Winterizing Issue

[yobigal]

I blew out all my lines and everything seemed good.
I pumped antifreeze in and winterized the 2 outside ports, toilet, ice maker, and washer.
When trying to run antifreeze thru the kitchen and bathroom sink as well as the shower I get nothing.
I drained the antifreeze thru the low point drains and re-hooked up the air to blow out lines again and now I get very little air out of bathroom sink and nothing thru the shower or kitchen sink.

I did leave the screen in so my guess if something is blocking some of the lines it would have come from a broken check valve or piece of the nautilus valves.
During pumping antifreeze in or running the air when all spigots closed the pumps builds up pressure and then the water pump or air compressor stops which makes me believe I don't have a leak.

In order to disconnect water lines off the tees do I have to cut the water hoses or can the clamps be removed so I can just slide off hose?
Also where would I find new clamps and tool to put hoses back on?

[Sickday]

I blew out all my lines and everything seemed good.
I pumped antifreeze in and winterized the 2 outside ports, toilet, ice maker, and washer.
When trying to run antifreeze thru the kitchen and bathroom sink as well as the shower I get nothing.
I drained the antifreeze thru the low point drains and re-hooked up the air to blow out lines again and now I get very little air out of bathroom sink and nothing thru the shower or kitchen sink.

I did leave the screen in so my guess if something is blocking some of the lines it would have come from a broken check valve or piece of the nautilus valves.
During pumping antifreeze in or running the air when all spigots closed the pumps builds up pressure and then the water pump or air compressor stops which makes me believe I don't have a leak.

In order to disconnect water lines off the tees do I have to cut the water hoses or can the clamps be removed so I can just slide off hose?
Also where would I find new clamps and tool to put hoses back on?

Just a guess here but try flipping the screen around so it will actually depress the check valve when trying to pull the antifreeze in.. I have seen where the check valve will get a little stuck and the pump can not overcome the valve.. Just an idea. I always turn the screen around when winterizing and sanitizing my systems.

[boyscout]

I blew out all my lines and everything seemed good.
I pumped antifreeze in and winterized the 2 outside ports, toilet, ice maker, and washer.
When trying to run antifreeze thru the kitchen and bathroom sink as well as the shower I get nothing.
I drained the antifreeze thru the low point drains and re-hooked up the air to blow out lines again and now I get very little air out of bathroom sink and nothing thru the shower or kitchen sink.

I did leave the screen in so my guess if something is blocking some of the lines it would have come from a broken check valve or piece of the nautilus valves.
During pumping antifreeze in or running the air when all spigots closed the pumps builds up pressure and then the water pump or air compressor stops which makes me believe I don't have a leak.

In order to disconnect water lines off the tees do I have to cut the water hoses or can the clamps be removed so I can just slide off hose?
Also where would I find new clamps and tool to put hoses back on?

I'm mostly responding to your questions about tools and working on the plumbing lines. Your issue has me flummoxed; the only thing I can think of is an issue with the Nautilus panel. Have you double-checked to ensure that all levers are fully in their correct Winterize position? If so, release pressure (using low-point drains I guess since the pressure won't come out of your faucets... very strange). Then try gently rotating the Nautilus levers back and forth through their full travel range, feeling for any undue resistance in the valves that may indicate problems with the seals in them. Then carefully return them to Winterize before trying again.

I can answer your other questions. The best way to remove the clamps on your plumbing lines is to cut them off using cutting pliers. A small pair of END-cutters are best, like these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-M...4001/305530659

They are used to grab the wrapped end of the clamp and peel it back until the clamp lets go. Try to get a pair with a very flat end - not beveled into the cutting edge - to make that initial capture of the end easiest.

The plumbing is based on a system called PEX, for which virtually any hardware store has parts. Your plumbing is 1/2" PEX. Most places selling the clamps will also sell tools for installing them.

While in theory you can remove the hose from the fittings after removing the clamp, in practice it's not only very difficult but also reduces the chance you'll get a good seal when you put the connection back together. It's pretty much always best to cut the hose as close as possible to the fitting. If that's going to make your line too short, put in another line.

One more thing: Grand Design (and other manufacturers) use a lot of soft braided hose that is NOT PEX, and they use it with PEX fittings that are smaller than the soft hose. GD does this because it makes plumbing installation easier for them than more cutting and fittings of all-PEX would require. However that soft hose is infamous for leaking and even bursting, especially on hot water lines.

Two points arise from that. One is that when assembling these soft-hose to PEX fitting connections it's better to use a hose clamp firmly screwed than to replace the quick and inexpensive PEX clamp that GD has used. The PEX clamp properly installed is too tight on the soft hose, which is part of the eventual failure of the connection. The second point is the suggestion that, if you're disassembling plumbing anyway, consider replacing at least the lines you're working on with proper PEX lines instead of reassembling the soft hose. PEX pipe is also available nearly everywhere.

Good luck, and please report back about how this gets resolved.

[yobigal]

I found out the issue.

Somehow small amounts of dirt got in the water line and clogged up the screens in the kitchen and bathroom sink as well as the shower.
I took them apart and cleaned the screens and now everything is winterized.

Question for those that have a washer. It's hard to get to the water lines so I was wondering if anybody knows if there is a screen in that line?
Also how about the ice maker in frig and toilet? As I mentioned above those items had no troubles so I'm not thinking they do.

[Calbar]

I blew out all my lines and everything seemed good.
I pumped antifreeze in and winterized the 2 outside ports, toilet, ice maker, and washer.
When trying to run antifreeze thru the kitchen and bathroom sink as well as the shower I get nothing.
I drained the antifreeze thru the low point drains and re-hooked up the air to blow out lines again and now I get very little air out of bathroom sink and nothing thru the shower or kitchen sink.

I did leave the screen in so my guess if something is blocking some of the lines it would have come from a broken check valve or piece of the nautilus valves.
During pumping antifreeze in or running the air when all spigots closed the pumps builds up pressure and then the water pump or air compressor stops which makes me believe I don't have a leak.

In order to disconnect water lines off the tees do I have to cut the water hoses or can the clamps be removed so I can just slide off hose?
Also where would I find new clamps and tool to put hoses back on?

Before I would start taking the plumbing apart I would take off the aerators from the taps and clean them out. There is also a flow restritor in the shower faucet. Clean any hard water deposits or other debris that might be there now. Very unlikely that it is anything else but this is a good place to start. It is likely that draining the water and blowing out the lines has plugged the aerators. I have had debris and hard water deposits plug mine from time to time.

Rob

You beat me to it and sorted it out.