black tank flush.

3) If doing air (30 - 40psi) do you leave all valves open or start the air and then go and open each individually until you get nothing but air and then move to next one. I ask as I have seen conflicting information, but I can’t understand how enough pressure would get to each faucet outlet if they were all open at the same time. But don’t want to build up to much pressure in the system and blow one the connections or lines of moving from 1 to next could create that?

Thanks in advance to all for input/help

CRMiller,
Welcome to the 308 Club. I also have a 2017 308BHTS. Similar to WA, our MD winters are not bad. A few below freezing days. I've been using the air-only method for several years.

Here are my general steps:
1. Drain fresh water tank
2. Run pump and open all faucets/toilet individually for a few seconds to expel water, then turn off pump.
3. Set Nautilus Handles to POWERFILL. See here for instructions.http://www.bandbmolders.com/index.php/p1/
4. Open faucets and low point drains (The 308 has 2 sets). For ease of use, I replaced my low point drain plugs with valves last years. https://www.amazon.com/Industries-10...language=en_US
5. Remove cap to drain hot water heater. (Nautilus system automatically bypasses hot water heater). I use a wand to flush out any sedatives. Leave the cap off to allow system to completely dry.
6. Once water has drained, turn RED, BLUE, GREEN and WHITE handles so they are a 45 degree angle.
7. Using City Water inlet blow plumbing line with 30-40 psi. I usually close the low point drains and open each hot/cold faucet individually starting with the farthest fixture and then work my way back to the low point drains. I will repeat the process a few times to ensure all the water is removed. Don’t forget the shower hose/shower head. This adapter works great for me: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Winterize-RV-Motorhome-Boat-Camper-Travel-Trailer-Air-Compressor-Quick-Connect-Plug-To-Male-Garden-Hose-Faucet-Blow-Out-Adapter-Valve-Lead-Free-Brass/352192371?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101002 398&&adid=22222222227279558039&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl 3=338627830729&wl4=aud-393207457166la-659717330106&wl5=9007852&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl 10=131909415&wl11=online&wl12=352192371&veh=sem&gc lid=Cj0KCQjw28T8BRDbARIsAEOMBcwjtj0NBW-_FwnLnHe4OTxjj7tmqrceC4AE7VQefNGGW0w-CXejR2caAvU7EALw_wcB
8. Dump and flush black and gray tanks. Blow out black tank flush line with air if needed. I leave my grey tank values open over the winter. Black tank closed.
9. Pour Antifreeze in all drains and toilet bowl
10. This last step might be overkill, but I know some folks will also disconnect the water pump to ensure no water is trapped. I did this in my old RV, but I haven’t done so in my 308.

Hope this helps.

[crmiller03]

CRMiller,
Welcome to the 308 Club. I also have a 2017 308BHTS. Similar to WA, our MD winters are not bad. A few below freezing days. I've been using the air-only method for several years.

Here are my general steps:
1. Drain fresh water tank
2. Run pump and open all faucets/toilet individually for a few seconds to expel water, then turn off pump.
3. Set Nautilus Handles to POWERFILL. See here for instructions.http://www.bandbmolders.com/index.php/p1/
4. Open faucets and low point drains (The 308 has 2 sets). For ease of use, I replaced my low point drain plugs with valves last years. https://www.amazon.com/Industries-10...language=en_US
5. Remove cap to drain hot water heater. (Nautilus system automatically bypasses hot water heater). I use a wand to flush out any sedatives. Leave the cap off to allow system to completely dry.
6. Once water has drained, turn RED, BLUE, GREEN and WHITE handles so they are a 45 degree angle.
7. Using City Water inlet blow plumbing line with 30-40 psi. I usually close the low point drains and open each hot/cold faucet individually starting with the farthest fixture and then work my way back to the low point drains. I will repeat the process a few times to ensure all the water is removed. Don’t forget the shower hose/shower head. This adapter works great for me: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Winterize-RV-Motorhome-Boat-Camper-Travel-Trailer-Air-Compressor-Quick-Connect-Plug-To-Male-Garden-Hose-Faucet-Blow-Out-Adapter-Valve-Lead-Free-Brass/352192371?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101002 398&&adid=22222222227279558039&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl 3=338627830729&wl4=aud-393207457166la-659717330106&wl5=9007852&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl 10=131909415&wl11=online&wl12=352192371&veh=sem&gc lid=Cj0KCQjw28T8BRDbARIsAEOMBcwjtj0NBW-_FwnLnHe4OTxjj7tmqrceC4AE7VQefNGGW0w-CXejR2caAvU7EALw_wcB
8. Dump and flush black and gray tanks. Blow out black tank flush line with air if needed. I leave my grey tank values open over the winter. Black tank closed.
9. Pour Antifreeze in all drains and toilet bowl
10. This last step might be overkill, but I know some folks will also disconnect the water pump to ensure no water is trapped. I did this in my old RV, but I haven’t done so in my 308.

Hope this helps.

Hi Jguzek - Thanks for the details. Few follow up questions:
1) If i never used the fresh water, is your step 2 needed? I believe the pump on these only drives water from fresh water correct?
2) Between step 4 and step 7, I'm assuming you went back in and closed all the faucets correct?
3) why leave the gray tanks open during winter?
4) Anti freeze in toilet, do you also pour or flush a bit down into the black tank? Also I heard the antifreeze will stain, but have also seen that many people leave some in the toilet above the seal to keep the seal fresh. It won't stain the toilet because it's porcelain versus plastic?
5) I had also hear that leaving the roof vents open a bit is a good idea...any thoughts on that?

[Timmer]

We only use antifreeze, we don't blow it out. We do use a fair amount of antifreeze, but it's inexpensive. We test each faucet and lowpoint twice, making sure it's a good solid pink, not diluted. One thing we did this year that we didn't last year was to also run it through the tank flush. This was easily overlooked, at least by us.

[jguzek]

Hi Jguzek - Thanks for the details. Few follow up questions:
1) If i never used the fresh water, is your step 2 needed? I believe the pump on these only drives water from fresh water correct?
2) Between step 4 and step 7, I'm assuming you went back in and closed all the faucets correct?
3) why leave the gray tanks open during winter?
4) Anti freeze in toilet, do you also pour or flush a bit down into the black tank? Also I heard the antifreeze will stain, but have also seen that many people leave some in the toilet above the seal to keep the seal fresh. It won't stain the toilet because it's porcelain versus plastic?
5) I had also hear that leaving the roof vents open a bit is a good idea...any thoughts on that?

Hi crmiller03 - follow up on your questions:
1) If i never used the fresh water, is your step 2 needed? I believe the pump on these only drives water from fresh water correct? You can skip this.
2) Between step 4 and step 7, I'm assuming you went back in and closed all the faucets correct? Correct
3) why leave the gray tanks open during winter? Leaves the seals in the relaxed position over the winter avoiding stiction come spring. You can leave the black tank open as well, but I usually close mine. I also run a small dehumidifier that drains into the kitchen sink.
4) Anti freeze in toilet, do you also pour or flush a bit down into the black tank? Also I heard the antifreeze will stain, but have also seen that many people leave some in the toilet above the seal to keep the seal fresh. It won't stain the toilet because it's porcelain versus plastic? I don't flush it, just leave enough in the bowl to protect the seal, 1/2" or so. I've never had a problem with staining.
5) I had also hear that leaving the roof vents open a bit is a good idea...any thoughts on that? I can't comment on that one. If your concerned about moisture/humidity you can place 1 or 2 moisture absorbers inside. I'm able to store my 308 at home, so I always have shore power to run a small dehumidifier

I should also mention, I disconnect and store my trailer battery in the house.