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  1. #11
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Just curious why you drain your water heater that frequently? Also, Would it be possible to just open your warm water low drain point valve. I think that might drain the water heater. Not sure.
    I do so since it is so quick and easy to do as a proactive measure to prevent any issues with situations where we may have had poor water quality. We mostly dry camp at our state parks and have had a couple parks with less than top tier water. Also over the decades as we traveled around the country in our various mini motor homes, we did run into less than quality water more often than not. We can get it out of the lines fairly easily so it is not just "sitting" there using the low point drains with all cold and hot faucets open. Just sitting static in the water heater for a few to several weeks before we use the RV again, could and has lead to stinky water along with the need to sanitize at times as well.

    Good point on using the hot water line low point drain to release the water at least in the lines and more thoroughly with all the faucets open. The problem with this for the water heater is that the hot water line comes out of the top of the water heater thus it will not drain the water heater. However, as the cold line enters at the bottom of the water heater, your thinking may work opening the cold low point drain. I will have to try this next season. Possibly someone who has done this can confirm.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
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  2. #12
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canyonlight View Post
    I do so since it is so quick and easy to do as a proactive measure to prevent any issues with situations where we may have had poor water quality. We mostly dry camp at our state parks and have had a couple parks with less than top tier water. Also over the decades as we traveled around the country in our various mini motor homes, we did run into less than quality water more often than not. We can get it out of the lines fairly easily so it is not just "sitting" there using the low point drains with all cold and hot faucets open. Just sitting static in the water heater for a few to several weeks before we use the RV again, could and has lead to stinky water along with the need to sanitize at times as well.

    Good point on using the hot water line low point drain to release the water at least in the lines and more thoroughly with all the faucets open. The problem with this for the water heater is that the hot water line comes out of the top of the water heater thus it will not drain the water heater. However, as the cold line enters at the bottom of the water heater, your thinking may work opening the cold low point drain. I will have to try this next season. Possibly someone who has done this can confirm.

    Dan
    Not sure but don't think that opening cold low point drain will drain water heater. I think there is a built in check valve in heater to prevent back flow. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
    2020 Reflection 273MK

  3. #13
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Not sure but don't think that opening cold low point drain will drain water heater. I think there is a built in check valve in heater to prevent back flow. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
    I think your are correct on the check valve item. I think older GDRVs (like ours) with the Atwood Water Heaters do not have one. I will need to look into that.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  4. #14
    Rolling Along Houndbb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canyonlight View Post
    I think your are correct on the check valve item. I think older GDRVs (like ours) with the Atwood Water Heaters do not have one. I will need to look into that.

    Dan
    IF you were about to do the vinegar flush on a trailer you might test whether the low drains empty the heater. Just pour the vinegar/water in through the plug hole instead of siphoning through the pump. After the “soak” time (that supposedly dissolves sediment), open the low drains before you open any faucets or flush the system. The vinegar smell would not dissipate overnight, so if it’s emptying out the low points, you’ll smell it. If not, you’ve only drained the lines.
    Bruce and Nancy
    2018 Imagine 2150rb
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  5. #15
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    I removed the plug and threw it away. I bought 2 feet of rubber heater hose, 1/2" PVC elbows, hose clamps and a pvc valve. So when I want to drain, I open the door, turn the valve and watch. I worried about the heater hose melting, fitting giving out etc. but after a few years there are no more worries, it just works.

    Quote Originally Posted by DJonesteam View Post
    I’m having a difficult time loosening the Teflon heater drain plug on my water heater. A wrench doesn’t grip the plastic plug properly due to the access and location and I can’t get a socket to seat on the plug due to the angle. Is there a special tool to use on the drain plug by chance?


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  6. #16
    Site Team Ynot4me2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wudwork View Post
    I removed the plug and threw it away. I bought 2 feet of rubber heater hose, 1/2" PVC elbows, hose clamps and a pvc valve. So when I want to drain, I open the door, turn the valve and watch. I worried about the heater hose melting, fitting giving out etc. but after a few years there are no more worries, it just works.
    I'd be interested in pictures as I've been debating doing something similar.

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    Steph & Lise
    2019 F150 Lariat 2.7 EB
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  7. #17
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wudwork View Post
    I removed the plug and threw it away. I bought 2 feet of rubber heater hose, 1/2" PVC elbows, hose clamps and a pvc valve. So when I want to drain, I open the door, turn the valve and watch. I worried about the heater hose melting, fitting giving out etc. but after a few years there are no more worries, it just works.
    A few posters have done that over the years and has worked well as a good option. I have thought about doing so as well......maybe next year !

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  8. #18
    Fireside Member
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    I just went on Amazon and ordered a RV hot water heater drain plug wrench.
    Every thing is nicer in Niceville.
    2019 Reflections 29RS
    2016 GMC Denali Hd
    B&W slider hitch
    Mor-ryde rubber pin box

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper Chewwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randall lee View Post
    I just went on Amazon and ordered a RV hot water heater drain plug wrench.
    I bought one too. Wouldn’t work due to sheet metal parts in the way. A 3/8” drive 15/16” socket (not a deep wall socket) and 6” wobble extension work like a charm though.


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  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper Rovers's Avatar
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    A nylon nipple, a 12 inch steel braided toilet supply hose and a ball valve on the end fixes the issue with draining the hot water heater. After every trip it's as simple as opening the door to the heater, lifting the pressure relief valve and opening the valve on the end of the steel hose. Drains in around 5 to 10 minutes and no worries about stinky water for the next trip. Word of caution: Be sure to fill the hot water tank before turning on the heat or the element will burn out.

    Works for us!


    Bob
    2019 Imagine 2400BH
    Progressive Industries Hardwired EMS, RV Airflow, MicroAir EasyStart, MaxxAir Fan
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